Dieselfuture

Wired, that's who just looked at mine too, I don't know if there was much wrong with it as it didn't cure my abs/brake light on off, but with their good reputation I figured I'd eliminate module as a problem and go from there. Then changer rear end sensor and lights turned off and haven't been back thank God. Have you checked ac noise and I was told make sure your lift pump wire if you have an aftermarket one, isn't too close to module, it could create magnetic field and cause module problems.

It's 2 front and 1 rear abs. Yes the abs pump running is something wrong with it, probably a relay in board. Who fixed it for you.

If you want an aggressive tune that carries power all the way to the top, you can use defuel settings I use them as back up anyway. You'll have to play with them as it could respond different depending on tune. In perfect world if you have a good combination of air/fuel/timing which you should be close with your set up, you can build a tune that basically runs out of power before you get too hot or too much boost/drive pressure. Tuning is going to take some time, it's ongoing thing.

You can tune the quad just right and not need boost elbow, I hate that stupid thing. I'd go with turn buckle on waste gate before boost elbow. Mine is pluged right now, I rely on tuning and defuel setting for back up. Also thinking about getting blowoff valve to keep turbo from barking. You don't need to buy a boost fooler that's built into the quad. You may also want to invest in better valve springs and possibly pushrods.

My guess is your vp was on the way out, when they put it back after tapet cover gasket, probably took too long to get the air out cranking and vp got more damage to timing piston. What fuel pump do you have. I don't think you'll get them to pay for anything, these people make leaving on others misery. You can always try never know. Is your vp original

Looks like you'll have to do another vp before your retirement. Hopefully it'll be the last one, but at the same time I want to say, I'd like to see you go through bunch more if you get what I mean.

Try changing rear wheel sensor in pumpkin

Not sure if it's same, I did do 5 blinks for convenience turn signal, rear middle brake light flash fast if you slam breaks, key fob will roll down/up windows if you hold unlock/lock Etc.

Good question need to pull codes

I don't have many miles on my vcos form DAP but smoke has been increasing slowly, so I'm sure pop pressure is dropping. I've been adjusting canbus on quad to compensate. Kinda sucks that they don't hold pressure for very long. Next time they are out I'll pop them to 330ish, may do it myself yet if I get set up. Other than that still running ok for now ha ha.

What happened to your springs, we're they overloaded? It should be pretty good lift from factory, most people want to lit the front to level, which I think is not a good thing unless it's more of a toy. Maybe better of just replacing your rear springs with factory, shackle flipp will be better ride but I believe you lose some load capacity and how suspension works. Maybe shackle flip with air bags would be good. I may look in to that myself since I already have bags.

P500 is from spinning rear tires has nothing to do with apps. I think it clears itself after so many key cycles. May want to check a ground block under Driver side kick panel. Tack not working could be cam sensor but I would think it would throw a code. Not sure if 01 has crank sensor. Could be in ecm/pcm, someone else will pitch in. Have you checked for ac noise.

His noise changes with temps of engine, I suppose anything is possible

Honestly with temperature changes it does do weird things I just never pay much attention. Thing is I have a quad and Mike's fuller switch that I keep on summer temps/mpg mode so ecm is fooled most of time.

I wish I could say more, but it sounds like you may be on the right track. 270k is not bad, be nice to get over 300 though. Could it be your splice by ecm.

More than ect sensor related, Guage is slow to respond. Temp drops a little and timing changes jmo

Just had mine fixed at ModuleMaster great service and people

I think you're trying to say you would rather have an older car without all electronics.

I take it back on rear sensor dropping signal, it's the front left that does it all the time and front right that you can see in graph dropped few times same time as left side. Rear never dropped but had a code for it. So I changed the rear sensor and now the brake/abs light turned off and so far are staying off. Maybe the rear sensor was bad enough to somehow trigger code and that's why light was coming on, weird that when monitored it's perfect. Time will tell.

They are here now

With a twitching eye

I I thought using torch on ball joints was a dangerous idea

A little update. Aurelian sent a calibration file to Malone, malone sent us 2 files. One unmolested from Aurelian and the other tweaked to us model vw car. They both improved how car responded but tweaked one ran beter. Then we had to take some torque away because it still shuttered/stumbled at hwy speed when getting on throttle. Lost a bit of power but drivability greatly improved, I can leave with that. I never did change any hard parts, it was all in tuning. Still not sure how it ran good for so long and then needed calibration file. I'm starting to dislike all automobiles.

Make sure you read to the end we changed a wire to splice a few times.

Honestly I don't know. They came off a 2012 srw3500 I would think quite a bit , I remember @AH64ID saying something about 17" had lower ratings. I don't think it's rims themselves, more to do with tires.