dripley

Another vote for DAP. Dont buy a pump from anyone who sells a pump not built by a certified rebuilder. Make sure they put new electronics it, they still can be had with old computers on them. The electronic and mechanical updates are the only way to go. A lot has changed from the OE. Check out Blue Chip diesel's trouble shooting guide for VP's. Might give you a little piece of mind on the diagnosis. As far as lift pumps I have an AIR Dog. There is also FASS in the electric side. Then Glacier diesel and the DTT assasin on the mechanical side. I have no experience with the mechanical ones but many here swear by them. My AD has failed twice in 8 years but AD has honored the warranty both times. They did have problems a while back but I hope the new 4g pump will be with me for a long time, dont know yet. Some others will chime in on that I am sure. Get at the minimum a fuel pressure gauge so you can keep an eye on the fuel system's health. You dont have to get rid of the factory filter if you dont want to. Mine is still on the truck as others have and some eleminate it. Kind of a personal prefrence. It works fine either way.

Pretty sure my Coopers are R rated at 106.

I would have to agree with @KATOOM and @IBMobile . Any manufacture can build the same part to different specifacations. It does work the other way too sometimes. I replaced my right side cruise button on the steering wheel. The Mopar was a good bit pricier than RA but when I got the part it was the same one used for the oe. SMP with the same part number. I do the picture is more an exception than the rule. How to know is the question.

Pretty much my experience except there was only one. This happened back in 01 when my truck was brand spanking new.

I was responding to the coffee part if this thread. Get ahout 4 or 5 cups in you and it will bypass your EGR.

Throw you some Amaretto and Irish cream in there and you will have the coffee that made chickens famous.

Try a big rig parts house. I just put a set of used 6.7 rocker assemblies on my 2nd gen. Other than the updated rocker shaft they are the same parts. As I remember new the parts were reasonable and less than 500 bucks for a set. I went used because no one seem to know if they would fit. Less money to risk for me. They were not as cheap as you mention at all but a good bit less than 500 bucks.

I buy 265's and call them 265's. They came on the truck and I like them. No muss no fuss.

As I remember I bought a kit off of amazon the had 2 pieces 8' long of 00 welding cable both red and black and some terminals that I soldered on. Had some black left over but the kit was very reasonable and I did have some terminals on hand. IIRC the terminal ends were both 3/8". I got the exact lengths when removing the old ones. I replaced all my cables for about 70 bucks including military style battery terminals. It was quite easy to do. Exact numbers I dont know.

All but 2 of the codes you have are injection pump related. Mine went at 75k also but failed differently than yours. We have seen a few folks with some high mileage out of the oe pump but that is a bit uncommon. Some pumps fail where you cant drive it and others like mine would still drove but poorly. Some give some warning while others just fail out of the blue. I ahve about 260k on my current pump who knows when it will give up. This has seen good fuel pressure with an Air Dog fuel pump and 2 stroke oil for almost all of its life.

I would say it is VP time by the looks of it.

If you are running 35's should you not plug that in? Just curious here. Thats the tire diameter and not the sidewall as best I know. I dont how the smarty accounts for it though.

The only dumb question is the one you dont ask. We all learn by asking those questions. Never let yhat bother you. I am still learning.

I dont have a quad on mine but I have read of several folks boost and egt's being skewed from what the quad reads compared to after market gauges. So the problem does exist for some.

I guess I should have stated that I have 3:55 gears. And as @Mopar1973Man states the 5 and 6 speed tranny's top 2 gears are almost identical. You can see that tire size makes a difference. I dont pay to much attention the the mph and rpm in my truck unless I am cruising in 5th or 6th.

In 6th gear I am turning 2000 rpm at 70 mph and IIRC in 5th gear I am turning 2000 rpm at 60 mph. This is on 265 75 16's. Tire size will make a difference. It would appear yours is 4:10 gears. Look at the sticker on your glove box door and it should be printed there. At least that would tell you it came with.

Do you mean it shuts while the pedal is on the floor or when you get out of it?

We prefer ours blackened.

And we use the large ones to shove in the over head vents and we dont care about no stinking handles either.

I still have my oe turbo and there is no play in it at all. Never checked for play till around 250k. Still that way today.

Technically we are still taking about intakes and @Mopar1973Man did mention it first. But you are still correct.

Not sure bolt dropping disease but when I replaced my head gasket I stuffed some shop rags in the intake. Had it it all hooked up so I figured starting the engine would be a good idea. I new it would sound different with the intake horn off and it did when it fired off. I am stand there watching every thing work and it was pretty cool watching the valve train working. Then glance at the intake and see the rags slowly being sucked in. Jumped around and shut the engine off and pulled the out.

It sounds like your loosing prime of the fuel system. Just early signs of it any way. It could easily be the return, back of the head or tee it connects to. It is possibly for it to leak air into the system and not see a leak. Thats how mine started out but a leak did finally show. I went thru this again about a yeaar ago it turned out to be a bad cross over tube O ring letting some air in.

This portion of the article is sponsered by @JAG1 Bolt Dropping Service Inc. Droping things is our specialty.

@Dieselfuture's head is now to big to fit thru a normal door opening.