dripley

I dont think I would install yet. Get the truck running right and then install.

I did that's why I built my own. Checked several places and the good ones were quite pricey imho. They appear to good quality of that there is no doubt.

Might like it better for the 3rd wheel. That is interesting.

Good advice above. I redid my battery cables about a year ago with 2/0 welding cable and soldered ends on military terminals formabout $140. Quite easy to do.

At key on you should get that little bump you describe. If you turn it further and just bump the starter, no engine start, you should get the 25 seconds of fuel pump run. It is 2 separate actions. As far as the used ECM, it needs to be a near perfect match on the trucks for it to work on yours. Are the cables used also?

Welcome. Just jump on in.

Have you checked for trouble codes? Though it does appear you have ECM issues a little research is better than throwing high dollar parts at it. A word of caution on ECM's, there are a lot of rebuilders out there. We do have a short list of ones folks have had good luck with. So be careful who you buy from.

Either turbo is still not going to get you out of tranny upgrades.

What voltage are you seeing? The out put voltage will vary depend on temprature. The PCM reads the temp sensor under the drivers battery and regulates the voltage. I have seen mine go from 13.2 to 14.2. The colder it is the higher voltage.

The j hook or turnbuckle will hold the waste gate closed. If you hold it open you build no pressure.

The above should work as described.

It really exists. Happy for you. Hope FCA release it soon.

I check everything a little more often these days with my hand on the tires and the wheel. Never paid much attention to the bearings until the second failed, not any warning on that one. Surpringly the second failed in less than a week after replacing the first one. The first one did not fail but was roaring at 65 mph and I figured to just replace it. It's only wheel bearing, nothing to it. Boy was I in for an education.

I seen you mention 25 cents a mile savings, what is that? I am missing something with that.

Even though I have a stick, it is what you dont see that is the most fun. No one ever expects my old beater to be capable of any thing, but it is even with my limited mods.

How does the Donaldson p550550 stack up? I bought some a while back and still have a couple left.

My first one failed slowly. Just had to replace. That was my introduction on removing said bearing. Not sure what was the most fun, learning how to get it out or paying for the replacement. The both pained me greatly. The second failed quickly with the experience you had though my truck was empty. The camper would be great multiplier in the pucker factor compared to empty. As far as the 200k life span, that is just this man's experience. Never spoke to anyone else.

I am not complaining about mine. Still lots of OEM stuff going strong. Might fail tomorrow but at 450k I ain't complaining. Hoping there is nothing wrong with the head I pull it that a machine shop cant cure. I have worked mine different than, pavement queen for the part. I have hauled some big loads down the road and she has never refused to do what though she does have a mind of her at times. Wish I had a garage to put mine in.

A lot of truth in that. Seen it on mine some.

My oe bearings lasted just over 200k. Replaced them and 200k oe so later did a front brake job and replaced them just because a had 2 laying around I bought off of member here who sold his truck. I gave him $150 bucks for the pair, brand not known. Never greased any of them. If the unknown ones go 200k I will most likely not be worried about changing them again. Plus i saved the ones i took off, they appear to still be good.

I like the signature. Sure makes it easy for all to see. Now if I can get some more folks to do the same. Looks like you are in good hands with your issues.

I just resealed mine. It was all working fine but seal between the case halfs had sprung a leak. I went thru 2 quarts in about 1000 miles. I used the article in the articles section here and some info @Haggar provided a while back on getting the brake rod off. Unfortunately due to the thunder storms I lacked the time to do this part. I hope that does not come back to haunt. Because I did have a small leak that showed up on the floor mat about 3 months back. So far nothing during the the trip to and from Maryland. All is working hotmstraight and normal. The job is not difficult. Getting to some of the bolts is not much fun especially under the dash. Just an awkward place to be. I did struggle a bit trying to get the case halfs back together. I either kept dropping either one of the springs or had a hard time lining up the spoolvalve and the power piston to get them back together. All an all not a difficult job just awkward.

I have been watching this one intently. I will be pulling my head for a weepy HG. Figured I might as go all the way with it while its off. I have neither smelled or seen evidence of my engine burning any oil. Guess I will get a better look when the head comes off.

I am done with the job in Maryland and now I will be doing one in SC. 435 miles one way to about 175 miles one. That's going to make my drives much nicer.

Mine is definitely a little war torn. Mostly not rusty. Just tripped 450k on mine.