notlimah

So I'm running a drawstraw in the basket, but I feel that the majority of people have issues with them due to improper installation. Plus I think the ol' adage of "you only hear about the problems on the internet" reins true here as well. Either way, the flip flop of one to another doesn't make sense to me as it only adds more work, but who knows!

I'll give that a go when I get a chance Mike!

Well battery cables aren't an issue for me, I replaced every cable in there about 6 months ago. My batteries aren't that old, but I've never felt like they've cranked the cummins over like they should. Having two trucks proves that as my 99 with interstates in it will sit for a few weeks at a time without running and will fire up almost before I have the key fully turned. The 02 which is driven almost daily has a slight delay.

Thanks guys, I'll have to ask some friends for their Costco memberships so I can check out the interstates. I'm pretty sure I have 65s currently, but they're all wonky. Did you modify the stock battery box? Couldn't find any blem batteries on my local CL. I'll keep an eye out though.

Hey guys, sorry to revive this thread but it seems like my batteries are starting to go south on me. It's been getting a little colder here and the truck is still starting fine, but I can tell that it's turning over slightly slower then it was before. If I understand correctly, group 27, 34 and 65 are all correct matches for OEM specs right? I have the plastic bucket in mine and currently my batteries sit a little crooked in them so I'd like to get slightly smaller ones so they'll fit correctly. I know everyone raves about the WalMart batteries but they get horrible reviews on their site, should I still consider these?

Yup! Either way I think it'll look good. I thought about doing the same thing on the wife's truck. She has a 2014 GMC Sierra and the rear bumper has cutouts for foot holds, which are just plastic and get really slippery when even a little damp, so I figured if I had line-x spray it, it would help add some 'tacky-ness' but the guy at the shop told me it'd be a waste of time as the line-x gets just as slippery. I was pretty surprised by that but I took his advise and saved my money lol. Honestly, you'll probably be fine either way since you had the rubber foot stops, and since you have left over spray liner, I'd just line it!

Pssssshhhhhhh school?! Masters?! meh! j/k! At least you're busy doing important things! My point with bedliner on the rails is unless you have a super cheap discount on it, then just paint em. They're both as slippery when wet if you miss the rubber piece so it's really just a preference thing!

Dude where you been?!? I vote paint, bed liner gets slippery when wet unless you make it ultra rough, but slickness + leg day = mega fail

I had no idea that bluetop was such a small operation. That makes me tend to want to do business with them rather then 'the big guys!'

Missing emails get lodged in there somehow?! Im all seriousness, I'd lean towards a spring and perch issue. Possibly spring is slightly shorter on that side and slightly coming out of place causing the noise.

DDRP would be better then the Airtex IMO. Still get bigger fuel lines or you'll see a huge drop is pressure under any circumstances other then idle. Here's your fuel pressure tester

Better HFRR improvement, lower mixing ratios, cheaper

I'm waiting to run out of 2 stroke and I'm going to start running opti-lube summer+

Is the piece that broke look like this? If so, it'll be fine. When installing a drawstraw system in place of in tank pump you're supposed to remove that piece. Although that screen is extremely dirty compared to what mine looked like, so if I were you, I'd be adding some good filtration. A couple reasons the Airtex isn't cutting it is 1. It's an Airtex and 2. Sounds like you still have the insanely restrictive stock fuel lines. If you want to even give the Airtex (or any lift pump) a chance to provide adequate fuel pressure, you have to replace those lines with at least 3/8, but preferably 1/2 just to know you'll never have restriction issues.

I can't really give you a good idea of what you could be experiencing, especially since the motor was just rebuilt. I'm sure @TFaoro will be able to point you in the right direction as he's he rebuild master around these parts!

It'd make things easier to just swap ECMs between the trucks. Otherwise a Smarty will be needed to flash the ECMs to the correct auto/manual tunes. Honestly, if you're trucks are identical minus the auto/manual, then I'd say just trade trucks! haha

I'd say if I were going to keep a sore pump, I'd just have it installed and ready to plug in and go. If I was ever in a situation where my main lift pump failed, last thing I'd want to worry about would be installing my backup!

Couldn't get the video to play on my phone. I've used a DB reader from an app I downloaded and pretty sure it's 90+ DB if I remember right with just the door open and engine idling. I can run the numbers again if you're curious.

I didn't even know an adjustable overflow valve for the VP was a thing!

Well, there goes your cool points! J/k! That's really impressive Nick, glad all the hard work and tinkering has payed off for you!

I'd replace your factory fuel line from the filter to VP with a big line kit from Vulcan. Obviously those lines would get chucked. The other lines that are back on the frame going to the tank can just be left alone unless your OCD won't allow it. Carter pump can be left as a backup/fail-safe/primer or tossed.

Man, talk about tread!! Looks good, it'll be interested to hear how loud they are.

Yup they'll see it and chime in if they can help out.

A/C noise in the system? Cleaned all grounds and cable connections? Filters on tight enough? All connections tight to the Airdog and VP? Whens the last time the spring and ball was checked? These are just things that come to mind to check for this kind of situation. It's hard to think that a relay would go bad as they're quite robust, but if yours in melted a bit then obviously, that could be the issues. You could always check the voltage you're receiving and see if it falls within standards.

Yea I'm with @dripley on this one. If you've checked what was recently changed enough to verify that's good, move on to other culprits. I think when doing something as drastic to the fuel system as changing injectors, it could cause something else to dislodge or come loose that otherwise wouldn't of everything was left alone. I'd checked the those two areas on the fuel lines and see if that doesn't fix it. If not then at least you can move down the fuel system and keep trouble shooting.