Me78569

so you have 0 lockup? If so check out your boost valve in the valve body, http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/622743-valve-body-parts-tranny-pan-help-i-d.html

Cad is the vacuum actuated collar on the front axle that locks the inner shaft to the other. This is needed to engage 4wd. How are your fluid levels? There is a syncing ring in the transfer case. Tear down is easy and we have an article for it.

how fast does it lock and unlock? IE in 5 seconds how many times will it lock and unlock? Could be TC shudder from a bad TC. Could be a leak in the VB, or a bad lockup solenoid.

hahahahaha he's going blow a colon gasket in no time lifting that load.

When will you guys learn that our trucks run on diesel and air, not hose clamps and filters sorry for the bad luck.

click the link I posted above. What speed do you generally tow at? What rpm do you see typically at that speed.

what size tires? I plugged in stock tires to the gearing calc, and I can't see needing to get revs up in 5th if you have stock tires.

I will rebuild mine from this point forward, but my OEM calipers were in pretty rough shape. Not work the hassle for the $30 I paid for the caliper.

I have a rubber mat in mine. I really like it.

use the part number lookup tool to find the part number and go to the dealer.

I have not seen any bio blend stickers yet here. I wish I did, but oh well.

any difference when you unplug the ABS computer?

What codes are you getting firstly? I would not go the cheap route. The apps is a fairly complex device. I simply don''t believe they can reproduce it for what they are selling.

Does your truck have any ABS?

In order to swap the VP you prob unplugged the apps.

I am going to go with tyler's guess, I am betting the apps is not plugged in completely.

Test for Voltage come from the TPS sensor at idle position and WOT. It should increase from ~0.46 v to ~3.6 v as you increase TPS. use a paper clip to connect to the wire. I think it is pin 3 on the 6 pin apps connector. also test for AC noise in your system, regardless of how "new" your alternator is. Many many many new ones are bad out of the gate.

agree'd

Again if you want more power than a 62 can support and you tow I would highly suggest you go with twins. You can see why I say that in this spreadsheet I plugged in your 35's and you 3.55 rear end. Your effective gearing with 35's is about 3.05's. Effectively you won't be able to use OD unless you are doing 80+, which I hope you don't tow at that speed. look at the mph per gear in the dark green. That is where you will be able to efficiently tow. With a 63 and bigger your revs would really need to be 2k+ when towing to overcome the effective gearing reduction due to larger tires. you will just generate heat towing at a lower rpm. Now look at the gearing split between 3rd and OD. The larger turbo is REALLY going to make that gap stand out. you will be revving pretty high, too high for good mpg, in 3rd and you will be lacking revs in OD to not generate heat.

It is hard to have your cake and eat it too. I would not suggest anything bigger than a 62 if you tow a lot, if you want more power while towing you need to start considering twins. What rear end gearing do you have? that will play a huge role in your turbo choice.

Do you have a power goal? How much and how heavy do you tow? If I was going to upgrade I would do a 62 sxe with a gated 12.

the video clearly looks / sounds like there is air in the system.

I would guess your issue is in the wiring. I would check the junction above the drivers front tire. All the bed wiring goes through that junction. It can get pretty nasty due to all the road stuff that cna get kicked up.

Even with bad tuning on my vgt the dfi injectors were %99 clean at sea level. I was shocked, but you could go from a stop sign, floor it to %100 and all you got out the tail pipe was VERY light haze. I only you "haze" because you could see VERY VERY light fumes out of the tailpipe. I could have EASILY passed the same emissions we have here in colorado down at sea level with the tuner turned up. Here is a short video of my lugging the motor while going WOT with the turner off down near sea level. Up here in colorado not so much, but that is just the nature of the beast AKA altitude......

looks like they sell 12v 24v and cr stuff. I don't really ever trust marketing like this, but who knows. I am very happy with my DFI injectors so that is all I need.