Dieselfuture

You don't for an average Joe, I still feel like my truck has half a million miles on it, considering all the things I had to repair already and I'm only up to 165 K now. I know one thing thing when I had my head off, the cylinders did not look as healthy as yours or Mike's and you guys have triple the miles I do. So maybe I do have @cajflynnold motor

That is true life is full of choices, and we all do our best to make the right ones. What works for one might not work for the other you just never know. Used to know a guy that didn't believe in changing oil, he went like 60 k or more before he finally did change it, and it was only because I was over at his place and we were both bored at the time. Some just get away with whatever and others could do everything by the book and still have problems.

Not if you're filling the filter through center hole, center hole is where fuel comes out to go to injection pump. You'd have to screw piece of pipe to keep fuel from going in center and prefill through smaller holes. Then you have to be sure pipe you screwing in isn't dropping shavings down the hole, and I don't trust any filters that don't come with plastic cover over the holes. Then it's a crapshoot either way. It's sad when first thing you do is blow garbage out of the hole. That goes for more expensive K&N filters, I seen cardboard and junk on the threads and down inside the filter. Best is to put filter on then prime the system with electric pump, even if the fuel looks clean the damaging particles cannot be seen with naked eye. So yeah most of us are getting lucky one way or another. I quit changing filters at mileage interval, I look for pressure drop before I touch them now. I think changing them too often will bring more chances in putting particles in fuel system and causing more harm then good. The least amount of times I open fuel system the better. This is GMO.

Are you saying it's becoming illegal to put your own fuel in

Well I wasn't patient enough to find out, so I ordered a conversion kit to cp3 from a Romanian guy. I'm planning on keeping it for a long time and sound like cp4 will fail eventually, where cp3 is tested and proven. It's a smaller version than on big motors, I guess in Europe thy used mini cp3 on a lot of cars. Guess it's time to learn common rail. I'm opposite, had bad experience with air dog, basically told me sorry, but we can sell you a new one. So I went with fass. But like I mentioned before, if fass goes out and I won't get free replacement, I'll be going all mechanical route.

@IBMobile is the guru on this stuff, got me going on my ac on demand switch, works great, thank you.

That's how Mike makes his extra money, he got that area booby traped with emps that takes out random stuff on dodges. The bolt down the intake is just an excuse to have more beer while watching him work.

Them things are bad this year, angry.

Funny you mention cp4, I just got a vw for a daily commute and now debating if I want to swap it out to cp3 before it's too late lol, what a joke. Just like anything else we need to tear everything apart and make it our way before it will last. As of fass mine is doing fine for now, if it craps, I'm going mechanical, I'm done with electric shavers. Although most problems usually associated with return ball and spring and with new flow through valve it should be a better design, maybe be not.

So I got a 2013 tdi jetta sportwagen, although door says 9/12 hope it's OK year. I've been reading a ton on these, it's a new world for me. Crap is adding up quick, this thing is almost more anal than my truck. Finding out now that these have something like cp4 high pressure pump and they are a gamble. Conversion kit to cp3 is a small fortune but probably worth it. Though I'd get a 2micron kit with his glass media filter, but can't find any now, seems to be discontinued and no one knows any better. At this point thinking I should of kept buying oil for my Honda lol, now got a loan and a headache. Where did you go @Wild and Free I have some questions for you

I changed mine and it's still leaking, checked the vent, all good. Been leaking for like 5 years now, next step is new bushing and seal again. If that doesn't fix it I'll be getting new drive shaft built with bigger u joints, will have to get new pinion yoke. Good luck with yours.

Been on the hunt for a 13-14 tdi, probably a sportswagon with a full roof and of course a 6 speed manual. Man they don't give them away like anything else that makes sense. I've been looking for something with smaller diesel that sounds good and great on mpg, I think this will be it. Thanks for the thread, it got me in the right direction.

Something isn't powering you're vp, try a hot wire test for vp see if it runs then. You can try to hot wire a starter and if it turns over but doesn't start then vp isn't getting juice be my guess, idk

I only got one set of sensors ha ha, learning from the best.

That's awesome, I'm just now catching up in the game. Debating which year to purchase. Sounds like 02-03 with a manual was the king for longevity and simplicity, but they are hard to find with lower miles if you can find them at all. I'm finding a lot of them in 2010-15 range for under 10k with average 50k +- still need to do more research, if pros and cons four different years. How many miles you got on the thing by now, how's it been doing?

They probably haven't read the article yet so I doubt they know

Wonder if they addressed RF noise

On a passat or jetta maybe

Very funny, no smart car for me, I want to leave if a Dodge owner can't see me in one of those is all over

Thinking about maybe buying a new commute vehicle, was looking at some Volkswagens. Need to know what to watch out for. I'd like to get 50-60mpg and have a diesel, preferably a stick shift like this one. https://quadcities.craigslist.org/cto/d/bettendorf-2012-vw-golf-tdi/6910549713.html Just don't know what to look for on these. Or even a Volvo or Mercedes something older dependable.

It's been a year or so as when I sent them used ECM I told them it's a take out from a donor truck that supposedly ran. So their reply was, we'll it could be something with hardware and you only paid for updating software, need to send it in for repair for another $150. That's why it's still sitting there, because first response was bad pcm, then when I said if I put my other ecm in its fine, then it was back to, well you did get a used unknown condition ecm so it could be that. It's my fault for not putting it in the truck before I reprogrammed it just to see how it acts, now it's a shot in the dark. Everything works perfect except for tach dropping out randomly. I hope I'll never need it, if I do it still works, so whatever.

So there is something in ecm that is not talking to ccd? I can't see how it's ccd issue as when I put different ecm in, no more problems. Basically if I sent ecm back to ACS I need to tell them to repair the part that is responsible for ccd communication?

Probably be laggy as a single, not sure about twin set up still learning myself how it all works. Wife is going to be due for a new car this fall, more payments but it may give me an excuse to do a twin set up, just not sure if I want it yet. Too much crap hanging in the way.

I'm not quite sure on water shortening out ecm, if wire torched positive from battery I could see how it could happen, but with water in a plug in would think it would just change resistance. @Mopar1973Man what do you think. My water in fuel plug is just hanging not plugged into anything, since I got rid of factory fuel filter and heater canister. Sometimes when it rains my water in fuel light will come on. I'm thinking I should fill it full of silicone for now. My experience with ACS is neutral. I pushed a used ECM to have a spare for my own reasons. I sent it out to them to be programmed to my truck and have 3 cylinder idle enabled (they call it cold idle I believe) got it back and installed to try it out, everything seemed to work fine for a couple of days, then out of nowhere driving down the road my tach went to zero. Got home scan for codes and got p1698 pcm not receiving bus. They told me it was my pump and I need to send it in for repair. I put my original ECM back in and all problems went away. Not sure how ECM will throw a code for PCM but that's what happened. So I have that ECM still sitting on the shelf and I don't know what to do with it. What's weird is truck ran fine for a few days, 3 cylinder idle work fine too. Maybe something in my wiring I'm just by switching ECM out problem goes away. I haven't tried switching back yet, if my current one ever goes bad I know that one works fine just no tach signal. What's weird is tack on dash didn't work but Quadzilla still showed RPM just fine. Idk I hate electrical Gremlins

It happens