
Everything posted by Dieselfuture
-
2000 Honda Accord using oil
I feel your humor it will give me more reasons to drive the truck daily Wife says sell it while it's still running, I'm like for how much 1k if I'm lucky, what am I going to get for that. It already paid for itself long ago, every mile going forward is a bonus. Been using oil since I got it almost 80k ago runs good on the hwy and gets 35-37mpg I'll try working on it this weekend and see what I find.
-
Gallon Trip reset every power cycle
Are you using this https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-verizon&ei=nMu4XPvmBoWWsAWjw734Cg&q=mini+add+a+circuit&oq=mini+add+a+&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-serp.1.1.41j0l7.5597.6719..7748...0.0..0.196.681.0j4......0....1.........0i71j0i22i30.AnvQpZVH5Sc#ip=1 Or supplied little thingy that quad sends to tap on fuse in driver side dash. Could be something to do with that. Maybe not as there are 2 positive wires from quad, one goes to battery and one in the dash, not sure which one can be resetting it. Check both for good connection. Also beware on what side of fuse you are tapping on, if you put it on hot side then it's not protected. Has to be going through the fuse.
-
Quad tune 7x10 DD and race
These rims and tires waight over 400lb I man handled them, actually I made the rims too. I still got around 10mpg on this truck running about 60-65mph with 454 BBC 500hp. I did have 6.72 gears
-
NV4500 oil
- Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?
I'll have to try that To OP any codes for map sensor, boost leaks, what's the fuel pressure at wot?- 2000 Honda Accord using oil
Oh it's drivable I have to push gas and brake with one foot to keep it from stalling, like driving a stock car ha ha. It's a 5 speed- Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
That would make sense with 245s you're running, I just can't drive any shower. Ideally I would love to have 373 gears and 285/70/17 size tires.- Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
I tend to agree but everyone including my wife in such a hurry, it drives them nuts if I go slow. So I say we can drive 65 and get 20mpg or 75 and get 16, pick one. Then it usually ends with get rid of that old pile and get something smaller you don't need it. Until someone buys something and their like, hey what you doing later can we go get this using your truck. F ing people, I just keep it to myself anymore...- Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?
It sounded like he wants a play tune not an economy one and some smoke Plus I don't see why canbus is going back down in his tune. Idk just trying to help.- Fixing the right problem?
How does a track bar look, sometimes it can be tricky to check if it's loose. That's what holds axle and frame in check with each other. Also take a look at your control arms. Hate to say but moge is junk nowadays. Scenario 1 One of the calipers is grabbing harder than the other, rebuild them for ten bucks a piece if you can, or buy new ones. It could be as simple as sticky sliders, that calipers are mounted with. Don't use antisize on them, use hight temp synthetic brake grease. Scenario 2 Since it goes side to side, that's telling me something is loose causing alignment toe-in out to get out of wack. This could be related to your ice feeling. How do your wheel bearing hubs look like, be easier if you had tires on to wiggle them I was under the impression that stuck ball joints were Spicer non greasable. Grease zerks can be changed, they simply unscrew. Although I have seen a press in kind, either way if you get them you can find one that is self threading. Sounds like you're changing them anyway. Sting box can be tightened using over Center adjustment. There is an allen head bolt and a jam nut on top, loosen the nut turn the bolt clockwise quarter turn, while you're holding it tighten the gam nut back. See if it helps, you can only go so far tightening that screw down, so go in small increments. If the box is licking you might be better off just buying a new one, blue top is what II'd go with. Good luck- Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?
If you want more smoke just increase canbus sooner and max it out earlier, set 150 across-the-board that will do it- 2000 Honda Accord using oil
That was the first thing I changed hoping it did a trick, unfortunately it did not. One more thing I didn't mention. My throttle was sticky, I thought it was a cable catching, got everything lubricated and it was still catching. Took the intake hose off and found a lot of gummy gooey stuff inside the throttle body. Got it all cleaned with carb clean, so butterfly doesn't stick in that gooey mess. I think because of this Blow by its shoving too much oil vapor into the intake- 2000 Honda Accord using oil
I put a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer in, that thick honey stuff and it still burned same amount. It seems if I stay below 3k rpm it does ok, if I get on it there and there then it chugs oil.- Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?
Fuel stretch too hight imo 1800 should do it. Timing too low on top, canbus goes back down, it should stay at 150 once it gets there. Pump tap 50 too high imo, means it will be at least 50% of wire tap that you have set 2200 all the time once you meet low boost, you have 2psi, should be at least 10ish, let canbus do the job first. This is all gmo. Actually try running my tune with your canbus, just change it to 150 at you 24 and up, it should pull good.- dead pedal issues
Ok so it's 8" across the board and about a foot the long way, I knew it was there someplace- 2000 Honda Accord using oil
Thanks gentleman, I will trouble shoot some more. If i ever figure it out I'll let you know. But pretty sure cylinder 1 has oil in it from bad ring is my guess. I do have a code for EGR, that's when it started to die on me too, so hopefully that's all it is for that part. As long as oil consumption doesn't get worse I'll keep driving it.- 2000 Honda Accord using oil
I got a 2.3 vtec that I drive every day for work 160 ml a day and every Friday I add almost a quart of oil maybe 800ml. I read that a lot of people have this issue where vtecs consume oil. It did it when I first bought it few years ago, but I was consuming around 600ml, so it went up slightly. It now has 227k on the clock. I checked compression and all cylinders are the same, I did not do leak down test yet. I believe po ran it low on oil and scuffed-up cylinder number one, or it has broken rings on number one. I took all spark plugs out and 2,3,4 look good and clean and looks good inside the cylinder, 1 is ugly and cylinder is wet, it seems to be oil residue. So I believe that's where all my oil is going. Unless I have a stuck open injector. It doesn't smoke on If it doesn't smoke on startups no matter how long it sits, so I believe valves and seals are good. Another issue developed recently check engine light came on for EGR valve and a lot of times when I come to a stop it wants to stall and die and sometimes it does stall die. Will EGR valve cause that problem, I feel like it's more related to idle air control or simply when the engine is hot cylinder 1 is barely working and I'm running on 3 cylinders and that's why it's trying to die. When it's almost dying I can hear what sounds like a vacuum leak, checked all the hoses and connectors and seems to be good, of course I could have missed a connection someplace I will keep looking. What you guys thinking, @Mopar1973Man @IBMobile and anyone else wants to share their experiences This is cylinder one that's probably the culprit- dead pedal issues
It's the big plug on the ECM I believe it's about 8in out of it- Headstuds
If you're thinking about adding power, I would be looking at better valve train. Springs, pushrods, new and improved trunnions. Depends on your boost levels maybe fire ringing in the head. Personally I would pay a little extra to machine for newer style Top Hat valve seals.- New truck-New transmission
I use my dumbphone 99.9% of the time. Like Jag mentioned above just type that in Google search on the phone you should be able to join no problem. @Mopar1973Man will know for sure- shutter or hesitation under load
Could be your Edge comp box, seems like something is going on with boost fooling. What turbo, what injectors, what size, who did you get it from. The fact that it comes back alive around 40 ish psi tells me that the injectors are probably fine. Can you use some kind of life data tool to see what's going on, and have you checked for codes with a good code reader.- dead pedal issues
What brand of apps did you put in, I would only trust the simple/mechanical one that's called Timbo- Quadzilla V2 Custom Tunes
Try what Nick mentioned above. But for big tires, stock injectors and hy, there isn't much help beyond that. I still have my silencer ring in too, it makes plenty of noise with it in, plus I don't want air turbulent before it enters turbo.- Firmware updates
Pretty sure mine's doing the same thing, I thought it was just ECM fighting with the quad thing- New Meadows flooding...
That's the biggest battle for me also, I only get decent MPG on longer trips, I don't feel so bad now about what I'm getting. - Spit/sputter misfire? Defueling?