Dieselfuture

I gotcha ya, so it's just a wheel spacer sounds like. Maybe someone was trying to correct for a worn-out track bar, to get the axle and body centered.

I'm lost, where does this shimberg go and what does it look like, any pictures or links.

Popping out of exhaust or intake was usually caused by wrong timing on gassers, I never experienced it with this truck so I can't tell for sure. I think it's timing related. Is it possible to have vp installed 180* off somehow.

Kinda what I was thinking, main fuse or something

That's how I feel a lot of times too.... Not sure about the ignition, never had to work on it yet. Not that I said it

The sound is clearer and louder, I was surprised at first that sound didn't change much by going to more expensive speaker, I could tell the difference after removing the amps. Edit Keep in mind I have aftermarket market stereo, if you're still using factory stereo you probably need the amps

Sounds like too much toe out, you want 0 or .o5 toe in none out.

Not sure but there should be a vent someplace, if it's plugged it will push oil out of seals with temperature fluctuations, same goes for anything else like axles etc. I changed my rear axle seals when I got the truck and then I realized vent was plugged as I was finishing the job, oh whell. If i remember right there is a 1/8 " tube on top of tranny that I think I put a hose on and try to blow in, if it's good it will blow back some because you're filling the whole tranny with air.

Make sure your vent is not plugged

So once I got rid of amps I had to loop some wires to feed back speakers, I didn't hook up tweeters in pillars new speakers sound good without them. Some colors still did not match, I ended up pulling the stereo and ohm checking the wires.

Yeap spear parts

Yeah but I don't think it will be a huge deal, mechanical pumps don't prime ether. The only other thing is if it's cold and you have to wait for wts to go out. And the initial key on sends juice to relay and if it's when it triggers it then not sure if it will work ether. Beyond my thinking.

Tonight has come and gone sir

Looks clean

This is so you don't have to wire anything in, just replace the relay with this one. As long as you have an aftermarket harness that comes with Fass or airdog, otherwise you'll have to wire in a relay base a factory setup. https://m.delcity.net/store/Time-Delay-Relays/p_804415.h_804416.r_IF3003?mkwid=8TgfXoca&crid=11472933143&msclkid=244a8de769fc10e0a1ddd14a10340b58&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping - PLA's(BSC)&utm_term=1100315444392&utm_content=Ad group %231 Edit I'm just reading the instructions on this relay and it's working opposite from what we need, it keeps things powered on after the ignition is off not the other way around. Maybe there is another one that does the opposite @IBMobile

Try this tune, your setup is pretty close to mine. Make sure you leave it on Level 3 just driving around, anything above that uses wire tap. In your tune your wiretap comes on too early in my opinion especially if your using level 6 all the time.

http://m.carcomplaints.com/news/2018/honda-earth-dreams-engine-lawsuit-cr-v-civic.shtml

The app on the phone is so it can communicate to the quad box under the hood through Bluetooth or wifi depending on which one you chose, I prefer Bluetooth. The stuff in the phone is 1.9.41 This is the easy part. To see what software is in the box under hood you need to install a driver so box can communicate to your computer. Here is @Me78569 write up on that. Latest software is supposedly 2.8.5 I'm still using 2.8.41 I believe and have no issues with it. I belive quadzilla only is used for software development and really should be removed from vehicle selection, it has extra features that if you don't know what you're doing will screw things up. If you're talking about turbolab, I would check this place out. http://www.northamericanturbo.com All made in USA and genuine holset parts. That's where I got my hybrid from.

I just used some engine paint from pats store, few coats later looked good for me, next day I put the head on. Maybe when you get to 1000000ml you can paint it then

I've read some place not too long ago, I believe it did mention worse in cold weather and extended idle too. I think Honda is trying to blame it on driver at the same time reworking software to correct some of it, but in the end it's not going to be perfect anyway. I believe China said they won't let any of these engines in the country even with correct software.

I would be more concerned about thinning of the oil by fuel, if it's the newer or earth-friendly direct-injected engine. They inject fuel directly into cylinder at high pressure and can overcome compression, if not all of it gets burnt it goes down pass the rings into the oil. I would recommend changing oil every 5000 with full synthetic.

I guess try water and then maybe hot wire test to eliminate the ecm

Yeah I was kinda scratching my head when I put new speakers in the sound wasn't much better, probably because I reused the amp. Will report back when I redo the whole thing.

Any codes at all

Figured why wires don't match, I was looking at wires that go from plug to amp (not all trucks had that) what I needed to do is go before the plug, it all match there.