dripley

Same here when my ecm crapped the bed. One day fine and the next pretty much undrivable. Mine surged with mind of its own. But did spit out a lot of codes, none for the ecm. Had it rebuilt and the first one set just one code p0606, ecm failure. Sent it back and worked but just ovrr year wit no cruise. It was a crappy adventure for me.

Had you ever run the reman ECM trouble free prior to the issues arising? Or the VP for that matter.

Mine was anything but easy.

How about the clock spring, or cruise swithces being different? The 99's and 02 are not identical in wiring. Just to add this the 01 and 02 auto trucks did not have the fly by wire, only the manuals did.

That kind of heat cant help. But sometimes a man gotta stop no matter what.

I think the part that makes it harder is the first time it is done. Everything is so frozen together with rust and corrosoon since the factory used no anti sieze on any thing. I have had mine apart a couple times since the first time and that has been easier because l used anti seize on everything when reassembling. Have notmtouched the ball joints since l replaced them at 250k. Figure my day is coming again with near 270k on the MOOG replacements. All is well for now though. I did use greasable ujoints on the front. Already had them. But I do have 3 sealed new old stock ones for the drive shaft. Thats the ones on mine that are still OE.

I would guess the 02 electronics are looking for some signal the the 99 cant produce since none of them were fly by wire. Plus you have manual electronics on an auto truck. Did have the 02 electronics reflashed to an auto?

Wish my ball joints were in the knuckle. It would be easier than in the yoke of the axle. Not that replacing any of them is much fun. I have a set of sealed u joints going into mine one day if the oe sealed ones ever wear out.

I have never greased mine. Lost both the OE ones within a couple dats if each other at 217k and change. Easy to remember that mileage because my ECM failed about 500 miles later. Took those out around 420k while doing a front brake job that turned into a front u joint job also. Had a pair of hubs that I bought for $150 from a old member. Completely unmaked as far as a manufacturer and he did not remeber either. Figured since I was in that far why not do the hubs.

Why not? And while working on your clucking transmission we can re wire your house. Oh and last but not least we are running a special on fire extinguishers this month.

Some frosty mornings l will run mine for 3 to 5 minutes and others not. I have often wondered how many hours of idling my truck has on it. When its my office in winter and summer it sits and idles several hours a day. Its not unusual for me to see 400 to 450 miles on a tank full of fuel during hot and cold weather.

When l was working Tennessee a couple winters back the overnight temps were near 20 regularly. Had mine plugged in on a timer for 45 minutes before l left. The block temp was around 70* in that time span. Defroster worked right away and the heater was warm within 5 miles. This with the grids disconnected. You ought to try that and see how that works. Save some wear and tear on the block heater. I do like using the block heater as compared to the grid heaters. Just my worth. Cant disagree with that. My am leave times are pretty constant. Makes it easier for the plug in method.

Welcome. I am sure you will find any thing you need here to meet your goals. Bought my 02 in the fall of 01 but mine has seen alot of road compared to yours. The folks here have helped me get this far with more to come.

Mine have beeb disconnected for the past 5 years or so. If it gets really cold I pug in on a timer set to come on 30 to 40 minutes before l leave for work. Heat comes on quick too.

And I was done with Kerry a while back. Wonder what that sheet of $9 plywood that now cost $30 will cost in a year

I bought some running boards for the wifes Equinox from RA a while back and shipping was reasonable along with the cost of the product. A couple days ago I priced some Husky liners for the same vehicle. Price was good on them so I was going to buy them thru RA. Then at check out the economy shipping on them was $165. Needless to say I had to buy them somewhere else. Not sure what was up with that. I still buy a good bit of things from them and even with shipping they are still very economical.

sum beach!!!

Thats what I am seeing with mine also. It is easy to change out. Dont know that I ever wore the bushing out. The ball joint has always gone first. I buy a good many from RA, Some have a lifetime warranty. But at the price I get them I dont worry about a warranty in the long run on run of the mill stuff. I just buty another. Some of the stuff aint worth the hassell.

I have a denso style I bought at an AZ 6 or so years that is still going strong. If I had to replace it I would probably go with the one @Dieselfuture speaks of for the Durango. It might even be a 180a, cant remeber now.

I might entertain the thought of using one but dont know anything about. I can as many good reviews on their products as I can about. A lot folks still swear by MOOG. Mine from 9 years ago are still holding up well. But 130k to 140k is the life I see out of there track bars.

Did zny of you notice the 2 piece adjustable one by profirged on RA?

I am currently on my 3rd track bar. Moog with the big ball joint on it. They are about 100 bucks to the door. I looked back a RA to see the price now and its about the same. But I did see this which I have never seen before. Cant seem to link it for some reason but it is a Proforged 10610109. It is adjustable but has the ball joint to fit the stock mount. Dont know a dang thing about them though. I noticed the other day a tad of play in mine. It has a little over 120k on it. The last one went about 140k so I will be do for a change soon. When I replaced the last one all I did was turn the steering wheel until the the hole and the stud lined up. Extra hands would have saved me several trips to line it up. I also had to recenter the wheel a little, spring sag I guess.

I figured replacing the tires would happen before they fixed the bridge.

It would not hurt to check for codes, the truck might be trying to tell you something. I have gad a high issue on mine with old injectors that new ones cured.

The tires were near replacement anyway and the DW just happened out of the blue. Always happened on the same highway and the same expansion coming off of the same bridge in Mobile Al. Figured since they were worn replacement was coming soon so I did. It did stop it but I did notice play in the track and replaced it also and have never had it return.