Wild and Free

Any BBI injectors with 150K++ miles on them yet? What kind of warranty do they come with?

:nono:Mike has an 02 as I did, they did away with the CAD at the end of 01 and have a live front axle so the front axles and driveshaft spins full time just like the 3rd gens do.

If you put a Timbo Apps on you need to physically check and set the voltage on it, in your last post you recited the calibtation for the factory apps this could be your issue, the Timbo should have came with detailed instructions on how to calibrate it as the factory apps calibration is different from the Timbo, the Timbo is a set it and forget it nothing to relearn like the factory one.

I ran a BD super B with BD 90 hp injectors with edge comp and it was a bit much fuel in my opinion, I would think 275 or anything under 90hp would be a good match, mine would run a bit warm when towing with 90 sticks.

Are you putting the same axles back into the same housings? There are different axle spline counts within the dana family. It doesn't matter if anything moves or turned it is a direct spline just need to turn it while pushing it in, nothing to fall out of place in a dana.

I can remember in 1980 quite vividly when Mt St Helens blew her top, we had a layer of volcanic ash covering the state of ND even. I remember scooping up the ash that settled on our vehicles and filled a baby food jar with it. My mom had MS and was allergic to the ash and broke out in rashes all over her skin.We have been a bit hazy from the western fires but it isn't as bad as it was a few years back when MT was really going up in ashes it was hard to breathe here in ND as well.

Can't do that either, the UN passed a law a couple years ago saying the "Sun" doesn't affect the climate!:banghead:

Has been making for very beautiful sunsets here in ND. The red in the sky at dusk is breathtaking.My wifes cousin is in here from Missoula MT and she says there are fires 3 miles from her house but it has turned and is headed for Missoula and away from their property.I wonder what the EPA is going to do about this regional haze problem the western states are creating for their eastern neighbors...........

Seems a bit steep with shipping, but since it is a complete kit and not just a clutch kit probably about right, I used to get just the clutch kits alone for around 40 bucks.

The only kits I have used are Oem Dana spicer.

very simple to do, just get a clutch kit and if you noticed when you took it apart it has steels against steels and fibers together with another fiber, this is done by OEM's to purposely make it slip easier without snapping in corners, to restack properly start with steel against the side gears or belville washers and then alternate fiber steel ect ending with another steel, If i remember correctly you need to add 1 fiber to get a tighter stack and to get it stacked correctly, I usually kept one of the best from the old stack to reuse for the correct "Not the OEM order" stacking procedure.

I have seen this system on shows where guys build sluice boxes for finding gold in the hills and they do easily pump water uphill and the systems are even simpler than the one posted here.

"Push loc" is a specific brand and type of hose that Parker makes and is generally blue, what I see in your pics is you have mismatched hose and fittings, looks like you used a reusable aeroquip type hose with push loc fittings, I would change it asap before you have a hose pop off a fitting and loose and engine.I would use the aeroquip hose with reusable ends rather than puch loc hose and fittings in an oil system.

I am looking to see if any members here have any hearing impairments and what you find to be the best hearing aids out there. quality, warranty, digital, blue tooth compatible what other options there are out there in the ear behind the ear tubes ect what are your experiences? I have 75% hearing loss in my left ear in the mid to high range frequencies that is gradually getting worse over the years and 25% loss in my right ear in the higher frequencies which is considered normal for farmers ect. I had my ear drum damaged in high school from a rifle muzzle blast 6 inches from my ear and having been a farmer for the first half of my life and then onto a heavy equipment diesel tech and operator the next half has taken its toll on my hearing, I have been putting it off but the last few years it is getting to the point where I can't put it off anymore, I am noticing quality of life issues and other things that come along with a hearing impairment. It is not only frustrating for me but I notice everyone around gets frustrated with my not being able to hear or understand without repeating several times. I have excellent insurance at work but unfortunately it doesn't cover hearing devices only testing and diagnosing and from talking to a lot who have them and finding on average are $2500-3500 each out of pocket costs I will need to save a bit and sign up for my companies flex dollars next year to help.

Also I have seen quite a few times where the spring inside the lip seal pops off while installing the yoke, this also causes a leak a short time after install, I always put a bit more grease on the inside of the lip seal to hold the spring in better. If you have a bad groove where the lip of the seal rides on the yoke a speedy sleeve would be in order but if it doesn't have a groove I wouldn't worry about it.

First time Single poster never checked back in.................................

That is no different than a new ring and pinion, different ring and pinion or carrier into a different housing and you need to start from scratch with the shims.

Just that, diesel fuel only, no NOS no Water meth no propane not anything injectable and nothing added to the fuel either nothing but good ol ultra low sulfer #2 making the power. Unlike Banks who totes clean engine performance and makes drag runs burning 10 gallons of NOS and hardly any diesel. Its not a diesel run if you only use it to start the engine and idle it onto and off the track.

Man I have not read this thread for a long long time, I can't belive how elaborate you guys get and then add all that extra piping in the already busiest spot on the engine would drive me nuts to work around yuk yuk yuk.:2cents:The guy who bought the Walker airsep I had on my 02 loves it and I still like my garden hose approach dumping it out behind the engine., I even rerouted the one on my 05 as it dripped on the front diff housing right above the pinion by the yoke and made it look like I have a leaky pinion seal so I added hose to it and did the same as my 02 and ran it through the frame towards the back and out the next hole.

Are they selling you a brand new complete rear axle assembly and marking it up 499% or what for that price?:doh:Danas can be a pain to set up and shim correctly and if you have never done one before and do not have tooling it is best left to someone ho has the capability but there should be no reason for it to be more than a few hundred bucks. A full bearing and shim kit can be bought for about 100 bucks and it is only about 4-6 hours of labor for a skilled person to do. At least that is what it took me to do one completely with rebuilding the carrier and replacing the ring and pinion, even less time if it is just a pinion bearing and the carrier bearings are still good.If you do decide to do it and do need to rebearing the carrier along with the pinion I can lend you my Dana setup bearings, just pay shipping to and fro.:thumbup2:Set up bearings have a larger inside diameter so they slip on and off without the need to press and pull 25 times to get the right shim pack thickness on the carrier bearings, the pinion bearings do not require these, just tap things on and off with a hammer.Usually things will be very close if you reuse the same carrier and same ring and pinion, you can get buy with the same shims that were originally in the same spots.Have you actually seen the oil that came out and looked at the magnet to see if there was metal apparent to indicate a bad bearing and another thing is if you can not physically move the pinion by pushing up down side to side ect to indicate play I would find it hard to believe a pinion bearing is failing, you would be getting a bad howl and if you turn the yoke slowly you could feel it grinding or rough.It is easy enough to pop the carrier and pinion out just to inspect things without messing anything up. Dana 80's are notorious for spinning the carrier races in the housing under the caps, this is one thing to watch for too when you take it apart.This too is easily fixed, I just took the caps to a belt sander and took a couple thousanths off the face and then center punch peened the inner surface of the cap and the diff housing where the race rides to make for a tighter fit this too will require more shims to spread the bearing out to tighten the gap it grind out on the side axle spots, I just took a 90* die grinder with buffer wheel and smoothed the areas up where the spacer washers sits against the axle tube.In short my opinion is to get a second opinion because the shop you had it at is trying to rake you over the coals and in a bad way too. Like I am saying you do not "suspect" a bad pinion bearing when they go bad it becomes apparent very quickly this just throws all sorts of red flags about the shop you are going to..Danas rarely fail pinion bearings unless a driveline was extremely out of balance or it has other things failing internally which creates metal to wear out the pinion bearings, the most common thing is carrier bearings failing and there races spin inside the caps and this starts the ball rolling for other failures.

And I was getting beat up by someone here a while back talking about how the Vp44 was fairly capable of 700 fuel only.:clap:Found the video, 1978 torque...........

I just wrap on the tire or inside of the rim with a 2lb dead blow turn wheel 180 and keep this up until it lets loose.I actually have had to get after it with a 10 lb dead blow a few times.Actually you can use a big flat faced hammer and wrap on the flat surface where it mates to the hub to break the rust loose first.

According to the list all Dodge rams from 06 on have them.

1800+, do not do any tighter at all or you will be very unhappy as a daily driver or tow rig.1600 is a super tight converter, usually drag racers are the only that go low but that seems way to low for even them.

I can't live and function without a limited slip, on clutch styles I always restack the clutches for a tighter locker like function the way they are supposed to be. I do not mind the ratcheting on dry pavement cornering.By the way you have a power lock limited slip which is the strongest one there is, you can tell by the V shaped cross shaft.This carrier puts more force on the clutches with the more differential force put on it.The most common limited slip is the trac-loc which has full round cross shaft, nothing wrong with it either.