Dieselfuture

It's OK to temporarily test it like that, not recommended to leave it without reprogramming it to your truck.

Just went to local parts store they had ones I took out and the ones I got, going to give these a try. The only thing I don't like about solid stems is if you snag them they will break. https://shop.slime.com/products/tire-valves-tr416-high-performance?variant=47558586504

Was losing air for last few weeks, found a leak in a tire valve. It's leaking where it goes through the rim. I took it out and it was starting to tear. I have 4th gen rims and I believe the size is Tr413 .453" My question is can I use any valve or does it have to be a truck specific. I have some Milton ones that I use on everything else, just not sure of psi rating. The one that came out used to have tpms sensor attached to it, po kept the sensors when I got the rims, valve works without the sensor.

Sounds like ECM needs help, like mentioned above you can send it for repair to ACS, make sure you give them all present codes and specify exact problems you're having. Then you need to check alternator for AC noise and do a WT ground mod before you install your new ECM or it will go out again in short time and will not be covered under warranty. I would stay away from part store alternators, most are junk off the shelf. You can get original one online for under 200 or buy an aftermarket higher amp rating one from nations and some other places I can't remember.

So why did you change your injection pump, was this problem present before you changed it. I believe no bus means ECM and PCM is not communicating. Does your wait to start light comes on instantly with key on, have you checked for AC noise or done WT ground mod. @Mopar1973Man would know a lot more about no bus thing.

No, loosen up the sleeve, rotate the long tie rod(pass side) one way and short (driver) the opposite direction, then keeping them in that position adjust sleeve for alignment, snug it up. Tie-Tire rod will only rotate so far, you're not taking them out of the sockets from spindles, you're just taking some of that slop out by twisting it to begin with. But I like that other idea with plastic shims. I have a Mopar T style steering, it doesn't do that but it's not that old either. If it ever does I will be putting them plastic things in.

Yes it will change alignment (toe) but if you twist one tierod clockwise and other counterclockwise all the way then back off just a little, then rotate connecting collar to get toe set then snug bolts on collar. This will limit the amount they twist. What brand of tierod did you use

They supposed to roll some so it has give when things flex, you can adjust it by loosening conector coupling and rotate tierods to where they don't travel as much when you tighten up the coupling. I usually set them parallel to each other. Dead spot is ether track bar or gear box. You can adjust the gear box a little see if it helps. Track bar is best to check with truck running and have someone turn wheel back and forth few hours and go look at both ends.

I would definitely call ACS and see what they say and if they can help, they had ecms for sale out right for 600/700 bucks programed to your truck with latest software.

Can't you go backwards

I always rest trip, so I always know what I got. Plus with the quad dialed in it tells me exact amount of fuel used.

I've found that I heal faster if I keep working/moving, of course there are limits to what you can do when injured, but sitting on couch doing nothing is way worse for your health in general. I honestly don't do much couch time at all, maybe an hour a week or less, to sit with kids because they want me to see something I have no desire to lol, some stupid crap on TV. I try to get them in garage or outside and do things, they come out of zombie mode after bit and act normal then. That's my bigger issue is to keep them away from screen time, way to much for developing eyes and brain to handle. Bad enough they get plenty of it in school now, then first thing they want is turn TV on when they get home so they can watch YouTube videos of some random people doing stuff. I'm like, hey I'm doing stuff here come look and learn, it lasts a minute or two then they get board. Then they go watch some idiot that has no clue of anything, talking about nothing....

I haven't known what free time was for the last 3 years ever since we moved to a different town and I'm still driving to same job. Everyone saying get a job closer but it's not as easy as they think. I moved up the ladder for the last 10 years, having benefits and accumulated time off is a big plus, probably the only thing holding me back at this moment and a bigger paycheck of course. Start somewhere else then start over basically, especially time off no one is giving it away. So I'd rather drive to my old job for now, although I waste 12 hours a day just to go to work. I know other people that have a worse than me so I don't complain much about it, I do mention it once in awhile as we're all human and wante decent life. Good thing you're getting random jobs to stay busy, that may actually help you keep your mind off other things temporary. I wish there was a simple answer to all this, Lottery maybe, but you need to play to win. I played for a while then I gave it up, since that I wasn't meant to have an easy way out. Everything I acquire is through blood and sweat seems like. I know they say work smarter not harder, I don't think I'm that dumb, I think it more has to do with being at the right place at the right time. I say this all the time, I'd rather be lucky then smart.

Nice socks ha ha, are them flowers... better be you're wife wearing them.

Been raining more than usual, Mississippi been pretty high in Quad Cities more rain in forecast

Sounds like you're on the right track to figure that out. Are all your fuel lines original or did you upgrade to 1/2 inch. What lift pump are you using, are you sucking from factory fuel basket( it has push lock connectors) did you put a draw straw in. Have you looked at the T at the back of the head where VP and injectors meet to return fuel.

The funniest part of this story is probably all them teardrops people you were paranoid about, took off running when they heard that. Bam... Oh shi. ... drive by, take cover...

Yeah my tune is more for crusing, it will get up and go if you use 100% throttle. Timing at 20 crusing and when you apply more load it will drop like you're seeing. You can bump light throttle load limit to 25 it will cancel out later on cruse timing. And I bumped it to 3* now and my max timing is set to 30 now. Level 3 is all canbus, levels above that uses wire tap at defined user settings. If you want more go off line, increase canbus by 4/6 across board and put 30+ psi at 150

You're right with WT mod, or was just speaking in general and missed that part. I guess if you unhook everything from the alternator and just leave the serpentine belt on, if you got a C noise at the battery, then it's not the alternator that's causing it. I think that's where Mike was heading with, then we'll have to figure it out what can possibly cause AC noise to backfeed. I'm thinking on plug fuses one at a time and see if it changes, obviously can't unplug the ones that make the truck run.

By changing the tune it will affect how to transmission shift also. I forgot exactly why but it does affect it.

I think best way to do it would be unplug the connector in alternator, field lead and undo the charge wire from alternator not the PDC, if you unplug the fuse in PDC ac noise will still be going through the charge wire next to other wires

I would not put 3.55 in a dully personally, I would put bigger tires like I mentioned before. And if you're planning on staying stock I would not waste money on checking injectors, get a new set of rv275 and a boost fooler. If you can get 30ish psi out of it, should be good for what you're doing. Make sure to check for boost leaks with soapy water. Take intake tube off turbo, make adapter to go to compressor, pressurize to 20-25 psi and go around spraying soap. Especially you said you messed with turbo, they don't always seal very well. First picture is back side of turbo leaking air. Second picture is a fernco for a plug and I'm playing with boost elbo/actuator, later I gave up on it and plugged the hole in turbo, no more wastegate for me. I control boost with qwadzila.

I put new wheel bearings and still one sensor is dropping out, does it after driving a while never when cold.

Personally I would keep 410s and put bigger tires, like 35s would be good. I had 35s on my 12v valve with 410s it worked good. Problem becomes, they will rub on control arms when turning and will wear on front end parts. Id try that before paying for gear swap though, maybe a used set. You will see a big difference with bigger injectors and a tuner. I would say if you get a quad get 7x10s vco, have them popped at 320 bar when ordering, DAP can do that. You can get by with hx35 for a while but will see a huge difference if you get something like 62/68/12 or 14 oe even 62/65/12, there is a nice little turbo dap sells called k27, it's an upgrade from xh35 and not to big, it would work good with like rv275 and a some kind of boost fooler if you didn’t want quad. I thought about getting k27 then went with a custom turbo from North American Turbo to keep my exhaust brake and have slightly bigger turbo then k27. It all depends on what you want from your truck and how much you want to do with it. If you're keeping it stock, then put a set of RV275's and bigger tires, even something like 295s to get closer to 33-34" tire maybe stay skinny 295 and under to keep rubbing on control arms down. If you have money get twins, qwad, injectors. Ether way you go I would be looking at studs, and better valve train with pushrods, unless you're staying mostly stock with RV275's and your hx35 then you should be fine, just add boost fooler. I don't even think you'll need quad with that set up, in my opinion it's comes in handy with bigger turbo and injectors, plus you'll need to figure out how to use it, which is not hard but time consuming. Once again if you got money then get a quad, can't go wrong with it on vp truck.

I think as long as you leave the relay in it should be fine. To get full benefits you need 1/2" lines throughout.