01cummins4ever

Sucks to hear this @TFaoro you got my eyes and ears open down in this part of the state, I'm heading to the springs area via 160 and I 25 as I write this I'll keep my eyes open

that's the next step is just to take the valve off completely, and splice the lines together. I agree just another example of over engineering

So I finally got some time and crawled under the Dodge and popped the lever off the load adjustment valve. I raised it all the way up and it actually fell back to the 11:00 position so I just tied it down there and went with it. Took it for a test and It stops what I would say is normal. Even at 50 mph on gravel road it did not want to lock up on moderate braking. So thanks for the tip guys my lazy rear brakes finally woke up and are going to start pulling thier weight

another satisfied customer with isspro, I got the 3 gauge set and pillar from Vulcan. they had the best price out there. The electric fuel gauge and column mount came from Genos years ago, and so far so good. I even kept the fuel pressure warning light stuck in the 12v. accessory plug just for extra precaution.

Yep, been there, my first go round with my fuel system was from the dealer. And with a bill of about 3 grand, and a little over a year later everything they did ended up in the trash can, and vp sent away as a core. As far as having a back up pump I carry a spare AD 100 just because I got a deal on a used one. ( hopefully I will never need it) but I have a brass ball valve installed in the suction side line, just to stop the flow of fuel incase I ever do have to remove pump or change it. Also hope you do have a fuel pressure gauge, that's about the best insurance you can have.

Heater core and evaporator from Oriely about a year ago, I think Murray was the brand, No issues as of yet, Prices were not to expensive, comparable to the rest of chain stores. Just labor intensive

I have to agree with @dripley I don't understand the lingo either, but still very interested, The time in the near future is coming to breathe some new life into my old engine, and I know where I'm going to go for advise. Keep up the good work guys

the wood they use on the demonstrations is always knot free and probably well seasoned, so easy splitting, What about continuous duty and knotty wood, If the logs get hung up in the wedge you would probably have to beat it out with a sledge, just extra work.but other than that it would probably work fine for the light duty stuff

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/ A web site I visit on occasions, a lot of good infro on their. I know that the kinetic splitters have been improving a lot and going with a company like DR. you might get a quality one, but the electric or hydraulic ones in the 6-10 ton range are no more than bench top or inside shop splitting, and don't think they would keep up with the heavier stuff if your relying on heating your entire house with wood. I personally use a 3 point log splitter mounted to a 25 horse kubota, I built my self and got less than 500 in it. It serves me well with about 6 -10 cords a year, but probably wouldn't keep up with the high production splitting.

It's only an extra 25 a month for me for full coverage on top of the required liability and that's with a 1000 deductible. but at least if something does happen I will get something out of it.

I was having temp issues similar to yours, and then my radiator sprung a leak. I had to replace it, I went with the spectrum, a little tweaking to get everything lined up on the radiator support but not to bad. Nothing wrong with the oem radiator if you can clean it but you do have to pull it to clean it good. Between my replacement radiator and the mopar1973man crankcase vent mod, I have no more overheating issues even towing up the steep grades.

I wonder if it was one of those automatic or semi automatic trucks

ok thanks, mike. I will have to move this up on my to do list.

and what would that be? I have heard of people changing out the wheel cylinders but haven't looked into it to much

My rear drums are lazy...... I think they are on just looking for a free ride

yep, you got it going on with your set up, with the auto trans our trucks are probably working 3 times as hard as yours trying to stop, I haven't looked into alternative braking for the auto trucks a lot, but do know they are available, maybe one of these days when the funds are right. but until then I will just keep throwing pads on, I'm on my second set of rotors at 280k, but I change pads about every 40 or 50k and they still have life left in them when I change them

its oem or semi metalic for me, I would never consider ceramic pads due to brake fading and rotor warping due to high heat, i

Yes do new pads, if you can find a good machine shop to do your rotors and within spec you will be fine. And that's two less rotors you have to throw away and two less rotors that have to come from China

I will have to try some simple green, I havnt done a good cleaning on mine since I put tires on 3 years ago, now It's time for tires again

Nice job, what did you use to clean the aluminum?

Yep, I've always leaned toward the petroleum based products too, but reason for asking is that I have been running the penz. Synthetic 2 stroke lately since that's whatI I run in the outboard I just stock up on that particular brand, and it seems to have made the vp more quiet than before when using the super tech. I just was wondering the long term effects

So, is their any disadvantages of using synthetic 2 stroke such as the Pennzoil synthetic outboard oil? or is it more of a cost issue?

I got 400.00 in the axle assemblies, plus another 100. or so for new pipe and wet bolt kit and bushings. The axles are not mobilehome, they are 5200 lb. each and came with 2500 lb. springs and brakes on each axle. and tires are ST 235/80/16 I got about 90% of this project done, Ill get some pics posted of what I done, I did end up cutting the axles in half and adding a sleeve 3/12 OD with a 1/4 wall, that slipped just right over the existing axle tube. I bought these off a co worker who hauled water to his place, He upgraded his trailer to 7K axles being he was over loading it with his large water tank, I think it was a 1000 gal. or maybe bigger, but he done it continuously for the last couple of years and by going the same route, same hills, and corners and 15 mi. of wash board road, it was finally taking a toll on the trailer, so there was a little damage but nothing bent, just wore out bearings and tires getting a little chewed up.

being on the subject of old nostalgic rigs, I hauled this one up to our main shop in Denver a couple weeks ago, Its been siting at our location since I started about 20 years ago. Its fixing to get a total restoration and maybe become a museum piece or parade truck, If no one knows what it is, Its an early 1930's colman, (state highway plow) and the blower head on the rear of trailer was what was on the front, it had a patent date from sno go corporation of 1928.

SWIFT S sure W.wished I. F. finished T. training