Dieselfuture

Please explain gravity Edit: sorry Jag I thought I was on the roll, don't take it the wrong way. All we do is make excuses for our jokes...

Cummins part department here is open 24/7 for a head gasket I would only use Cummins for everything else felpro is probably good. I never had issues with them. victor reinz was good too, haven't used them lately.

Now we both get banned, along with @JAG1 The Troll Army is growing

I just didn't know where to start so it's not confusing. Not sure if it's better or worse. Just being me

I'm sorry I can't help you out, but your twin may have the answer @Me78569

Where do I start .... I guess in the beginning ha ha. So I got this 2013 vw jetta sportwagen tdi for a commutter, only after I did research and found parts and people to help with the pump swap . These are pretty decent cars after few minor corrections and good on fuel consumption, I keep telling myself that. I couldn't find a cp3 kit in US, Seems all outfits stopped selling them shortly before I got the car. After some research I found a kit on ebay, ships from Romania. Investigated farther and found some threads on line with Aurelian aka Mark radiators, discussing his pump that he also sells on ebay. So I got a hold of him and he sold me the conversion kit, just under $900 shipped, not through ebay. Kits that other places sold were around $1500. I found pumps for $300 bucks but there is more to the kit, I didn't want to reinvent the wheel and start fabricating. It's a mini cp3 compared to say Cummins common rail. Which brings another topic, gm and ford went with cheaply designed cp4 and have problems with self destruction also, Cummins was smart enough to keep cp3. Fast forward, I got the pump and everything I needed in kit to do swap, except some special tools I had to get to install timing belt back on. All went great until I drove it. Started fine, idle fine, driving like a human it did fine too until I punched it. Went like cheetah on cocane for a bit then check engine light came on and went to limp mode. Shut it off and restarted the car, came out of limp mode, scanned it and had high rail pressure code. Got a hold of Malone (Tunning genius, kinda like @Me78569 ) found one of his dealers 100ml away to tune the pump. After few logs sent to malone we got a file back, flashed the ECM, did another log to be sure and it runs perfect. I think he charged me like $40 for his time and I had him do other things to the car with vcds tool. Still money ahead then buying, get this (flashzilla) they call it, so you can load your own tunes if you want to constantly mess with it, like try bigger turbo etc. But you still need vcds to data log and flashzilla is vin locked. I didn't care for obd11 and how they do business, if I get anything in future it'll be vcds. For what I'm using this car for, I just want reliability, no need to buy all these extras, or so I thought. Fast forward 8k plus miles later and rail pressure is all over the place, car is jerky when passing in higher gear, I would say high load low boost situation. Back to malone and his dealler. Few logs and files later we can't get it to run right, even tried a new metering valve on the pump. I was told to get one just in case when I got the pump by Aurelian, he gave me part number and got it on aliexpress, $20 for a genuine bosch, money well spent but not needed ha ha. After days of emails back and forth with malone I sent my logs to Aurelian, he replied that there was no calibration done and by now pressure regulator on the rail may be bad. He then sent a file to Malone with his calibration to try. So now I'm waiting on pressure regulator to come in before I go to malone dealler. At this point it would be cheaper to buy flashzilla, but I would still need vcds to data log, I'm hoping with new regulator and tune from Aurelian the battle will be over. Car still runs just not very good when in higher gear passing or getting on it. I'm still a bit confused on calibration thing, Malone did something in beginning to make it run good but apparently calibration is different from what he did. I found some pumps on line for like duramax, they say pump is already calibrated and ready to be put on the truck. @Me78569 can you shine some light on it for me if you know how this calibration work, I'm under assumption that it's done in software in ecm someplace as the pump itself is mechanical and only has the metering valve on it that's electronic, unless it can be bench flashed for a specific vehicle. If that's the case then Aurelian should provide that info to buyers or bench flash it himself, and I also would have thought someone like Malone would know exactly what to do in the first place. Their response was "all the pumps we deal with didn't need calibration" but then I found a year old thread where they went through it with another guy. Aurelian said his pumps make more power and more you squeeze out of it, more fine tuning required. So idk who's lying or not telling the whole story, or simply doesn't care, but it's on my dime. Sucks but hoping to have it resolved soon and move on. Overall I can't complain too much as both Malone and Aurelian trying to help out, just wish people were more upfront from beginning. I'm very thankful that it's even possible in the first place and there are people out there, that make it possible. But none the less, it's never as it seems. Wife of course thinks I'm stupid as usual and should have left it alone. If I knew I couldn't do this conversion in first place in would have bought something else. If cp4 goes out it contaminates fuel system and cost lots of money and time to repair. I thought I'd be money ahead to convert now and save in the long run. But what do I know....

Do you have quad, possibly something in settings if you do

I would think relay not staying on would mean bad connection, possibly fuse. Look for sings of mice chewing on wires maybe. Could be lose ground terminal or battery.

I got timbo apps years ago and never looked back

If pump is still working, personally I would buy a reseal kit for vacuum and steering pump and do it myself, as quality of reman stuff is crap anymore. https://www.fixinrams.com/seal-kit12-section.html He has starter rebuild kits also, I got all my stuff from him.

What is failing ? Could you get another changed under warranty and rebuild it before the failure.

Sometimes diodes don't solve the problem if you have a lot of use on alternator, brushes and armature will put out some ac noise also. Diodes is a good place to start along with WT mod.

Yhea I didn't care for that design plus I have a goose neck plate there.

I used over the leaf spring kit and modified it to go on axle/frame. I don't think kit above was available, if it was I overlooked it. I didn't shave my frame I just made the extension from few pieces of heavy wall dom tube I had laying around. Kit above looks like would be pretty easy to put on 2500 with little modification.

Since it's all mechanical, maybe something is sticking internally. Make sure obvious things are free and able to move around if they need to

I'm still on oe plug, but for next oil change I got a new one from Cummins for 10 bucks. Mine has a small tear in it, not leaking but not taking any chances ether.

You're on the right track, there's a lot to learn still. WT mod, among other things are in order, just be patient and don't hurry things up. Do the important things first to make your move, then take it easy and make every thing else right. Good luck

Yeap what he said ^^^^^ that's what I meant, may not came out that way though.

Make sure to cut your straw on an empty as possible tank. Be a good idea to cut it 1/8 of an inch from bottom then make 1/8 by 1/4 wide gaps at bottom of straw so it never gets blocked by bottom of a tank. I personally like my draw straw5 kit it works on updated fuel modules.

Michelins supposed to be a good tire, I had good luck with them on several cars/SUVs, I used defenders on those. Even had some 16r20 xzl and xl on my toy truck . They seem to last long time with little balance if you don't mind hwy tread. Of course I didn't bother to balance 16r20s ha ha. Not sure what you got but hopefully just need time to break in.

I'm curious why you went back to single, I've been debating if I want to go twins.

Make sure to use upgraded trunnions, they came on later models, or you can get aftermarket. They have a groove cut for oil.

I was going to ask why but then I realized you have narrow streets

@Mopar1973Man When you sent your abs module in, did you unbolted it from the pump and left all the brake lines attached? Or did you send the whole thing in. Did you need a new gasket/oring if you detached the module? I'm thinking about swapping my module just the electrical part and see what happens.

I've had abs/brake light come on when hot out or if I drove for a while for few years now like 5-6 Mabel more. I'm starting to think it all began when I had surging problem, like engine would start cutting out on steady speeds on hwy 65 or so. Though it was vp, but thanks to good people here I got talked out of changing it. Between new injectors and rebuilding alternator, surging went away. I'm thinking it had time to damage abs module. I have a spear one I'm going to put on and try. I also changed rear sensor and front sensors, then front hubs with new sensors again, same issue. Using snap on, it's saying front left sensor is randomly dropping signal. Having hard time believing that both old and new wheel bearings are junk. Last month I went to Canada Trip fishing and back, every time we filled up with fuel I check temperature and they were cool, even to the touch. So next step for me is ABS module if it doesn't fix it I'll be changing front left bearing again. Btw driving truck to work today didn't set abs/brake light on, it's 35f out, if it was summer temps I'd have it come within minutes of leaving. It's 70 miles one way. Hope you figure out your issue. Let us know.