IBMobile

i have the Lund on my truck. The right one cracked a while back, can't remember why, put some glue on it and its been fine. With the wipers on and the window open an inch or two, water will come into the cab around the deflector.

If a person doesn't have a leak detector, A/C gauges, vacuum pump, hand tools, and most important THE KNOW HOW then dumping in 3 can a year might be cheaper than taking it to a repair shop and paying over $250. ALLDATA time guide 1.4 HR evacuate & recharge, .6 HR replace all O- rings plus the cost of parts and 134A, and I charge $100 / HR and mark my parts up.

If you add one can (12 oz / .75 lb) of 134A @ $8-$12 and it lasts a year don't do any thing else. If it lasts less than 4 mo. then do like Mike did. It's more of a major leak and needs repairing.

That's a fine looking human you got there.

Put trans temp sender here. 1. install sender unit into T fitting. 2. cut pipe. I used a small tube cutter. 3. take the pipe off the heat exchanger and cut off about 3/8" from it. use a hack saw for that. 4. slide compression fittings on both pipes. 5. install T fitting with sender unit on to the pipes and hand tighten the fittings. 6. reinstall pipe on to heat exchanger. 7. orientate the sender unit. 8. be sure the pipes are pushed in to the T fitting, then tighten the compression fittings.

I have the box made and put up. I'm letting my son handle it right now because I'm driving to Yellowstone on the 6th and won't be back till around the 20th. I Have pics and will post later.

Back up---Back up---- then back up again or check twice - delete once .

Ya, I got stung. My son down loaded plans for a small box and he is going to try the trap out. He looked up there at night and could see the bees right at the edge. He thinks the space my be full already.

I found the problem, owner/installer dumb a$$ mistake . Working it backwards I grounded the yellow wire from the PCM/solenoid, then locked out the O/D. The CEL came on. Check where I spliced in and saw that I spliced into an orange/black wire at C3 and not the orange/black at C2 for the PCM.Thank you for trying to help the hapless . It works great now . locks up for 3ed and 4th, has 3-4 up shifts, light is on when system is engaged, and the system turns off when either the brake peddle or momentary switch is pressed. This set up cost less than 20$ with used relays and wire from a junkyard, bought the led light at Fry's and the switch on E-Bay.

yes, this is what's happening with no direct correlation between the APPs code and O/D lock out.

I would have been flaming PO'd. Your labor is time that you'll never get back. How many hours of your life was wasted on that problem ?

I can set the code with the key on engine not running. I'm going to work this problem backwards by just grounding the lockup solenoid first. If no problem then adding the 'grounding' relay and powering up the green wire. If no problem then add the 'switching' relay but remove the red/yellow wire from the pink wire at the brake switch and run it straight to ground.

I put a mystery switch in the shifter, thank you me78569. The momentary switch is used to trip a 'switching' relay that turns on a light at the A-post next to the trans temp gauge and all so closes a 'grounding' relay that grounds the torque converter lockup solenoid. Terminal 85 of the switching relay is grounded through terminal 1 of the brake light switch which is also a ground for the ABS controller. When I engage the lock up everything is ok , then manually lock out over drive to down shift to 3ed. The check engine light comes on. There is no up shift to over drive until the lockup solenoid is ungrounded. The code that is set is p0122 throttle position sensor/switch A circuit low input, the APPS. Does anyone see what would cause this condition or am I bound to use a single switch to ground for lock up.

I get called into the Volvo dealer to do diagnostic on old cars from time to time. The techs don't have a clue of what's going on. If they can't plug it in and get a read out then forget about it, it will be a wag.

Just changed the oil on the Driveway Queen, went 7436mi in 23mo. I don't bother testing because : 1- I drive it so little 2- It is used mostly for towing 8-10,000 lb on highways. 3- Chevron 15w-40 because I bought 5- 6 gallon cases of it years ago. 4- I'll be dead be for it reaches 150,000mi so I don't care.

Thank you all for the info. When researching this problem I came upon the trapout method. Although it takes the longest amount of time it looks like the best way to ensure the colony survives. I'll make a box for them to hopefully move in to and a progress report as things develop.

I found that a bee colony has been established under my roof/behind the fascia board. It may have been started about 2-4 week ago. I don't want to kill the colony but the bee relocation people want $200 and up to do it. I know that hexOrz and LiveOak are bee keepers. So does any one have away to move them out with out killing them.

This is the way it should be and drink coffee when you want to. Now you just have to rip out the ceiling and put a lift in.

There was a short report about this on the morning news. The report was car manufacturers don't want others working on the electrical systems and 12 auto manufacturers are lobbying Congress about it.

It won't be for"public safety", driving will be limited to a few for Carbon Reduction and Sustainability.

Most people out there can't work on their own truck/car because of a multitude of reasons, this leaves the dealer or independent repair shop.Customer retention for the dealer has always been a problem. There's an 80% chance that in 3 years the vehicle that the dealer sells today will be serviced at an independent shop and in 5 years its close to 100%. The dealer/manufacture now think they have a way to corner the after sales diagnostic and repair market by saying these proposed regulations and laws are for public safety and liability concerns. Most of the state and federal legislators are trial lawyers and the Trial Lawyers' Association wont' let some law get passed that might infringe on a good class action suite. The manufactures' lobby will throw a bunch of money at it and maybe a back door deal will be made. The consumer will pay more in the end. We always do.

Legislation does not have to be passed to outlaw something.The EPA makes laws an regulations all the time. They along with all the other government agencies were given that power by the Congress. The California Air Resource Board (CARB) make the laws and regulations for the States air emissions. The people that over see this agency are appointed by the Governor. I've installed an Edge EZ on my truck. The EZ is a CARB unapproved device and therefor and outlawed modification to my truck. Luck for me that where I smog my truck they turn a blind eye to it or it would be an automatic failure. In this State I can not buy and install a home furnace or A/C system, only a license contractor can. In this State I can not purchase a gun magazine over 10 rounds. In this State there are a lot of thing I can not modify or purchase that if I did would be an infraction, misdemeanor, or felony. These laws and regulations were passed by legislation or an agency. So with the right mind set in government any thing is possible. The box has already been open!

Looks like we're all going to be felons. This looks like another power play by the vehicle manufacturers. They want to increase market share of the auto dealers' repair business by keeping the software proprietary. I run in to this when I'm working on Volvos. My every day scan tools will not always interface with the car's systems like the SRS (air bags) or transmission. If i want to access all of the systems and sub-systems I need to use Volvo's VIDA hardware and download their software all at a hefty price,this is similar to Chrysler's wiTECH. A few years ago you couldn't get service up dates or repair bulletins from the manufacturer. Some body sued and won the right for the public to get them but at a price. I'm sure glad I'm retiring soon.

Windows, up-down, key position #2 only. STANDARD PROCEDURE - RKE TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING To program the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter access codes into the RKE receiver in the high-line or premium Central Timer Module (CTM) requires the use of a DRBIIIt scan tool. Refer to the appropriate diagnostic information. Some up scale key and lock shops might be able to do it. Fill out your signature line so we know the year of and equipment the truck has.

If auxiliary you mean key position #1 then no they will not work. The window motors are only powered up in key position #2, the run position. You can buy a new transmitter for the locks and code it to the truck. . (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/POWER LOCKS/REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY TRANSMITTER - STANDARD PROCEDURE - RKE TRANSMITTER PROGRAMMING).