Dieselfuture

You must be missing that tube Mike is talking about. When I had my turbo replaced I took that tube off and cleaned it then put few coats of paint on it, as it was getting rusty. Maybe yours went bad and po threw it out. You can make something out of brass tube, elbows and put some inline shut off valves to isolate heater core, like some do.

This was brought up a while back, did he ever put out last/conclusion video.

Not 100% sure, maybe put axle on jacks and tranny in gear, then rotate one tire the other should go opposite direction. If it's Dana 70 they are known to have problems with that stuff. Ether clutch packs or spider gears, there is a pin in spider gears and sometimes little set screw/bolt comes out and pin moves.

A bit fishy but I suppose anything is possible

I think head gaskets have more to do with age unlike my valve guides something had to be wrong

What's low mileage, half of my valve guides were shot at 157k

I don't have a link, I just got one at part store. They're just called electronic flasher look like a regular relay.

Keep us posted, I changed all the interior to led except dash and controls, been reading up on that. Some change to blue bulbs, some to regular, I noticed a lot had hot spots on dash that I don't care for. I got an electronic flasher when I did my projector conversion and used led turn signals on front. It should do both in would think. Still got to do tear tail lights, undecided on bulbs yet.

If you have apps code that could very well be your problem, make sure to use a Timbo sensor.

Ecm is on the block, PCM on passenger firewall Bit me by a second

What did I miss, when was spotter at free reving ok. Something isn't right, could be a Vp, cam/crank sensor, apps, nap, idk, just doesn't seem right. Have you pulled codes with a good scanner.

So far my final conclusion, ACS are more than able to fix/program things, it's just you better be sure to what you want and be as specific as possible when you get things repaired. Otherwise they will only do what you fill paperwork for. So first make sure you get as much info as possible from how truck acts, any codes and so on. Then include all that info when you send ecm in. As long as everyone is on the same page and it's all documented, there shouldn't be any problems. Their price is reasonable too imo, considering you cold spend thousands like @dripley unfortunately had to. Now that we know most probable cause of fried electronics is ac noise/excessive vac, poor grounds, unprotected alternator field wires, probably forgetting something So if we do preventive maintenance and take steps that we now know, really these things should last a long time.

I personally like my 4 turns. One time on my mud/crawler truck I used wrong helm and it was like driving a go cart, half a turn each way, it was so challenging to go straight with 54" tires I was scared. Then found a helm out of 4x4 combine that made it like factory steering. With hydraulic steering I could turn them tires in ruts with one finger, it was awesome, but illegal on roads. Although I drive in town quite a bit and never got bothered by anyone. That was good 15 years ago, now not sure.

No diferent than battery post, just be ware, or what I do sometimes is hot glue a cap over things. I may do that, it comes off fairly easy. Maybe put a pice of tape over first or anything really, then glue over top.

I was going to paint mine but not sure if there is paint that will last

I used the one on the left (inline) on my winch rated at 150 amps, but pops way too easy as maximum winch draw according to spec is 360 amps, so I got a 300amp coming, as for alternator I used the one on the right rated at 150amp, so far no problem.

Good point

I never got mine

I got rid of mine and have no problems other than our local fuel is not treated to our weather. So I leave a glass jar with fuel that's in the tank outside so I know how it acts. Add more additives if needed. If your fuel is gelling in the tank heater on the engine is not going to help. The only time I could see it beneficial if you don't shut the truck off all day, but even then fuel return from the engine is going to be warm enough to keep rest of it from gelling. And yeah you're going to get mixed reviews on this.

Beginning of June 2018. The ecm I sent them was from a donor truck. I never put it in my before I sent it out to them, I was told it wasn't a good idea. Now I wish I would have to know for a fact if that code was present before. I'm not blaming anyone for the code and the service ACS provided was what they said it would be, I just wish they communicated better some of the info, so someone like me that doesn't do this every day knows all options. This is their response Our records show that a Programming service was provided for a 2002 RAM 2500 MT D 5.9 4WD VIN (my VIN) P/N 3947412/ 313038303J Unfortunately only programming service were provided. We can not assist with codes or other issues, unless unit is sent in for repair service. Please keep in mind, our records show that the unit is a spare problems could have come from previous vehicle. We would need proper diagnoses to best assist you. Thank you. ACS Technical Department

That's exact same impression I had. I have a spare ECM I got for a decent deal. Guy I got it from said truck ran fine aside from a knock, maybe bad injector/ cylinder and he was parting it out. It had180k on it. Anyway I sent ECM to be programmed to my VIN, also had them enable high idle , which they call cold idle. Got an email few days later stating that everything went well. Once I got ECM back I installed it and went for a ride, everything seemed fine high idle work fine and then oughta blue I got a code, 1698 no bus message received from PCM. And my tach quick working. I was suggested that may be a problem with PCM but I knew I had nothing to do with it, I just swapped back to my other ECM no codes and no problems. So I called ACS and they said that I did buy the unit from an unknown truck and unknown condition, which is true. And if I would have told them about the code when they had it, they would have fixed it for the same price they charge me to reprogram it which was 150. They had a special for 300 they would go through entire ecm and program it without knowing any codes. They said that to check for all codes it takes too long of a time and they'd have to charge extra, but if it's only one or two codes and something simple then it's 150. So basically if I want it fixed now I have to send it in and spend another 150, so It'll sit on the shelf till next time. My point is they can do the work and I believe they do a good job, but you have to be very specific upfront. Sorry for the long post.

Where you using bio by chance

0.57vac is too much imo, I had issues with high 0.4s I'm below 0.2 now but each truck reacts different. Say you have other weak grounds that I don't, that may contribute to issues also. So I think the lower the better and now that we can have it below 0.2vac with WT ground mod, we should aim towards that number.

Comparing to to some of you here I haven't even been born yet ohhh just kidding, I try to be funny when I can.

looks really cool, wouldn't that radio get hot though