Dieselfuture

Probably apps, get a timbo. Check all grounds, do WT mod, pcm protection mod, check ac noise.

You probably never rolled coal

https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/runningtests

I'm jealous

That's a weird one, how is it still going straight with wheel that keeps rotating. I'd have to agree with above, something going on in the steering box. Unless you have fully hydraulic steering with a hydraulic ram like on combine tractors that someone retrofitted.

I'm wondering if you wanted a filter minder, instead of drilling the filter and taking chances of plastic getting in engine, why not drill the elbow someplace and put it in there

Could be vp related, multiple reports before they go they can smoke like that. Did you happen to smell it? Is this your actual mileage or some random number that got displayed Any chance your coolant wasn't up to task and it froze See above Not sure that's a good idea, time will tell. Thats a good sign Not sure that's possible, if it is that's news to me. It sounds like you have multiple issues, possibly ecm/cluster took damage from bad wiring/grounds before you did wt mod. Keep tracing wires make sure all clean, check connector on back side of cluster, sometimes it loses connection. Is your oil still mixing with water or did it stop after hg replacement, or after hg replacement you still can't fire it up. You can do a hot wire on vp and see if it starts, that will narrow it down some.

We might help if you promise to cut down on that, I know it's fun and all but gives us all a bad name in the eye of general public.

Mine never used any oil ether and never had problems with seals blowing off, but after rebuilt seals blew off the guides and got smashed by retainers and then it was an oil train on start ups.

This is weird how some engines with low miles have a lot of wear and others with high miles have no wear at all. Wonder if some shops know what to look for, I would hope yes. I want to say 16 of my guides were oval too, I had them put in all 24. They used some brass ones, said they use them a lot with good luck, hope they are right. You could see what a bear head cost, but then it may still require machine work. Replacing guides is cheaper if you can find a good shop near by. I would personally have them machine it for top hat style seals also, so you'll never have to worry about seals blowing off. I got quoted $80 for that but they never mentioned it in the beginning before I knew it was available, so I had to make some out of tinfoil and used genuine chinese condoms, lol just kidding, I used some ford seals from a v6 what a pain in the rear. They still work but I'd rather spend 80 at the shop if I would have known.

Just another reason they try to get rid of old Clunkers.

Could it be ignition switch like @dripley had problems with

What he said ^^^ you know quite a bit about your truck not sure how we're going to help. Waiting on more wire inclined minds. Didn't you have your ecm repaired ?

What's it doing, click no click, wait to start coming on. My contacts in starter were bad an sometimes it clicked and others nothing, after I rebuilt it starts every time.

Ooohh wee, Quadzilla ain't going to fix that. @Evan might though seems the set up you got is up his alley.

Some say if it made it to 150k it won't crack, yeah I never bought in to it. Good thing it went that far for you. Although just like @cageflinn made to 1.3million miles on his 53 block. I believe there is a lot to do with how these trucks are being used, if it's on the hwy all the time I'm not surprised it can last over a million miles, even gas cars go to 500k without major issues when used mostly on hwy. They say its something like 15% of wear occurs on hwy vs town driving. That's probably why you can go so much longer on oil change intervals. Most of wear occurs on start ups and seems that blocks crack if engine is not to operating temp and getting high loads. Of course if you're pulling heavy on hwy and temps go pass safe zone, chances of the weak block cracking are higher too. Jmo

Can't like and laugh at same time, hope it works out good.

@Me78569 might now something. Also try this guy https://m.facebook.com/pages/category/Cars/cp3upgrade/posts/ I got a cp3 retro kit from him for my vw 2.0l cr cjaa. He may know stuff too.

Now everyone else will want to go down that path seems that way if one goes in someplace usually more follow.

Not always a good idea unless you get right wheel and housing and you can only go so big without changing the exhaust impeller. Not sure if it's worth the hassle unless parts are cheap or like you said Mike got one used from member and rebuilt it for $50 DAP sells holset kits.

Ecms are all different even few months apart. They say 01 02 are preferred ones as they seem to last longer. You'll have to program it to your truck no matter which one. I've spoke with few people who knows and they all said you can plug a different one in for testing purpose but don't leave it for a long time. Not sure why just what I hear.

From what I hear, there is a ground splice in that location. May need to unwrap tape and see what's there. Ground splices on these trucks are crimp with glue, pretty shitty design. Did you already do WT ground mod.

Almost choked on my coffee

I see, make sense after seeing the picture. I was just thinking out loud.