dripley

#1 All these are pretty good signs of ECM problems. Parts of it are failing. #2 Could be your VP is failing also. Not sure on that. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the lift pump pressure? Low fuel pressure is a VP killer. You have enough mods to need a good working system. Are your fuel filters clogged maybe? #3 Have you ever reset the APPS sensor? Anytime you disconnect the batteries the APPS sensor needs to be reset. After reconnecting the batteries you turn the switch to the on position, engine not running, and depress the throttle slowly to the floor and release slowly, then turn the key off. All without starting the engine. This allows the ECM to learn 0 to wot. It would be a good idea to put a OBDII scanner on the truck and see what it says.

The biggest problem is the quality of the employee doing the test. Some do not have clue of what they are looking at or testing. Most dont know what you are talking about on AC voltage. All they know is DC.

Hope I will have that same luck. Fired the truck off this am for 150 mile trip to work. Let run a few minutes and jumped in to leave and the CEL was on. Scanned it with the SG and 1689 pops up. Light stayed on all the way to the job. Shut the engine down and restarted a few minutes later and the CEL is off. Scanned it again and the SG says no codes. Used the key trick and there it is. Scanned it one more time and there it was so I cleared and all seems well for now. Truck ran fine all the way. Just something else to look at while home for the holidays.

My 02 is plastic also.

The roads are a lot better today too. Raleigh NC to Greensboro NC today is about a 1.5 hr drive. It was about a 3 hour drive in 70's and early 80's. The 60's maybe 4+hr drive. In the 30's when my mom was 12 or so an 8 + hr drive. Not that the tires aren't better, they are. As far as cooling the VP I would have to agree with Katoom on all of the stuff people have done. I am a believer in the plenty of a fuel method. I think @JAG1might have or had a fan on his.

pretty country out there. Hope to see it one day.

I agree, folks sure aren't bashful about it.

I have been using a heat pump for 25 years or so and it takes a little getting used since the only time it really blows in noticeable hot air is when the strip heaters come on. you need to be sure the wheel on your electric meter well lubed cause she turn some rpm. Mine came on when we first turned the heater on this season and only comes on if you turn the t'stat up a few degrees, then I get warm air from the vents. The air normally coming out of the vents is just a little warmer than the ambient air house and just holds the temp where you set. It is definitely different than wood, gas or oil heat where you feel the heat. The heat just maintains the heat comfortably. Of course i do live in a different climate than you.

If i did mine over again I would move it closer to the filter just to help keep the line more out of the way. I never broken mine working around it but it does tend to get in the way sometimes.

He would not be the first nor the last. I have seen it in other places also. I trusted what the folks here told me about it and tried it. It quieted the the VP down and my latest VP has lasted longer than the the other 2 including the oe that went at 75k. of course it ran on the stock pump and at the time I knew nothing about the importance of fuel pressure. And like @KATOOM I am a little curious if this fella has a new reason not to like it.

Just got to get your "head" wrapped around it. To the op, you have take it back off and see what's going on. Replaced mine a little over 2 years ago and getting some leakage on it. Along with all the others I have. No rust under my truck.

I am like KATOOM on that one. I am glad i dont have to have to find parts for all that. The only way to know is to pull it apart and see what you got. I am one of those 02's with the CAD. I bought it in october of 01 and guess they still had some of those still laying around.

@Hockeyfm13 I believe I derailed your thread on what you are looking for. It would appear that @Me78569 might be your man on what you are actually looking for. All I have ever had is the oe style.

I just went thru shopping for u joints for the rear drive shaft and the part look up tool showed the same joints no matter the configuration of the truck. Did not look up the front though. I did see Spicer written on the center yoke and the ujoints have SPR, I beleive, cast into them. I am thinking all Spicer on the rear.

@IBMobile Are they working on the oe wiring? A lot more wattage on those.

Good advice.

I never noticed much difference when I swapped from the oe. My oe was still good as it turned out. It was one of the things I changed when my ECM died. Just bought one last year and it was $170 or so from Timbo. Thought it was casing my surging, but alas I was wrong.

I put oe style new lenses and bulbs for $75. Now that not a fortune. I know thats not what your after but the new lenses made quite a difference.

I did not know fooler fooled the iat. thought it only did the ect. What do I know, just spit balling anyway. I dont have one of the switches myself.

Maybe the IAT sensor is calling for it after start up??

I would not disagree with that. We were on a very tight site. I had pretty firm discussion with him about leaving the truck to back up on his own for that very reason. Even the good drivers need help in tight areas. Could not believe he just looked at the truck pushing me and did nothing.

I have no idea who rebuilds them but there seems to be several that sell them but dont know what they are doing. Mine came from Cummins but who did the work, I dont know. Found this on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Cummins-2500-3500-Remanufactured-ECM-3947912-/281664808615?fits=Year%3A2002|Make%3ADodge|Model%3ARam+2500&hash=item419487e6a7:g:snQAAOSwg3FUj1wh&vxp=mtr and then on there website http://goecmdiesel.com/product19__cummins_isx_isb-ecm_isb.html. I have no experience with them. There is a member here that bought one and it did not solve his problem. He returned it. here is the thread

The pigtail was offered when I bought. Problem is I dont remember who I got it from. Ordered them together though.

The gasser tanks are probably smaller. Like 10 gallons smaller maybe. Mine is 35 gallons and short bed is a couple smaller I believe. The gassers are a little over 20.

Your problem is all fuel pick up and not the AD. Mine came with a kit to remove the in tank pump and the pickup and the return lines are all in the fuel module. I can literally drain the tank with that set up. It looks to me from your other thread that the previous owner or owners all had different ideas and just kept sticking stuff in there for fuel pick up with little thought as to how to do it right. Unfortunately you get to pick up the pieces. Most of the pickup systems I have looked at show installed near the oe fuel module. It seems to me that is where the fuel, when low, spends most of its time, hence the location.