dripley

The slave I ordered came with a bleeder screw. I did not order it that way, it just came that way. Might have been in the description but I did not see it. Just got lucky.

I had my old 5th wheel with open belly parked in Indianapolis many years ago in near 0* weather. Had lots of problems until I under pinned it. Since I was not going to be there but a month I used Tyvek. Taped it to the frame and nailed it to the frozen ground with 40 penny spikes. I also placed a ceramic heater under there and all my problems went away. The reason I brought this up is, under pinning for a long winter stay is a good thing. The tyvek worked, but foam board, plywood, hay or something more permanent like Russ mentioned is better. With the belly pan you have nothing else should be needed. Just cutting the wind off is a big improvement. One other thing I learned is thawing out "brown" icicles is no fun.

Since I removed my banks tuner I have a similar issue. The best way I can get any power is to roll into the throttle. If I hammer it over boosts and the power is weak. I have a banks waste gate actuator and it opens at near 33 or 34 pounds. If I roll into it and keep the boost down, I have better power. Since my gauges went with the Banks I am just guessing at boost pressures.

I will be looking forward to that write up. Mine is going to happen in the neat future.

As much as I hate my Banks going out because I miss the power, I wont be going back his way. They ignored my email about the problem and I guess I better buy a comp before edge gets fined again.

There is not really a good way to change the clutch fluid. I changed mine when the master cylinder went out about 3 years ago. What you are describing either the master or the slave is going. Have you ever noticed the truck trying to pull itself forward while clutch is depressed? That was the first symptom mine showed. Not going back into gear without shutting the engine down was the second. It does sound like one or the other is gone. You can buy the separate cylinders and replace them or buy an assembly already filled and ready to go. No bleeding required. Mike has a good write up on it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement I replaced mine one at a time before I knew any better. I took alot of foot pumping to bleed the master. I mean near 2 weeks. I could still drive it but had to pump the clutch a lot, but it worked. The slave I bought and replaced later came with a bleeder screw on it and I sure wish I had replaced both at once. Could have bled the whole system on the truck. Mikes way appears to work also.

That would give me heart burn also. You might could try to find one at a wrecking yard and save some cash. It would be my luck to get in the same shape as yours though.

First off welcome. I am not the injector expert, but the shims are put in to adjust the pop pressure of the individual injector. Sense not all are the same it might take more in on than the other, so I dont think what you are seeing is unusual. I sure some one else more knowledgeable will come along and explain it better than I have.

My banks tuner crapped out on me a month and with it I lost both the pyro and boost gauge since they depended on the the tuner for operation. So I would second the individual gauges. I am putting some in mine soon so that never happens again. 2 cycle here also at one ounce per gallon. Your warning light for pressure probably comes on around 5# so is not that good. You could be running at 6 and never know you had a problem.

Thats probably why I never did it. $7 a bulb is a little rich for my blood.

I have thought about doing that myself and I think the super bright site helped with picking the right size, dont remeber for sure. I pulled one of the lights from my spare speedo and the only markings on it were, Wagner and 2ND. i guess the 2ND is a size:shrug:.

When in doubt, blast.SRW here, never had to remove a dual.

11 years, 10 months, and 288k miles with a LS and no problems. Think I will knock on some of Dorkweeds wood.

I guess when I get into it I'll see if there is one there. I dont remember it being there when I replaced the VP, but we will see. If there is not one there, the dealer must not have put it back which means I have had one hanging with out it for for the past 210k miles.

two or three quarts in the last 7500 miles. Its up a some here lately. Leave my mark every where I park.

Earlier you said that in 40 vp installs you had never seen one. I guess you meant the gasket on the bracket and not the bracket itself. My first one went at 75k and it was replaced under warranty. i replace that one at 217k and dont remember a bracket. That was 3 years ago and my memory aint what it used to be. Might very well be there.

That is nice but i dont think it is in the budget for now. Trying to put some $$ back for a comp since the banks took a dump. Looks like it would solve the problem though,

Now that's comforting, Ryan. Seems I have read where a lot of folks have that problem. Anyone know of a cure? I would hate to have to do it twice. - - - Updated - - - Now that's comforting, Ryan. Seems I have read where a lot of folks have that problem. Anyone know of a cure? I would hate to have to do it twice.

I will be interested in what you see, it will be a little while before i get into mine. Is there not a gasket behind the oe lift pump bracket? That is in a perfect place to let oil leak around the block in that area. My 02 does not have the bracket on the VP that I remember. I think remember reading the later model 2nd gens did not have them.

I think they were both pretty insane. I rode a ride in Florida that simulated a dragster. I don't know the distance of travel, but I went 114 mph in 1.75 seconds. I was .

Happy days are here again!!!!!!!!!

good luck with the surgery and the other arm.

Hex, what do you do for a living? I thought it involved glazing. If so look at all of the glass. If not I will go stand in the corner with my funny hat on.

The oil could just be migrating back there from the tappet cover I guess. The wind could whip it around there. There is to much stuff in the way to tell. The oil in the back is minimal. From what i can see it has only stained the rear of the block and actually there is not enough for to run off, yet. There is a thin line of wet oil right across the rear at the cylinder head/block joint. I am going to do my tappet cover gasket and vacuum pump reseal pretty soon and and will have that side of the motor stripped pretty clean. I should be able to get a good look at it then. I guess the line being wet is what bothers me the most, it makes it look like it is leaking(more a weep than a leak) from the head. I will keep an eye on it for now until i can go in for the rest of the leak repairs. Keeping my fingers crossed it aint the head gasket.

I have some oil leaks in some usual places such as the tappet cover, vacuum pump, and maybe the front cover and /or the front main seal. The other day I noticed some oil coming around from the rear of the engine. I thought it was from the valve cover but upon further inspection it appears that it is coming from between the head and the block. I looked at it with a mirror and can see the joint between the two has a wet oily line. the oil is migrating down and onto the block. About 4 months ago I blew my radiator climbing the mountain and briefly overheated the engine(my fault), could this be a by product of the incident and I almost blew my head gasket or could there be a simpler explanation? No coolant in the oil and no oil in the coolant.