Dieselfuture

Not arguing, but do you think there is a chance you got the better of that 50/50 and it'll last no matter what, kinda like the original.

Don't mind my I would go with android, seems to have less problems with other things too.

Yes, so far it's been running good. First thing that helped was new injectors, but I still had some hesitation very little, then I rebuilt the alternator that seemed to cure the rest, later on i did the WT mod like @Mopar1973Man suggested and it has reduced the ac noise even more, I also did the pcm protection mod. If you rebuilt the alternator FYI just changing diodes on mine was half the problem, brushes and armature account for noise also. If you by an alternator get a new denso or an aftermarket higher amp on. I personally would not buy one from local part store that are junk chinese rebuilt units, it's a gamble. Also with quad you may want to play with timing a bit, chances are you're over advanced for winter temps which could cause some surging.

I believe you can use amp meter on fuses and see what's drawing juice. May have to wait a while for modules to go to sleep.

I'd say regular lazer gun would do good for vehicles. IR Is nice for trouble shooting panels to see what's drawing heat in circuit boards, like lose connections etc. Hey if you get one check out moon light vs shade, I seen it on YouTube where moonlight is way colder then things in moon shade.

I'll try to see if I kept them and take a picture

Big bang really thought of us in the long run, as we evolved it evolved a few things for us. It knew we'll use diesel and a few salads along the way. I think beans are part of it. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/311663236711707650/?%24ios_deeplink_path=pinterest%3A%2F%2Fpin%2F311663236711707650&%24android_deeplink_path=pinterest%3A%2F%2Fpin%2F311663236711707650&amp_client_id=amp-Hj7rjE-TJfnC02lGp3TfNA&utm_source=168&utm_medium=2160&current_page_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinterest.com%2Fpin%2F491736853041210216%2F&install_id=1087e232a051085902b6cfc494d28651&%24fallback_url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pinterest.com%2Fpin%2F311663236711707650%2F&_branch_match_id=746752592950521183

Yes it's hard to picture it but I'm pretty sure it's the fine screen that snaps over the whole bottom of basket, I took mine off and I'm able to suck the tank pretty empty, maybe few gallons left. The basket is spring loaded on my truck, so it always sits on the bottom, screen or no screen. I'm going of memory now crap.

No lol, keep that fine screen off the bottom, not sure on what you have on your intake tube for a screen, unless you're talking about original intake pump sock. If you know you'll be going off road it's a good idea to have more than half the tank just in case. I usually fill up when I get close to a 1/4 for many reasons. Sure if I'm on a long hwy trip I have got it down to almost nothing, knowing I had stations lined up when needed. Day to day, I fill up before I get low.

The screen on bottom of basket comes of and stays off, I left mine off. Yes diesel fuel gets foamy if it's dumped on top. For that reason I ran my return as far down as I could inside the basket, I made a notch in the tube so fuel can still come out because it sits on bottom. If it gets dumped in fill line I think most bubbles come out before reaching fuel pick up and then fass/air dog removes the rest. Not sure on mechanical, must not be an issue.

Edit Here toss this in there too https://www.google.com/search?q=ocean+level+history+last+100+years&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiSo-SHgYvnAhXBbc0KHUSWBOkQ2-cCegQIABAC&oq=ocean+level+history+last+100+&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-img.1.0.33i299l3.7989.10955..12118...0.0..0.298.1590.0j9j1......0....1.........0i30.hEdd5doXabg&ei=i9ohXtKxFsHbtQbErJLIDg&bih=560&biw=360&client=ms-android-verizon&prmd=nisv#imgrc=LvL9daSwN71BiM "If you don't watch the news you're not informed if you watch the news you're misinformed" Never happened Happened according to the Bible

One is supply (plastic) corrugated, one is return (aluminum) from fass, both can be used as supply. You can actually see my abandoned drawstraw that po put in with a cap on it, he cut it too short and I had 1/4 tank losing fuel pressure issues, instead of getting new straw I got basket retrofit. When I got my drawstraw5 it only came with one line and you were supposed to return fuel from fass or airdog to factory quick connect that acted as a supply originally. I had pressure that fluctuated up to 6 psi from restriction, after I up sized to 1/2" return it now only fluctuate 1-3psi depending on how hard I step on it. I later spoke with people that made drawstraw 5 and told them about my findings, they must of listened because within about a year they started to include two 1/2" lines one for supply and one for return.

You can use alternator nut and rotate it with a socket and ratchet counterclockwise, I want to say 24mm, obviously serpentine belt has to be on.

This is my basket maybe it will help, last picture is how it stayed

Yhea what he said ^^^ If I had to guess its about 2 - 3 degrees, purly on my hunch

I've been using 5-20% biodiesel it seems more and more stores sell it around here without adding anything and if I find a station where it's not marked and no one knows what it is I'll add the two cycle. Thinking about buying some stanadyne to add when it gets really cold. At least stanadyne makes injection pumps hopefuly they know what they're doing.

You shouldn't have to turn the crank to see if the tone ring is bad, can you rotate it with a flat screwdriver with engine off. Because that's the assumption I'm making based on your post where your mechanic and you did this. " I stuck a socket extension in the hole, and the tone wheel rotates"

It should be solid with crank, this is how computer knows piston is in certain position so it can command to inject fuel at the right time. If this gear rotates then fuel is injected at wrong time and engine will not run. If that ring spins freely then it will not start at all. It's not that hard to fix, just need to drop oil pan and few other things. There is a post here of it being done. I would if I were you especially if he said that. it's not unusual for a bigger outfit to charge that just to look at something. This is why we're all here trying to save each other time and money. No not necessary, it can still have issues. What we're trying to say is you need to fix an obvious issue with tone ring on crankshaft being lose before you spend money on anything else. It's tight but can be done. You can lift the the motor up a little when you disconnect the mounts to gain more room.

Hey stop stealing my lines Edit All kidding aside, I think diesel may become illegal for general public sooner than we think. I'm thinking like 15-20 years tops. I know it sounds crazy but I'm willing to gamble.

I think we can create a whole new topic on this. Pros cons where is the best place to drill and tap, etc. I did it because I felt like I should have them, especially if they last long enough grease will start to solidify and squeezing an extra shot in there would freshen things up. But like @AH64ID said overdoing it might ruin it. Same goes for U-joints, the original sealed ones seem to last the longest, but then again was it just better made. I do agree that sealed units have better seals, I know if you take a cap off a sealed U-joint vs non you can see a huge difference of how tight the seals are on a sealed unit and they are double lip, I can't speak for tie rod seals as I've never really looked at them that hard. To me it looks like a regular rubber boot and if you take it off there would be a ball-and-socket in there that could use some grease. Now Where to drill and tap that's a good question, I did it right in a center off the flap metal cap. All of them drilled easy aside from one, it was some sort of hardened metal could be stainless, but eventually I drilled through it. I didn't worry too much about metal shavings, it seemed that it all came out as I was grilling. Plus when you get through there is grease inside and it gets the drill bit full of it and the rest of shavings stick to it. It seems like there was a little gap between the metal cap and the ball socket, which makes me believe that the ball didn't directly ride on the surface where I drilled the hole. I have not added any grease to it yet as it was brand new when I did it and it have plenty of it inside. I actually thought about doing this job later down the road after I get some mileage on it, but decided to do it right away since it wasn't installed on the truck. I'm not planning on greasing at anytime soon, so it kind of defeats the purpose of doing it. I've always did things the odd way anyway, so to each their own. You can leave it alone for a few years and do it at some point later. I'd say if you were constantly going in deep water then it would be beneficial to service them after each use. I did that on my off road trucks and every time I could squeeze a little bit of water from most of the joints and they were all brand new too.

I drilled and tapped my own.

Now I feel special and this is a special place for all special nuts with Moparmans basket that keeps all these nuts from going lost. Not sure where I'm going with this, someone help...

Most of people I know look at me same way, like why don't you just get something new and trade it in every few years, as much as I may want to at times, I just love the fact that everything i have is paid for aside from the house for now. And at 170k some miles 9n the truck I have a long ways to go, think truck will be illegal before I can wear it out, combine that with my diesel vw I drive for work, all I need is diesel to be available in future and I'm set for the rest of my life on vehicles. May have to start making my own fuel some day. Now if I could get wife on board of not wasting money on stupid heated steering wheel among other gadgets in new cars I'll be set

That is your problem. I would first fix that before I did anything with ECM, it's a known fact cummins people are retarded, there are few at each shop that know what they're doing and that's what keeps them going, most of them have no clue. Fix the tone ring, it should not rotate freely, it should only turn when crankshaft is turning. Also get a new mechanic if he thought that was normal he doesn't know what he's doing doing either. Once you fix that and it still does not work you need to check all your wiring and grounds. Once you get it running you also need to check your alternator for AC noise and do WT mod to prevent future electronic failures.

Wondering if you had a quad, if a guy could create a tune to run stronger with a failed map senso just to get by. @Me78569