Dieselfuture

It's all bullshit for most part, nothing more than get more money out of regular people. There's so much to learn if you get time it's crazy, just use a good decrement before making final decision.

I believe it's called bubble flare

On the bright side all you need to do is change your oil filter every once in awhile.

Did you install the tires or did you buy the truck with tires installed, could have some counteract beads inside. If that's the case take something heavy and go around the tire smacking it to break the beads loose. Front drive shaft shouldn't spin unless you're in 4-wheel drive, at least mine doesn't. I guess that would depend if you have cad or not.

Before I knew much... I needed different size fittings on Ranger on opposite ends, the only way I could figure it out was to get different sizes lines, then I cut each one in half and slid one in to other few inches, it was a tight fit. Then I used solder worked for few years till we junked the truck.

Same here, but I only put in plow springs, I don't think they are any longer.

Tool I listed is double flare

The ones I used are from 4liter Ford engine and need work to make them fit. If shop is saying they'll fix it then the right way of doing it would be removing head and machining valve guide to accept newer style VS-C59LV top hat seals. If they will not remove the head then your options are, use same seals they did firs time and some adhesive to hold them in place or modify Ford seals vs-292v which is time consuming, but so far is working on my truck.

For hard lines I got a mastercool 71475 flaring tool and some corrosion resistant lines in a roll in different sizes. If you get one make sure to shop around so it includes all the fittings.

Yeah, been a while though. I think I just slid the glass as far as I could and squeezed somethingin there, maybe rtv can't remember and then slid mirror back, closed the visor till next day. So far been good, I actually forgot I did this till I read your post.

All I know is it got rid of my Honda that started in any temperature and got another diesel commuter, we better not have crap fuel this winter, or I'll just have to stay home.

Note to self, not that I'll ever need Auto transmission parts , but I'll steer everyone else that may mention them clear of that place.

I use dielectric grease on multi connectors and some antioxidation stuff on single connections. I think that antioxidation grease is conductive, so you don'twant to use it on multi plug because it can short out.

Guessing guy is thinking it's almost a new truck for half the price of new, why not try. If it was manual he'd have more luck imo.

I want 50k for mine, first come first serve

Select what you want to quote by highliting, then hit little quote button that appears under, sometimes it doesn't. Or you can use @ and user name right after without a space. @Nicarlov

Without it you wouldn't understand anything at all Slow conditioning

Got to love auto correct

Glad you got it figured out, got a look inside at same time. Chain looks good yet, stretched a bit but nothing bad. Looks straight forward on how to, seems that most here turning ranches can do this job no problem.

So it was leaking on that seam then where case split? And not where it meets transmission. Originally I thought it was leaking at tcase. But this makes sense now. Pictures worth a 1000 words.

How much do you trust your shop that did rebuilt. They could of said new shaft and didn't. Other than that grinding clunking in gear when I had my Mustang with t5 meant that the main cluster great had teef missing. Not sure on nv4500

Sounds like you're having the famous 5th gear nut problem

I think they mandated enough crap for us, not that I don't agree more people need a sense of humor. I think we can all be more happy if we live a simpler life and not chase what naighbors have.

I get that way sometimes, then I just move on as I'm not that picky