Rogan

so apparently, a CR injector has an a-hole.. LOL

A good Hella link for a rough idea how the lights are.. http://www.hella.com/MicroSite/eliver_US-Version/index.html - - - Updated - - - Are the '96 ones mounted "to" the grill? Are they the same style you have under your '02s bumper?

two words, Russ: LIQUID NAILSI've built speaker enclosures (12"x12"x12") and glued them together with liquid nails, and used 1" drywall screws (pre-drilled) to cobble it together until it dried.. then took the screws out, and threw it across the parking lot to break it, to which it did break apart.. but not at the glued joints..When I did mobile audio/video installation for a living, I always used LN. Most of my enclosures for woofer cabinets were made from 1/2, 3/4, or 1" MDF. Always pre-drill and counter-sink your screws to flush the head.

how do you not tear them off, or at least fold them under, in snow and/or off-road excursions?

I could soooo take this somewhere... all in all (having owned a version of the Impreza) they're VERY dependable and rarely suffer failures. And they're flat-out phenomenal in in-climate weather conditions. Even with 500whp on tap and the 18" Z-rated hp tires, it would go just about anywhere I pointed it, in the snow, with little to no effort. Until it just got too deep.. I've pushed a lot of snow over the bumper, grill and hood in mine. When I put Blizzaks on it, it was almost unstoppable.

The Hella 500s wont fit in OE locations; they're about 6.5" diameter, and about 2.5-2.75" thick.a creative bracket mount will fit them behind the grill with ample lighting shining through.Just use the bumper lip or something to secure the bracket and not the grill.. They'll be shaky on the grill..

I crawled under it this evening and found nothing wrong.. I tweaked the trans-side cable bracket but it didn't make much difference.. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 - - - Updated - - - Apparently we don't have (m)any auto transmission gurus here.. :sad: Here's what I have/use: * 1-2-D controlled by the gear selector (as normal) OD now controlled by a toggle switch that grounds the 3-4 shift wire (this wire no longer connected to the PCM; it is soley operable via the grounding toggle. * LU is performed via a grounding toggle switch. LU will also be performed when requested by PCM as this wire still connects to the PCM (unlike the OD wire) What I noticed this morning on the way to work, is that the LU will occur on it's own (with LU toggle "off" ), when I flip the "on" OD toggle at 40mph, or if I flip OD on at say, 35mph, the LU will occur around 40. It used to occur @ ~48-50mph BEFORE I fixed the OSS connections to the PCM.

Wait til she wants you to replace a head gasket on the Impreza! Don't worry, though. They can be done in the car.

So I drove it this morning.. it's shifting really really early.. like 1-2 @ 8-10mph, and 2-3 around 17-18mph.. I've not adjusted the TV cable yet, but plan to try that before I leave work this afternoon, so to test on my way home. Also, I hooked up my scanner to the obd2 port, and monitored the TPS %. In idle position, is shows about 27-28%. WOT shows 62-65%, depending on how hard you push it down. Idling, the engine also shows 14% load?? - - - Updated - - - I checked the tv cable at lunch... it's pulled all the way out on adjustment, and still a tad slack between the cable end and the throttle linkage. When I get home after work, I'll crawl under and check the linkages and springs on the transmission-end of the cabling.. I'm at a loss, otherwise. the tv cable is rather new, by the looks of it and the parts tag is still nice, clean, and intact.

I've had my old 4500 do it once or twice.. usually when transitioning from on/off throttle.. I think it was attributed to my just not fully seating the shifter.

Depends on the size you want and money you want to spend..Hella 500s are really good for the money. They're fairly pencil-beamed, and usually around $50-70/pr.

If I read it right, the schematics state (to me, anyway) that it is 110VAC input, and the transformer steps everything up inside.On the NOTES section of the schematic, read the first note. "If 220V is used, the transformer is not." or something along those lines.

Looking forward to seeing the write-up and pics!

Here I figured the dual 750s were due to the heater grid demands, not the starter.. I've started my old CTD with a cheap jump box with not a single battery in the truck.. Of course it was a mid-summer morning.

My blue '96 slipped time on the IP and popped the exhaust then shut off, not to refire.. My buddy came over and in 20-25*F night air, with a flashlight, reset my IP timing.. So yes, it can and has happened

Funny you say that. I was jsut reading about how there's quite a few guys that had issues with early shifting, etc.. Then they (12 valve guys) went with a potentiometer mod, rather than replace the $300 TPS.. I'm exploring this option, now, as it's about $5 in Radio Shack parts. Also, I'm curious if the two codes that I'm now getting are related to the TCC manual lock switch mod and toggle-controlled OD shift mod I'm running.. BUT, I've got the Trans relay jumpered, and it's making good connections.. EDIT: Adjusting the TV cable

Nowadays, there much more crap in the radio waves, but you cab still talk a good ways. I've got a base radio and have talked skip to Nebraska from Virginia, with no linear and just an omni-directional antenna. I've talked about 15-18mi recently on my 148GTL and 100w linear in the truck with a Wilson 1000. Also, Virginia state police still monitor 9, as well as most of the county sheriff cruisers Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

UPDATE:So I got a spare PCM plug from the wrecker yard yesterday. Today, I disassembles C2 and pinned in B25 and B28 ( as stated before, they're non-existant in my manual plugs).I then wired in the OSS to these wires. Also as ststed before, OSS pin1 goes to C2 (B28). However, the OSS plug wasn't numbered, and the wire colors do not match the FSM diagram colors. It is an AC type wave-circuit, so it doesn't really matter which is which, so I wire'd them in up anyway.I went to clear codes, only to find the I.O.D. fuse blown, so I replaced it. I knew something was amiss as my dome light didn't come on, and the key buzzer wasn't working.Cleared my OSS code, and took a test drive. It still shifts 1-2 and 2-3 before I even get to 20mph.So I came home and checked codes again, and got 2 new codes (I didn't see them before the test drive, but I didn't really check, I just cleared codes.)P1765 - Transmission 12V Supply Relay Control CircuitP0753 - 3-4 Shiflt Solenoid Circuit.No idea why.. I'm assuming the trans is in a sort of 'Limp Mode' so it short-shifts.??More checking to do, once I thaw out (34*F and breezy here)

All in how you look at it I guess. :-)Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I could use a few beers right about now.. Happy thanksgiving to everyone. I'd like to take a quick moment to say "thank you". Thank you to each and every one of you who have made this site what it is today: A knowledgeable, fun, entertaining, educational, and all-out great place to e-hang out. And most of all, thank you to Michael for hosting, administering and keeping this ship afloat behind the scenes.

Found it! LOL Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

I've been fighting quite a number of gremlins in this '97 3500 since the *** I got it..Today, it left me walking.. Starter, or something..It goes "click" when you hit the key. I didn't think it was a battery issue (even though they are in dire need of replacement), but I tried to jump-start it anyway.. no luck. Took a hammer and tapped on the starter case (old school method) to no avail..Solenoid definitely clicks ONCE, but no sign of starter spin at all.No hints of this thing planning to take a dump, leading up to this.. just BAM.. or "click."So now, it's sitting in my work parking lot.I'm going tomorrow morning to fiddle with it (as it's dark now) and will check for voltage at the main lug, etc., before removing the starter. It's an auto, so there's no chance of "bump-starting" it.. Or is there? I've got a TCC lockup switch, so I could theoretically get it rolling and throw the switch to it.. But, that's just wild thinking, I'm sure..Suggestions? Think it may be contacts?

Hello, Clark, and welcome to the forum. Since this was your first post, it could be considered as spam; especially since it's about 'selling' something. Please take a moment to create an introduction thread here: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/20-Introductions Thanks, Rogan

actually, I believe the pass. side is primary.