IBMobile

I have a brand-new Timbo's APP under the backseat just in case it's needed.

I used a piece of 4" triple wall solid drainpipe, about 6" long, that I cut from a pipe I found lying in my yard.

Check for battery voltage from the driver's side battery to the intake air heater relays. If no voltage, check fusible link between the battery and Intake air heater relay. If voltage, turn ignition key to the on position and with "wait to start" light illuminated, test for voltage at grid heaters. If voltage, check air grid heater grounds at air intake manifold. If good grounds then replace air heater grids. If no voltage at air intake grid heaters remove either the 16-gauge yellow/black or orange/black trigger wire from one of the air heater relays and install voltmeter between the that wire and ground. Turn ignition key to the on position and with "wait to start" light illuminated, test for voltage. Test the other air heater relay the same way. If no voltage, then test for voltage at pins number 29 and 47 at the ECM. If no voltage, then the ECM is bad and need to be repaired. If there is battery voltage, then place an ohm meter between the black/tan wires at the air heater relays and ground. If reading is greater than 0-5 ohms check open circuit or bad grounding. If reading is 0-5 ohms air heater relay ground is good and air heater relay needs to be replaced

Don't forget to install the fuse between the alternator and PCM in the blue wire to protect the PCM from damage. This is the article to read and use to help with the installation. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/alternator-and-pcm-protection-r617/

Vehicle Nickname: Cerberus Date Added To The Garage: 2023-02-25 Garage Link: Cerberus

@Threadzy when was your last test? "Beginning July 19, 2021, vehicles identified with illegally modified software will fail Smog Check." During the Cailfornia smog test the OBD2 is connected to an "interrogating computer" which looks for modified programing in the vehicle's ECM/PCM. If your last test was after this date, then the Quad is truly hidden.

YES along with my bhaf and the EDGE Easy. I leave the RV245 injectors in.

The leaks are only get worse over time so yes, fix them when the vp44 is off.

I've seen that happen on a fuel pump. Customer replaced his fuel pump and couldn't get it started because he wired it backwards; reversed the two wires and it ran like a champ.

No need to remove the OEM elbow. The controller works fine with just a new hose connecting it to the elbow. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Manual-Controller-Install-Repair/dp/B0B5PYG6H3

Boost controller opened showing spring with a check ball, unseen. behind it. Controller mounted on alternator bracket for easy access to change boost setting. It's adjusted for 30psi max boost pressure with an HX35 turbo.

Esey, keep the key in your pocket.

My wife would have to pry the key out of my cold dead fingers or have a good divorce lawyer 2018 was the last time she drove it from Winnemucca to Fallon rest area at the junction of I-80 and rout 95 in Nevada; a total of 104 miles.

That could become dangerous.

@Brandon CooperWelcome to the site where you will find a lot of members willing to help you. WE do encourage members to do "get to gather's" in their area of the country. The Grand Poobah

My Launch 123 will not read theses transmissions either but my Snap-On Ethos+ will read all kinds of data about the transmission.

My wife found one at the hairdresser's...she keeps trowing mony down it. I don't have the heart to tell her it hasn't helped.

Part number 05205254 o-ring https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/4371508/05205254.html

Track hoe with a shear.

No, I've never seen that, but this is what worked for me. The relay should have the switched 12 volts going to terminal 86 and terminal 85 is the relay ground. Relay terminal 30 would be connected to the orange/black wire at PCM B11 and terminal 87 going to ground with a ½ watt 33 ohm resistor inline. The "grounding relay" on the right side of the diagram below is how it should look using your rocker switch where the toggle/foot switch is shown.

I have a 12 qt waste oil drain container that I use just for transmission work for situations where the oil is new, but the pan has to come off.

I'm getting the hang of it now, I think.

You would think it would, but I haven't delt with how a Quadzilla is installed and what other sensors are tapped into to make it work. The 5-volt reference from terminal #11 is also used by the oil pressure sensor and the grounding terminal #11 at the ECM is also used for the oil pressure sensor, air intake temp sensor, engine coolant temp sensor, and the water in fuel sensor.

Test MAP sensor Remove MAP sensor. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test orange wire at pin A of MAP sensor for 5 volts. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test black with light blue tracer wire at pin B of MAP sensor for ground. Reading should be 0.0-0.10 volts. With a multimeter set for 20 volts DC and ignition key on test gray with red tracer wire at pin C of MAP sensor. Take voltage reading with no air pressure applied to end of MAP and record reading. Next apply air pressure to end of MAP sensor and record reading; there should be a change in voltage. Grounding of the MAP sensor is provided at terminal #11 at the ECM. 5-volt reference comes from terminal #10 at the ECM. The sensor signal voltage is sent to terminal 8 at the ECM.

Yes Yes The splice is at the fire wall but terminates at the battery. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/pcm-ground-splice-repair-r675/?tab=comments#comment-115