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Put temp sender here 1. install sender unit into T fitting. 2. cut pipe. I used a small tube cutter. 3. take the pipe off the heat exchanger and cut off about 3/8" from it. use a hack saw for that. 4. slide compression fittings on both pipes. 5. install T fitting with sender unit on to the pipes and hand tighten the fittings. 6. reinstall pipe on to heat exchanger. 7. orientate the sender unit. 8. be sure the pipes are pushed in to the T fitting, then tighten the compression fittings.

When in 2017, spring summer fall?

Yellowstone in all its glory shows nature at its best. With so many places to go with things to see and do pre-trip planing is a must. Here are a few link to help you plan. http://www.nps.gov/yell/index.htm http://www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com/ http://www.sunset.com/travel/rockies/yellowstone-national-park-guide http://www.yellowstonepark.com/2014/04/perfect-day/

I made a small box to go over the opening the bees are using to go in and out of. I made a box for the bees to move into and attached a hose between them. The bees wouldn't go down the hose so I took it down told my son to think of something else and went to Yellowstone. Got back and the bees still here. Son told me he was to busy with work and women to think of something. I've drilled a hole in the top of the small box and attached a cone, made of window screening, to it. I'm going to put that on the roof with the big box above it, that will be done in the next day or two. I called a friend of mine who live where the Avocado groves are and asked if he knew any bee keeper up there. He said that the keepers won't take a colony because the bees are not tame. He had to kill a colony that got in to his decking.

I checked with the wholesaler this morning. He had a "Pacific Best" or a "Cryomax", ether one for $197. I've used the Cryomax and have had good luck. The wholesaler told me they have a life time warranty with only a 1% return rate. There are a few other brands that have a radiator for the 04 L5.9: Spectra Premium, Valeo, and Vista Pro to name a few. What ever you get flush the system and replace your coolant with fresh anti-freeze and distilled water. You normally get what you pay for, if its to good to be true its not, learn from other people's experience.

I've replaced a lot of radiators over the years in my repair business and found that the OME last the longest. Most of the after market radiators are made in Taiwan, Red China, or Indonesia. Some are better than others but last any where from 2-6 years. Remember the cheap ones are what a used car dealer would use to keep the cost down and get the car off the lot. I've found that even the better ones can be a crap shoot and only last a few years. I can call my wholesaler tomorrow and see what he says with the prices. I need to know what your driving.

You can have mine.

Alumaseal has worked for me but you can all so use a box of course ground black pepper in a pinch.

This article was posted in an auto repair trade magazine. https://www.yahoo.com/tech/general-motors-dont-touch-your-cars-software-119885316934.html

Went on a road trip to Yellowstone this month. It took me 2½ days to drive from SoCal to the Fishing Bridge campground, about 1,100 mi. Stayed 5 days taking in the sights and probably could have stayed another 5 if I had the time. There is so much to see and the people working the visitor centers, stores, and campground were as nice as could be. I think that was because we got there the 8th of May which was the first day the park was open for the summer season. There were no crowds and the help wasn't burned out. We went out the south entrance and right into the Grand Teton National Park. Another gem in our National Park catalog. The valley is flat and wide and offers great hiking and bike trails. The view of the Teton range jutting up out of the valley with the lakes in front no picture can do it justice. After a few days of that it was on the road again. I wanted to take the back roads down to Zion UT but my wife said she had enough of sitting in that truck and wanted to get home. We route 89ed it out of Jackson WY to Interstate 15s driving through Salt Lake City at rush hour and stopped at a campground in Provo UT. This is were I noticed all most every truck towing something was a Dodge. Thinking back on it even in Yellowstone the majority of tow vehicles were Dodge. Any way, next day drove by the exit for Zion National Park, my wife wanted no part of it this trip and said "we'll see it next time we go to Vegas". I manged to get into Las Vegas for the evening rush hour, I just could not win. We spent the night in the parking lot of the Gold Strike Casino (don't go there) in Jean, NV then home the next day. The total miles drove 2,992.6, total pictures taken 3,370. Now that my wife is rested she's talking about planing a trip to Rhode Island. I did that trip 20 years ago, I don't know about now.

Have had my share of the varmints. This is two different years in the Sierra Nevada, Jag1 has been here.

You can try this set up that I put into my 2000 w/ 47re. You have a light that is on when the system is powered up and the system turns off when the brake peddle is depressed unless you use the toggle switch to force a lockup when braking. The 48re wire is on the left side of the trans and is a yellow w/blue tracer wire, pin #7. Since I haven't modified my valve body this only works in 4th&3ed. I found that it really helps in keeping the speed in check on those long down grades and 3ed gear lock-up going up hills keeps the trans temp down and better pulling power.

i have the Lund on my truck. The right one cracked a while back, can't remember why, put some glue on it and its been fine. With the wipers on and the window open an inch or two, water will come into the cab around the deflector.

If a person doesn't have a leak detector, A/C gauges, vacuum pump, hand tools, and most important THE KNOW HOW then dumping in 3 can a year might be cheaper than taking it to a repair shop and paying over $250. ALLDATA time guide 1.4 HR evacuate & recharge, .6 HR replace all O- rings plus the cost of parts and 134A, and I charge $100 / HR and mark my parts up.

If you add one can (12 oz / .75 lb) of 134A @ $8-$12 and it lasts a year don't do any thing else. If it lasts less than 4 mo. then do like Mike did. It's more of a major leak and needs repairing.

That's a fine looking human you got there.

Put trans temp sender here. 1. install sender unit into T fitting. 2. cut pipe. I used a small tube cutter. 3. take the pipe off the heat exchanger and cut off about 3/8" from it. use a hack saw for that. 4. slide compression fittings on both pipes. 5. install T fitting with sender unit on to the pipes and hand tighten the fittings. 6. reinstall pipe on to heat exchanger. 7. orientate the sender unit. 8. be sure the pipes are pushed in to the T fitting, then tighten the compression fittings.

I have the box made and put up. I'm letting my son handle it right now because I'm driving to Yellowstone on the 6th and won't be back till around the 20th. I Have pics and will post later.

Back up---Back up---- then back up again or check twice - delete once .

Ya, I got stung. My son down loaded plans for a small box and he is going to try the trap out. He looked up there at night and could see the bees right at the edge. He thinks the space my be full already.

I found the problem, owner/installer dumb a$$ mistake . Working it backwards I grounded the yellow wire from the PCM/solenoid, then locked out the O/D. The CEL came on. Check where I spliced in and saw that I spliced into an orange/black wire at C3 and not the orange/black at C2 for the PCM.Thank you for trying to help the hapless . It works great now . locks up for 3ed and 4th, has 3-4 up shifts, light is on when system is engaged, and the system turns off when either the brake peddle or momentary switch is pressed. This set up cost less than 20$ with used relays and wire from a junkyard, bought the led light at Fry's and the switch on E-Bay.

yes, this is what's happening with no direct correlation between the APPs code and O/D lock out.

I would have been flaming PO'd. Your labor is time that you'll never get back. How many hours of your life was wasted on that problem ?

I can set the code with the key on engine not running. I'm going to work this problem backwards by just grounding the lockup solenoid first. If no problem then adding the 'grounding' relay and powering up the green wire. If no problem then add the 'switching' relay but remove the red/yellow wire from the pink wire at the brake switch and run it straight to ground.

I put a mystery switch in the shifter, thank you me78569. The momentary switch is used to trip a 'switching' relay that turns on a light at the A-post next to the trans temp gauge and all so closes a 'grounding' relay that grounds the torque converter lockup solenoid. Terminal 85 of the switching relay is grounded through terminal 1 of the brake light switch which is also a ground for the ABS controller. When I engage the lock up everything is ok , then manually lock out over drive to down shift to 3ed. The check engine light comes on. There is no up shift to over drive until the lockup solenoid is ungrounded. The code that is set is p0122 throttle position sensor/switch A circuit low input, the APPS. Does anyone see what would cause this condition or am I bound to use a single switch to ground for lock up.