IBMobile

If the OEM bearing lasted 240k miles and the aftermarket lasted 70k miles I think I'd put the OEM back in.

Factory pumps are junk! I had 2 fail in less than 20k miles. I put a Fuel Boss mechanical pump on. I now have 19-20psi at full throttle.

My friend didn't say any thing about my bhaf or the home made cold air box but did do a snap test and said he did see a little smoke but hay what are friends for.

Your Smarty may not be legal in CA. I brought my truck in for smog test in December of 2011 and every thing was good. Last December I was told that my EDGE E-Z was not legal and I'd fail the test. Lucky for me I've known the owner for 20 years and I send him a lot of business.He passed me anyway. I went to the CA. ARB web sight and the EDGE E-Z was only certified for 1998-1999. I could not find the Smarty listed there so it may not be certified either. here is the web address. http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/aftermktdevice.php I see that the Smarty leaves no "foot print" so you may not have to worry about it but be sure no smoke comes out of the tail pipe. The test includes revving up the engine and watching the tail pipe for smoke, any smoke at any RPM is a failure.

My 5er came with maxxis tires and they last 9 years with no problems till dry rot did them in. Went down to the tire shop and put another set on.

My trans lasted 63k miles before the front ban wore out due to a lot of backing up. I didn't have a temp gauge for the trans yet so I think it overheated a few times trashed the fluid and caused the failure.

When I had to replace some of the wood in my rig I treated it with a water proofing sealant be for installing it.

That's how I renewed mine this year. Went on line, paid the fee with the M/C card, and four weeks later had a new license with the old picture. Still had to go see the Doc for the CDL check up. My wife, "the Speed Queen", had to go in to the DMV this year to get her's. I gess if you have points on your record they want to see you.

That's how I renewed mine this year. Went on line, paid the fee with the M/C card, and four weeks later had a new license with the old picture. Still had to go see the Doc for the CDL check up. My wife, "the Speed Queen", had to go in to the DMV this year to get her's. I gess if you have points on your record they want to see you.

When I changed my rotors out I drilled and tapped my hubs for grease fittings. I pumped about 20 to 25 shots of grease into each hub while spinning them, and it actually quieted them up drastically. Did you take pics of them and what type of grease did you use?

I would use rubber brake lines and save the money. DOT 4 brake fluid with a boil point of 500 or better.

U soo funny

I stay away from the pumping the break method. I've seen several brake master cylenders go bad. If you are doing a vehicle that hasn't had a brake fluid flush in a long time the brake master cylender bore can have rust and pitting in the area where the seals on the rod never go in normale braking. When you push the brake peddle all the way to the floor, those seals get into that bad area and can get torn. When I have to do it that way, I only go down half way.

You have a 550 Mv draw. Max draw on a good system is about 30 Mv.

Thanks for the info, sounds like a good price.

I use 2 ceramic heaters each on the low setting, 750wt. The low setting is because The main breaker is 30amp. One down in the living area an the other in the bed and bath area. When it,s 25 outside, the inside temp is about 57 in the morning. that's when the main heater gets turned on. Your 5er looks a lot bigger than mine so I'm guessing you have a 50amp box and might take the higher setting on the heater.

Here in San Diego county a half cord of oak is $200 and $20 more to stack it. I work from home, been running a mobile repair businesses for going on 20 yrs. I specialize in Volvo repair.

"Bleh, I'm burning up a 7 gal. propane tank every 3 days or so now this week. Doing the best to keep this darn trailer warm, but its not built like a house! I think I'd rather fight to keep this thing cool instead of warm!" Can You supplement your' heating needs with and electric space heater? That's what I do when I'm camping with hookups.

Trailer looks really good, a fine job looking for details and thinking ahead. To bad about the light. You know she was just trying to help and s#%* happens. :banghead:

Yes I use to own one but 86 it when the pump went out. It works like a garden sprayer. Take the pump out, put brake fluid in the tank to the fill line, put pump back in, pump up the pressure, instal cap with quick disconnect fitting on brake fluid reservoir, attach hose from fluid tank, open bleed valve, open bleeder. Do not over pressurizer. I now use a vacuum bleeder that attaches at each bleed valve and use suction and dot4 fluid with a boiling point of 500f degrees. I can also use the vacuum pump to suck out other fluids, or test air and vacuum solenoids.

Worked out side today in shorts and a sweat shirt. High today 60 with a cool low of 39.

and tastes good too.

The last time I had to shovel snow at my house was NEVER! That way I live in this over regulated, over policed, over taxed, with broken down roads, crappy schools, piece of $#%* state!

You need a good amp meter that is fused (in case of over load) disconnect the negative battery cables, with the amp meter set on the highest scale (20 amps or better) attach the positive lead to the negative battery cable and the negative lead to the negative battery post. If you don't see any reading go to the 500 milliamp setting, if still no reading try the 50 milliamp setting. A reading under 30 milliamps is o'k. When you first complete the circuit you may see a high reading , wait 2-3 sec. the reading should come down. If your' reading a draw of 2-3 amps there's a blub on.

Mine did the same. The hobbs switch is adjustable. There is an adjusting screw under a rubber cap. Turn it clockwise to increase the cut off pressure. I used an ohm meter and the fuel pressure gauge to fine tune it.