Me78569

I think we are best to leave pop within what bosch specs. 297-327 bar. I think a set of 7 x .009's might have stalling issues at 330 bar, where as a set of say 7 x .12's won't. the cold start issues That @kzimmer and I have had at 350 makes it a little concerning for dd use. I do hope mine settle some and cold cold starts wont be an issue. I cannot afford to have the truck not start at -20*f if I need it too. I also can't say that we have enough data to say that everyone and their brother should be running higher pop, in fact I am still quite the oposite. If you want to run them, there may be perks, but you may run into issues. The stock bar injectors could run as smooth with correct mods to the tune, but in doing so you would loose some offidle power. We might also find that stepping down a size in injectors is a better fit than increasing pop if the person does not care about all out power, like myself. I am sure I would be happy with 7 x .011's at stockish bar. I just dont want people jumping on the "band wagon" if that makes sense. I see perks and downfalls. Honestly I dont know if hte normal person would even notice the difference in the 330 bar I liked so much vs the stock bar setup. I dont think we are reinventing the wheel here. I really don't think the perks are that huge overall. I like the reduced smoke offidle, I like the under the curve power I seem to feel. but a lot of that may be related to my altitude as well. A sea level you may not notice much difference. So just consider all of that. Power to you if you like to play with stuff, but don't think increasing pop pressure is going to cure anything.

That's WAY too much of a jump. It should stay very stable engine off. Does the 5V source wire have steady and good 5v? Does the ground have steady 0.00 resistence to ground? If both are yes then get a Cummins Map sensor. I believe all 3 of those sensors are on the same 5v buss so you might have an issue in the ecm, or the wiring leading to the sensors.

Iquad and create yourself a tune that fits your needs. I am huge fan of big injectors then tuning to control them. Even on a stock turbo I wouldn't get anything under 7 x .010 VCO's

that actually one of my favorite features of the ADR, from a user point of view. Your screen is not tied to the box under the hood, if Quadzilla comes out with a new screen you can just plug it in if you want it. there is no propiertary coding to make the screen work. there will never be anything other than code changes to the box under the hood, it has all the power it needs to accomplish the task at hand. No need to upgrade the module.

7. I really doubt the atomize fuel better. Bosch would use the same nozzle design on both.

yea I think 350 is a little high. but 330 seemed to be pretty nice for me.

ensure the default tune is selected prior to oonnecting the module. it should work then, you wont have the timing and canbus sensors, but it should read everything else.

You did it all right, the MPG stuff is in the base flash, the vehicle profile has not been updated yet for the functions on the screen. they are waiting on an update from the developer . When they do push that update you will see the mpg stuff.

older stable releases. The 2.7 has everything in it. the olders.

2.7 is stable and has a good number of improvements. You will have to update the vehicle profile on the iquad

you gotta also remember, Stock timing at 65 mph is ~12*, mike is running 17-18* so he is still well advanced vs the above map.

Popping revving white smoke and a code. the only other thing that can cause the code is low lift pump pressure, but the fact that added timing makes it worse tells me that this only happens when you are near the end of the timing pistons movement range. If you clear the code and it doesn't come back then run some 2 stroke in each tank and hope for the best. If it has lived for this long then you might be ok as long as you arn't throwing a ton of timing at it. still highly recommend unstacking completely. you are doing yourself no favors. If you want to know why

I would bet dimes to dollars your new pump has issues in the timing piston sleeve.

They have a 815 bosch test bench? There is no other test bench that can do anything to rebuilt a vp44. The Bosch 815 bench is a VERY spendy unit, last time I heard you are looking at north of 500k for one by the time you buy it and get licensing for it. P0216 literally means the vp44 could not advance timing as far as the requested amount. %99 of the time this is due to a galled up timing piston. The fact that it only happens whent he smarty is also doing timing tells me that the timing sleeve is galled up near full advance. Again you REALLY dont want to stack timing boxes. don't run the smarty on odd levels, but the code is telling you the vp is unable to advance timing like it should.

simply put, the truck ecm calibration is made for stock injectors. This means that at 55 mph you need ~ %30 throttle input, the above map is using that %30 input to see what timing to command. By adding 50 hp injectors you might only need %25 throttle to move down the road at the same 55 mph, thus putting you in a lower part of the above map, giving you more timing.

where did you get this "rebuilt" vp44 from? Do they have a Bosch 815 test bench? Sounds like a shotty rebuild to me. you cannot "rebuild" a vp44 without a 815 test bench. stacking those tuners in that manner is a REALLY bad idea. Not only are you shoving %100 of your fueling possible under %20 throttle input, but you are also stacking timing. The smarty is already VERY timing aggressive down low, and the edge is just adding more on top. I am honestly shocked it runs worth of darn. If you want the butt dyno feeling that the stack gives you get some 7 x .009 or 7 x .010 injectors and unstack the setup.

It is my belief that bigger injectors allow you to utlize a different part of the ecm timing maps. Here is the Static State Map, ( not changing rpm, tps, etc) Y axis is rpm, X is how much fuel is being commanded. Note how timing falls off as rpms come up in the 25 35 columns. So by using bigger injectors you need less duration to produce the same power to move down the road at a given speed. Less duration means you are in a more advanced area of the map, and thus get more timing, which leads to better mpg.

Just wait. Been there done this. Dont run them together it will cause issues. It might just be 3 cyl mode, I dont know, but it will create a very unhappy situtation. no something that should be recommended to people.

I did rerun the 0 -60 test this morning after fixing the boost leaks, Guess what I found.. nadda difference in all 3 sets to 60 lol.. close enough not to matter I guess. ( for me at least)

@beren Bosch specs 297- 327 bar as acceptible. The only thing that i could see wear faster is the nozzle seat. The lines could care less, I also doubt the plungers in the pump care. The pump is already overcoming that extra pressure every stroke, remember the pump builds pressure faster than the tip can flow it. So there is always more pressure than pop pressure in the lines / being generated. @kzimmer I almost wonder if we need more timing when cold if pop is high like that. It stands to reason the pop delay would be highest at low rpms, then add cold fuel to the mix and we might not be getting enough timing to fire it off.

import went away because IOS would not allow it. The json file extension should auto link in andriod.

the map looks to be working right. Boost leak is next. I also leave the intake track together to check for leaks at the horn, or intake gaskets ( very often blow out)

@kzimmer temps got down to ~0*f last night. the truck was noticably harder to start than the 330 bar setup. Dunno if I will see colder this winter or not, but I could see issues getting it to fire at ~ -20*f and below.