trreed

I did acknowledge that CO does not have the sustained cold, but cold is cold. It's not like -13 in CO is warmer than -13 in Montana. So my experience without a fuel heater is still accurate. There was a week here where the high was 11*, or just above gel point. Never had an issue.

One more question about your pump @Timburrr. How does it regulate pressure? You may need an external regulator if it doesn't have one.

Nicely said @dripley and @Dieselfuture! To @Timburrr, if you’re running a pump advertised at 150 gph, the holes drilled in the basket are adviseable. @dripley circumvented that by taking the red flapper out to allow more fuel in, but if you drill three 1/2” holes spaced at 1/3rd intervals around the basket, you should be ok. I’ve never heard of the lift pump you’re going with before, but it’s very odd that it does not have a return from the pump that acts as the pressure regulator. The size of the stock return lines and the amount of fuel that will be returned by this pump is a concern in my mind. It may be a benefit to you to jump up to a 3/8” return line to keep everything happy.

Good to know Nick. I’ve been wondering about that.

Nick I remember a time when the Quad would display 3.32* when the truck was off, and any throttle input brought the commanded timing to 8*. Now, the timing shows 3.32* regardless of throttle input while the truck is off. So the switch to 8* would mean the ECM was in control of cranking timing. Not sure why it stopped commanding 8* these days though.

The bulk diesel tank I have on the farm is mild steel. So you'll be ok. Drilling the holes in the side of the basket is so the lift pump will not suck the basket dry due to the higher flow rate. However, the rule of Too Much applies here. 3 is the recommended number, any more and you may risk the fuel running back out of the basket like you mentioned.

I haven't had a fuel heater for a couple of years now. While CO doesn't have the sustained cold temps, it does get cold. Last winter it hit -13*, I forgot my antigel, and had no gelling issues (meanwhile I have a Duramax friend who gels every time it gets remotely cold). This winter so far, weeks of single digit temps, and still no gelling. Now I'm running a mechanical pump, remote filters, and still no heater. While it is untested yet, I'm not worried in the slightest about gelling.

Stock is 7. 12 valves have 5 hole injectors.

7.

Has to do with the higher cetane values of winterized fuel. Higher cetane numbers increases the fuel's ability to self-ignite, so for Mike's truck that seems to like slightly lower timing than mine, he reduces the timing to bring the combustion event back to his truck's liking. If that makes any sense lol.

Pretty sure they were the cheapies. Fit was great though, but I cannot speak for the service life of them. Looks like there is a warranty on them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Turbine-Wheel-Shaft-3519336-H1C-WH1C-HX35-HX35W-Ind-70-00mm-Exd-60-00mm/252257907455?hash=item3abbbe32ff:g:occAAOSwVupTmJAT&vxp=mtr

GYTurbo is definitely Chinese parts, but I have used their turbine and compressor wheels in a rebuild before and as far as i know, that turbo is out there in Iowa somewhere still in a compound setup. What I did, though it costs a little more, is buy this kit: https://www.dieselautopower.com/holset-genuine-hx35-rebuild-kit-3575169 Because it's genuine Holset. Then I had to get the compressor wheel and turbine from GYTurbo. But. That route costs about $160. Reason I did that is I had a stubborn comp wheel that took out the threads on the shaft as it came off in pieces, and I had already bought the rebuild kit.

Couldn't tell you. Bought it almost two years ago now.

Yes.

A lot of us have done this steering conversion. Yes you have to trim the tie rod stud to fit 16"s

Patriot Blue here... Or The Darker Blue, as I call it.

It's not a necessary thing to do, unless you want to check it for your own peace of mind. Plus, you'd have to take off all rocker assemblies to check all bolts, versus just the injector hold-downs for the injector change.

I have the quadzilla. The tuning capabilities are fantastic, and I love it. But at the end of the day it's still a VP truck. I haven't done all of my research into how to properly tune a ppump, but I've seen a p24 valve truck capable of 800+hp run on 5 cylinders for hours. So ppumps can be drivable with the proper timing and AFC tuning. Just gott put in the time to learn it

You will lose electronic control with a ppump. Completely different animal tuning wise. That being said, 750 on a VP is a stretch. Usually a gigantic set of compounds is used with varying results.

@jlbayes can tell you the most about high hp VP trucks. He did 654 on a SO VP with some generic sized compounds and injectors. Great that the block is warrantied to that level. It is above what most fuel-only VP trucks can dream of. But what is your power goal? If you want to stay around 650, then VP will allow you to use the quadzilla V2 tuning. If you want more, you're looking at a ppump swap.

A SO vp will make 650-700hp max and be more reliable than any of the hotrod pumps. That being said, your mod list will make for a good sized power number. Did you have a specific goal in mind?

The HIDs burn very hot (200*C iirc) and they will clear a 2.5" circle of ice off the lens. But that's the only place that's melted. Looks goofy

I once went through two complete bundles of stud grade 2x6's to find 20 good ones for damn fence boards. It's junk.

Yes but I despise menards. It's the worst garbage.

Food for thought. This is what LEDs in stock housings look like to other drivers. He was a 1/4 mile back and I still wanted to throttle him. I'm a strong advocate for a HID projector retrofit. It's much cleaner light. (Unfortunately I just switched phones and don't have a HID comparison)