dripley

My stick would do bit better than a auto. My in town Is more of an educated guess since with my travels I never burn a complete tank in town. Another thing I have to factor in is the winter and summer time when my truck is my office and it can end up idleing for 3 or 4 hours depending on how hot or cold it is out. But on the highway with my last VP and the Comp with the pump tapped I could consistently get 19 to 19.5 mpg running 70 to75 mph. I am down to 18.5 now on a new VP and the pump untapped. Going to tap this pump in the near future and see what happens.

Towing and in town driving would explain the low mileage. Towing my 5th wheel got me 11,5 mpg and around town like mentioned earlier about 14. The best I have ever seen is 22.5, interstate again. I dont have quad myself so I am not sure how to use one, My knowledge is limited to what I have read here. it is much more versatile that the Comp. It is mostly designed for a stock truck. Mine is smokey with the RV 275's and more so with the 50's that I have. Clears up pretty though, but I dont like the smoke. The quad gives you the ability to tune to what you have and not just to stock set up. But I like you might only se Arabic if I read the instructions. The Comp Just has power levels and you can adjust when the fuel comes a little. No ECO tune, you have to do that with your foot. Had a Banks tuner before that with no adjustments what so ever on it other than your foot.

Very cold weather and high cetane fuel that he was most likely running will do it too. And that was without the Comp. I dont run in near as cold as Mike and what little I have has not given me the benefit of really knowing my mpg in those situations. Plus if that was a lot in town driving that will bring the mileage down too. I can get around 14 mpg around town and in the winter. The 17 to 18 I refer to is on a highway/interstate run. I think @Mopar1973Manhas hit 27+ with his with some very specific driving habts for mileage. As far as new injectors go, have a look over on @dieselautopower. They can had for a lot less than IIRC on the Quad, check your engine load at idle and it ought to be around 8% to 10% for good performing injectors.

something like this.

I cant help with the quad part if you were only getting 12mpg before the quad something else is going on. Large tires, 4:10 gears maybe, tired injectors. I am running a Comp on mine and did pick up 1 mpg from 18.5 to 19.5 on a pure highway drive. Never heard of any one gaining 6 or 7 mpg from one. I have the same issues as @Mopar1973Manmentions with his. It does give decent power but you are better off with the Quad than the comp but you have to work at it some. In stock form these truck should get in the 17 to 18 mpg.

Just operate the door with vacuum line and vacuum switch of some sort. Should not be that difficult. And just so I understand, the upper portion of fan is pulling air in from above and the lower portion is pulling from underneath thru the drilled holes, in essence recirculating the cab air. Still seems you would pulling in some outside air from above if the recirc door was open to the outside and not in recirc mode. Less maybe.

I am the opposite on the zerks. If I can find good quality sealed thats the route I like. All my OE front suspension held up for 240k before changing them out. My drive shaft is all original. Of course 60% to70% of my miles are highway miles so that helps. I just dont like having to grease things.

I too detest wearing the masks but figure it is a small price to pay for me and all the other folks out there. I do not wear one at work though. the nature of the job tends to keep us apart but at times we do get bunched up. I do believe the deaths are somewhat exaggerated. When someone who has other underlying issues gets Covid and dies it is blamed on the covid alone when I feel it was just the straw that broke the camel's back. The common flu might have done the same thing. The whole thing is very serious and some extra cautions are warranted. In 1919 flu pandemic the US had 104 million or so folks we lost 675k. Folks protested wearing masked back then too. At work I have run into a few folks that have had it and gone thru it fairly easily. But then you see the folks hit hard by it and lost 1 or multiple family members to it. It is very real and personal for them.

in the late 01's and all of 02 it is really just a switch that comes on around 6 psi near as can find anyway. Then one of the computers takes over and moves the needle based on rpm and coolant temp. It does a good job. Fooled me for many years. Prior to this there was a real sensor that read oil pressure. I would think the check gauges light would come on if it drops to low pretty much like an idiot light.

I'll have some too.

Merry Christmas to all from the right side.

Mine likes to be plugged in around the 20*F mark. It will start at that temp but it is angry. I also have the grids disconnected. I usually plug it in about an hour before leaving.

I would not scrimp on that bearing due to the install part. But you never seem to know what you are getting with any of the bearings anymore. Some chinese crap is better than others. You might look up the old part number and find some new old stock of the original. Mine has over 500k on it and still seems tight.

My 02 has incandescent bulbs, at least the ones I pulled long ago. I would like to put in LED's sometime in the future.

Used it on mine too. worked well.

So you plugged the water in fuel sensor lead into the AD?

Mine will crank at 20 and even lower, but it does love the block heater. I leave mine on timer to come on about a hour before I leave for work. The truck and I love it.

Graphite. Any oil down the cable will attract dust and debris.

Around 20 here. But the Cummins gets a few days off like me. So we dont care how stinking cold it gets!!!!!

That movie pops up on tv every so often. Everybody riding around in electric cars. I especially liked the system that filled the passenger compartment with foam to encase you during a wreck. It was a pretty good movie. Nothing like Sylvester and Wesley tearing up the town.

I see afair amount of charging stations on the interstates around my neck of the woods. Mostly Tesla and mostly at Sheetz stations. I still think you have to know where they were to take a long trip for sure. What, you dont like Taco Bell???

I would be interested in the parts you used also.

Since it messes with the cruise control I would think its on the brake pedal, like in the switch. That will disable the cruise. I dont know a good way to test that though. If you remove it you have to replace it per the FSM. There is rachet or some sort mechanism in it that exktends and cannot be pushed bck. I am not totally sure of that since I have never messed with mine. I have new one at the house for when I put new bushings on the pedals. I think there is a lever on it you have to engage to prevent that then relese it after install. Been a while since I looked at it though.

It would be good just to look over your lines and fittings. They do rot with age. Just start at the vacuum pump and work your way back. Not much to it.

If you check out the down loads section I think we have a FSM for your truck available for down load.