pepsi71ocean

arneson surface drives. high rpm low pitch propellers. takes me back to when i was younger doing all of the reading up on the history of boat racing, back when they used the Merlin's and Allison engines out of aircraft instead of those big block v-8's they use now. of course they also use turbine engines now but its nice to see that the smaller boats are still running piston engines. Of course growing up on the water it was always fun going to AC and eating at the the deck and walking e and f docks and looking at the speed boats and knowing what their top speed could be by looking at their out drives.

my vote goes to pacbrake, and as for a brake controller nothing beats a spring on the tv cable, and the gear selector.For years i used the O/D off button to take the truck out of OD to use the engine to brake, then downshifted to "2". my built auto however pulls hard even without the exhaust brake on it.I should add a billet flexplate and input should be added if you plan to use it to brake.

This is a first in this thread.I run interstate deep cycle marine batteries. The truck went through 3 sets over the life of the truck. The OEM ones lasted the longest, until i dropped a wrench across the battery one day and shorted the whole fricken truck.the battery i dropped the wrench on had a dead cell after that, sure it would hld a charge for a few days but squashed.Then the next set (the first set of Interstate Batteries lasted about 2 years until the moron mechanical shop that was dealing with my transmission did something, i still don't know to this day why they died. Anyways after that i had to buy another set of batteries that to this day still work like a charm. If i decide to cycle the grids or not doesn't matter this thing spins and goes even at 7F out. but then again 1000cca times two batteries will do that out.

i had the same problem after i pulled my door panels off, i took superglue and glued them back together, and then lined them up to see how the fit, then rotated it 90 degree and then filed the area down so it would slide in and then rotated it back 90 degrees so that cable was resting in the position it liked.thus far it still works, but well see, if i have to pop those door pannels off again i hope that it will still work if not i know the part number now.

i would venture to say something isn't right. parasitic loss for me was very little over the 6 month span my truck was ooc.i have two deep cycle marine batteries i think 1000cca, in my truck and my truck sat for the better part of 6 months over the summer until i got my new trans back in i think November? anyways my batteries were still reading 12.3v after all of that sitting, and i didn't use a charger.unless your trucks usage is that infrequent then id consider looking at something else.

my truck has all metal fittings.but if you want go to a line shop and get them to make you some hydraolic line that is rated to 300F, and have them put ends onto it i have heard that works.

hey we just got internet and power back. i have photos but im tired as crap another long night by my self since everyone called out again. then im off for two days of most likely sleep.

i ran around today and took some pictures after we did all of our moving around.Unlike Irene, Sandy is coming in to make landfall on a double whammy of a high tide, and a Full moon. I am comparing this however to more of a Ash Wednesday storm, (a.k.a the flood of 1962). Where similar both hurricanes didn't have high winds, but had nothing but a wall of wind, enough wind to keep the water from receding, especially since the march storm was 5 cycles of high tides, where as here the tide dropped a meer 1-2 feet today, unlike the normal tide drop.Two hours past low and the local Marina (where one of our boats are stored) is about 1.5 feet above water as week speak. I expect most of my town to be at sea level by tomorrow night. Were lucky where i live, we live on a 14 foot tall hill, that goes around my house and to my neighbors to the left. Well our house is 14 feet above sea level, so we should be fine minus the basement. For some odd reason unknown to god the road is actually cut through my street where our house is, which makes for a huge dip in the road, and if it rains heavy enough it always fills up.in preparations for the flood we have picked up additional fuel, another 30 gallons of gas, along with my blue dodge (another 17 or so) with 47 gallons of gas should last us a while.we also grabbed our pond water pump out, and jerry rigged a hose to it as an additional sump pump if needed. And Firewood, because if the power goes out we most likely will be burning firewood for heat.I'll be uploading pictures soon of my adventures today.

At one time i used to hotshot boats and campers. it was good money, but the key is to go undetected.unless you want to be like the show shipping wars!

this state couldn't bail its self out even if it was in a wet paper bag....

in other news, a few of the democrats in trenton are trying to pass a bill that would allow the state to tax dead people, supposedly it will generate 660 million in revenue.

you guys are missing the point.this is jersey, we have the most asinine laws and ideas.come on, the legislature last month put in a bill requiring dogs to wear seat belts and harness when inside the car...like Christie said this crap makes us the laughing stock of the nation.what else is asinine here....oh, hollow point rounds are illegal to posses outside of your house.bb guns are illegal, yet air soft guns are not considered firearms. However they put in a bill to make bb guns legal to own without a FPID, and airsoft guns (because they are "substantially identical" will need one.Yet bb guns are dangerous, airsoft is not.don't get me started, this is why crap like this we laugh at here in the state.

if i could find a 2000-02 dodge ram with the newer front axles i could go forwards and try and figure it out.but im not sure if the gas trucks used the same set up as our diesels do (in reguards to 4wd)

can you post some pictures to show us exactly where its leaking. i have an idea, but im not sure.

this has been a most interesting read.

i will break the mold here. i ahve loved in new Jersey all my life, and grew up on the water. and i ahve never run 4 stroke outboards until a few years ago on our old Sea Hunt, it had a pair of yamaha 225's, that the boat was good no doubt, but the 4 strokes were maintenance hogs, rather wise i have a few 30 year old 2 cycle outboards that will run without issue. pull the cord and go.If you go with an older boat with a 2 cycle outboard, that is of the OMC/ Evenrude design, forget about the VRO pump on top, and mix your oil in with the fuel, the VRo pumps on most 2 cycle engines were known to go bad and cause the top cylinder to melt. However our latest boat, which i drive the heck out of is a 24 foot sea hunt with a (i think a 175) (not sure boat is at the marina, it will be pulled soon thought. and its the newer 2 stroke motor that is emissions compliant. and that thing is a blast to drive.The big thing that many people don't get is that a 2 stroke engine has gobbles of torque and on demand power, unlike the bulky 4 stroke outboards. especially the newer computer controlled 2 cycle engines, they are a blast to play with.Although, the biggest thing i say to watch out for and no one has yet mentioned is to check for compression. unlike gas cars most boats are under power and over run. Most of the V-8's you will find in an inboard or I/O configuration will be under displacement and the owners will run them hard.Our neighbors went through 3 sets of power plants for their 42 footer in under 5 years, all because he had to run those poor engines around at 5,000 rpms everywhere, and well a compression test will help tell it.other things to look at are transmission fluid in the transmission, most guys don't change it either, just like lower units on I/O's or outboards.....We just sold a 40 foot sea ray that had 927 hours on one motor and 440 on the other, the P/O blew up the one motor and the other one is a cranky _____ but at almost 1000 hours its understandable. but some 15w-40 motor oil and a new oil pump and she runs fine when warm.I still believe in the 2 stroke outboard, but depending on the model size, Crusader is like the main power plant you will find on an inboard, but i believe they also recently went to computerized injection. Oh how i miss the old days, i had a 28 checkmate that my dad and i used to play around with, and we stuck a leaf blower onto the motor it was a king cobra drive, and it was a big block 454 as well, with a larger then needed carb on it. shame we blew up the outdrive, OMC made good stuff, shame that the FICHT project buried them. But i blame the EPA for that.

Insane answers in blue, behind enemy lines in NJ

anything is better then a rusty frame:thumbup2: And what the problem is that when snow plowing your transmission usually never makes it out of 1st gear, and your TC is never locked, so you will notice your temps will easily rise, and the hotter you get the quicker your fluid will break down. i would advise a shift kit, and a cooler. the 3500 models only came with an extra cooler in the trans system, otherwise it was just the one cooler unless you got the tow package.(i believe). If not, then i would atleast attach a fan over the front of the trans cooler on front of the trans cooler, because with that plow on front your air flow will be reduced.

my advice is if you use your truck to plow, take the whole underside and clean it remove as much rust as you can get, and then por-15 (or chassie saver) the whole thing then add a few coats of paint over that, paint the underside and then wash it frequently in the winter. this should prevent the rust.then you need to save up for front end components, just replace them with better stuf as they wear out.get a good transmisison cooler and make sure your 4x4 works.

its already there... i took that article and expanded it in the articles section

dam, i have had some heavy loads on my 99 and nothing like that, but being that these trucks are about 14 years old now this can happen, as the frame and all the metals weaken with age.

you can also use a spring on your tv cable, or adjust the TV cable out a bit.although the biggest thing is like what DTT used a voltage regulator, which fools the pcm into thinking that it is stock voltage. thus stock line pressure, even though its bumped up.

that is why i can't figure this out, but i spke to dtt and trans is on its way back. this time around i plan to swap the trans in before i send them my TC (they want me to exchange it out for a higher stall one), mean while. can i ask what your truck idles at rpm wise? is it the 850 that Cummins states, or is it the 750 that shows up on the tach. AND, i plan on replacing the sensors if this guy at this thread shows improvement with his wavering tach. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-performance-parts-discussion/531919-why-does-do-start-up-idle.html

if you want a good idea for a kill switch i can PM you with a design i am using, but without a trans its a theory right now. although mike is almost 100% certain it will work as intended.

I spoke to DTT today and several things came out and nothing new was learned.However they want to raise my trucks TC stall from 500 rpm lower to 200 lower. I also had a discussion with some guys over on cf about the effects of cam and crank sensors on engine stalling, and the weird bouncy tach signal. Which leads me to believe its possible that old sensors are causing the engine to not read everything correctly.Several people have came forward with example of how replacing their sensors actually fixed issues with the tach bouncing up and down rapidly, which i assumed was because of the TC springs bouncing back and forth.So DTT said that the trans was fine, but was missing some parts, which once again leads me back to square one.the goal now is once i get the trans back ill install it with the 500 rpm lower stall and take her for a spin to see where i am, and if the stalling issues persist.