jlbayes

The biggest ones I know of are the lift pump driver failure and the wait to start not coming on.

I like to rtv the bolt heads. Fyi

My last trans builder clued me on to it. Never had considered it until he made the point. All mine from now on will get one.

The hub bore is too small on some of the later 4th gen wheels.

My dad had one in his 1st gen from a local shop. Was a towing monster but was at a much lower power level. Worked extremely well for what it was.

I have run a couple sets of wider cone injectors. Really isn't a problem in the vp world like it is with a static timed pump. I use Weston. Haley Speed is another good one.

You STOP THAT.

There is only ONE procedure for calibrating the apps. INSTALLATION The APPS is serviced (replaced) as one assembly including the lever, brackets and sensor. The APPS is calibrated to its mounting bracket. The APPS assembly is located at left-front of engine below plastic cable/lever/linkage cover (Cable/Lever/Linkage/Cover). Snap electrical connector into bottom of sensor. Position APPS assembly to engine and install 6 bolts. Tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) torque. Connect wiring harness clip (APPS Assembly) at bottom of bracket. If equipped with an automatic transmission, refer to Group 21, Transmission for transmission control cable installation procedures. Install speed control cable into mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Cables at Throttle Lever) have secured cable. Install throttle cable into mounting bracket. Be sure pinch tabs (Cables at Throttle Lever) have secured cable. Connect throttle cable at lever (snaps on). Connect speed control cable to lever by pushing cable connector rearward onto lever pin while holding lever forward. Install cable cover. Connect both negative battery cables to both batteries. ECM Calibration: Turn key to ON position. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This step must be done (one time) to ensure accelerator pedal position sensor calibration has been learned by ECM. If not done, possible DTC's may be set. Use DRB scan tool to erase any DTC's from ECM/PCM.

They are not torque to yield. They have a torque spec in ft lbs. Remove and add loctite. I'll second the ovaling. Good possibility they are.

285/70r/17 duratracs on polished 3rd gens currently. Not a fan of the tire. They are expensive and ride like poo.

That sounds like you have injector or pump issues.

Done a couple this way. Wear gloves. It gets hot lol

There isn't one on an 01.... Op, needs to check the tone wheel and cam retainer. Extremely common the last 8 or so months.

Using the rated hp to compare injectors is an extremely poor idea for performance. I would bet the nozzle differences are minimal between the two of them. Why you did not see a huge increase. 6 holes are dirtier than 7 holes of a comparable size. Tuning goes a long ways.

The aluminum pans also support the transmission case. Just something else to consider.

Was rpm related or misadjustment. It did bend one of the intakes which it proceeded to throw off out on the dunes. That was a fun ride home on 5 cylinders.

Yea that looks like an he351 flange as well.

Thank you. Everyone around here has been trying to get me to go back to them. Hard to do though when one has a hole in the sidewall. I did order a tire today so hopefully in the next week or so I can get them back on. Yes stock height but this truck sits much higher than any I've ever seen. It almost cleared the 315s with only minor rubbing when articulating.

That is pretty cool!

We still need to know drive pressure and interstage boost pressure. Manual gauge is following the map readout on the quad right? Especially with a new setup involved.

315s 285s 305s

I used to be on the kick of keeping stock pushrods. After bending 6 last year...no more. If you pay attention and look around pushrods nor valve springs are expensive.

They kind of suck due to having to remove the gear carrier.

Right and I know it flips the ground for hi/lo. Stupid trucks lol

Have an interesting issue that has become present over the last couple of weeks. So this only happens with low beam. They either will not come on or flicker once and go off. As soon as you trigger the high beam. All is fine. Just for giggles I swapped in a set of halogen bulbs, still does it. Then a set of pnp hids with a dual relay harness. Same deal. I am thinking a power feed issue with either the head lamp switch orrrr multifunction switch. My moneys on the multifunction switch.