IBMobile

I'm looking at the factory wire diagrams and I don't see that black/white wire connected to the battery but as the grounding leg of the solenoid in the starter relay. This is why when you connected the 2 wire together the other wire was the lead (violet/black) to the back up lights and the PCM was grounding through the blubs.

Why is there corrosion around the battery terminals? It's because the seal between the battery post and battery case is bad, The battery gases venting there cause the corrosion.

This is what my radiator looked like before cleaning

My truck and trailers This one was taken last September Below is JAG1 truck camping in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Below is another pic of Mike's truck taken in August at the Eclipse meeting

I buy the cheapest coffee maker WalMart sells. They cost around $12-15 and last 2-3 years making 2-3 pots a day. I rotate the new one to the 5th wheel the old one to the house and the broken one to the trash.

Tapping the BK/WT wire at pin #6 C1 at the PCM, install a switch and running it to ground will do the same thing but the code will still set. What if you put a resistor (33 ohm 1/2 w) in line. This works on the Mystery switch set up to keep the PCM from setting a code.

@Dieselfuture I'll be camping near Harlan then then West Des Monies the last week in April so I'll be able to compare

I just did mine yesterday. Took it to the local self car wash. They are set up to clean and recycle the water there. Take your time and let the exhaust cool off. This is so no steam gets into electrical connections and no thermal shock on exhaust manifold and turbo. .If you have a BHAF take it off and cover the turbo intake opening. I used a plastic shopping bag held in place with zip ties. I spray everything with Greased Lightning. Be carful of the cleaner you use because some of them will etch aluminum. If there is a heavy buildup use a stiff brush, one made for cleaning parts, and work the area to loosen the grease/dirt. I start at the top and work down this way the cleaner can drip down on other parts. If your at a car wash set the spray selector to rinse, put the money in and start spraying. I do the bottom of the engine first so there water dripping down and I'm not laying in a puddle of dirty water, You can use a large peace of cardboard to lay on if the ground is wet. Be sure to spray front to back and back to front hitting all surfaces

Which two wires did you jumper together? The BK/WT (black/white) wire, which is the ground for the starter relay and pin #6 C1 at powertrain control module when the transmission is shifted to park or neutral. The BR/LG (brown/light green) wire which has battery voltage from fuse #7. The VT/BK (violet/black) wire goes from the PNP switch to the back up lights and grounds through them to the body. It looks like it would be the BK/WT and VT/BK wires. That would ground the PCM as if in park or neutral and also let you start the engine in any gear negating the park/neutral safety switch.

I was driving around in San Diego yesterday and today and the streets are all pot holed. I went in to another city, Escondido, and the streets there aren't much better. Now, it's not like we have snow and ice to tear them up, just a little rain. The main problem is the politicians spending the gas and car tax money on every pet project but the roads. I'm going to be in Idaho the second week of May. I'll see if the roads got any better or worse since the last time I was there in August.

In 2011 it was $316. The next year with the handicap deduction the fee dropped to $104. This year $98. The state passed a fuel and registration tax increase so this year I'll be paying an additional $25 plus.

And the roads in Idaho are in better shape than CA too.

If you're handicapped California will let you register one commercial vehicle with a handicapped plate and the weight fee is waved. The registration on my truck dropped over $200 a year when I did this.

The only thing the transmission and fuel sender/gauge have in common is the PCM.

For around here. When on a trip: everything everyone above has plus a full set of new hoses, serpentine and fuel boss belts, Timbo APP, OBD 2 code reader, 1/4" drive electric ratchet, 1/2 electric impact gun, soldering gun, wire, connectors, relays, full set of ratcheting metric combination wrenches along with a few other things. A lot of this I carry in the 5er.

This is where it went.

Pull the relay and jumper between where terminal #30 and terminal #87 of the relay would go. This way the fuse is already in the system and no need for a long jumper wire. I generally use a large paper clip as my jumper. If you have a compressor you can use the compressed air to blow the wet area dry to help find the leak.

I just bought one for $5.46. Cheap Thanks

OK, so boost elbows are lame and these work much better. I've never seen one. What are they called? Where do they go? How do they work? Where do you buy them?

Won't Taxachusetts charge some kind of tax when you bring the trailer into the state and register it. I know California would. They did it to me when I moved here from New Hampshire.

I'd get the bigger trailer. Peace of mind knowing that the trailer can handle the load when needed. Think of the extra $1,000 as a one time insurance payment.

It's done the same as the manifold. Right, the curved piece is the bent top of the pyrometer thermocouple. Can't remember why it was drilled on the side but it worked for years. The thermocouple was relocated to the manifold and that fitting is capped.

You can drill and tap the hole if you don't have a welder. I did mine 13 years ago.

No, It's stiff rubber with no give.