JAG1

Just make sure they not from North Carolina somewhere..... I hear they got fleas.

Mine is just starting to flatten, but also going to attempt fixing the seat heater on the drivers side. 01cumminsforeve, where is the Husky Liners for the floor? that really dresses it up. I have the black ones even tho everything is agate. Black looks the good on the floor contrasting with everything.

I like your bumper and think its nice work Just want to mention that I felt real bad one day when I saw a very nice lady injure herself in a parking lot on the receiver hitch/ ball on pick up parked next to hers car, she walked right into it, nothing to protect her leg since it was summer. You could tell she was a nice person when I asked if there was anything I could do and it made me feel worse with her trying to hide the pain she was in.

I have a Tee in in each fuel line about 18 inches or so before the VP that a schrader valve is threaded into that. I got them from Eric at Vulcan Performace parts. From my limited experience I trust Isspro gauges the most.

Since I have two second gens I installed schrader valves in the fuel lines and purchased a fuel pressure test gauge. It is supposed to be very accurate being that it is an industrial gauge with it's own air bleed button. I was surprised to find both mechanical gauges in the cab where showing less than actual pressure. One showing 4.5 lbs less than actual (was after removal of the isolator) and the other truck showed 1 lb less than actual.(no isolator). I was disappointed. They are both mechanical gauges, The more accurate is the standard Isspro which is a couple years old.

You are understanding what to do well enough. Those 4 smaller sensor wires get grounded together on the back of the front gear case just below the VP44 and a little toward the driver side, there is a factory threaded hole there to use. I cannot remember the size, but found two bolts I needed by trying different sizes from my bolt bin.

No I haven't done that before. Anyone have a shop manual with a pic they can post up? I do know that Dodge likes to confuse what we generally learned growing up on Chevys and Fords. If you look for the weirdest thing you will probably find what holds it on there. Sometimes it takes me an hour solid hunting to find what Dodge designed. When I was young I had very little patience. Sometimes if I looked just a little longer it would have been much better than calling on Dripleys Destructive chickens.

That very funny Dripley....... I vision this where you get on it, pedal to the metal before she strapped in, door barely shut.

I've never replaced the entire tensioner, only change to a new wheel with the bearings. Last one was 29 bucks or so. I place the tensioner in the vise to unbolt the wheel and replace. It takes a star type torque tip to get it off. Take the tensioner with you to get the right size tip.

X2 here..... AO Cortez would love that truck.

Welcome to the Forum, it looks like you found a good truck. Finding a shop like you are talking about is not easy to find. It's best to consult people on this forum before jumping into something. All we ask is that you share your experiences, either good or bad, to help other members on their trucks. Don't forget to add 2 stroke oil to the fuel so the lubricity level is correct for the injection pump. Adding 1 oz. per gallon is good.

It's become tradition that we harass the Chicken man from time to time. Does CFA own that one too?

Do they have buckshot pressure gauges? And good pop off pressures?

If running with the cap off doesn't make a difference try helping the regulator break in a little (assuming it's a new regulator) by turning it up to about 27 and back down to around 6 at idle. Do that several times. This helped both my new Raptor pump regulators when new and were acting up. This was suggested by none other than Mopar1973Man after doing everything possible to stop the erratic pressure readings that drove me bananas on both my 2nd gens..

Since you have good fuel pressure when you first start it up, then later it goes low at idle after a run it sounds like symptoms of a clogged tank vent. That will create a vacuum in the tank at idle that it cannot overcome like when running higher RPMs. Go for a run with the fuel cap off and see if any difference.

There is one in particular thats in N.C. no ones been able to get. I understand there's a 10,000 dollar bounty on it

To be honest with you I myself wouldn't do it. Somethings would be best left alone so you can spend your time on things less expensive/ troublesome and have simpler living. Like target practicing on chickens.

Benz Spring in Portland, Oregon has a great reputation for making custom springs. You could give them a call since they know what they could do for you and have them shipped. Their pricing wasn't bad the last time I dealt with them on my old first gen. That was quite a while ago though as I'm old fart now according to the Millenials.

You guys got me real scared now since my coolant bottle keeps needing coolant. Refill about 1-2 inches each day, but I'm hoping its just the engine burping from a water pump replacement last weekend. I was changing the starter when coolant was dripping on me cheeks. No Dripley it the cheeks on my face not the way your thinkin'

I'm understanding that the white color is baked coolant, is that the same yours looked like Mopar1973Man?

There are a lot of places that just don't do the kind of work that you yourself can do......I seem to be constantly reminded of this when paying for work and see quite a bit of shops caring too much about the money and not the people they are servicing. Together with some of the untruthful information handed out..... I guess it's hard to let go of some of the frustration. That's why I just call Mopar 73 Man. He walks you thru when not understanding something your doing and then I try to send in a little extra donation to help his cause.

Mine too on the 02 with the fob but, with the key it only unlocks one door, on the 01 with the alarm you can unlock both doors from either side using the key. or the fob.

So you got destructive chickens that you can just point and it's taken care of? Please don't show them my picture.... I'm puttin it on your truck next time I see you. At any rate I may have discovered or gotten an idea how to permanently disable that alarm. It would have to be something you do with that switch behind the key lock/ cylinder. Somehow make the truck think it's always unlocked with the key, but somehow separate the inside lights to go off as they should when you start it. I think you would loose the ability to unlock or lock the other door too, but that's how non alarm trucks are set up anyway.

When I unlock the door with the key on the drivers side the interior lights do not come on which also means the alarm is still on. When I unlock the door on the passenger side there is no problem, the lights come on and the alarm shuts off. I can open that door without a problem of setting off the alarm. I figured out the problem today when removing the drivers side door lock actuator. I discovered the problem was in the switch above directly behind the cylinder lock. It is a switch that's only function is to turn on the inside lights and shut off the alarm and signals to the door lock actuator on the passenger side to either lock or unlock the passenger door. I looked around for a part number on the net and LMC truck parts catolog, but could not find any reference for it. So I went about finding a way to fix it temporarily after finding that if I held it a certain way it would work without fail. I simply zip tied it to the slight tilt I held it at and now works on every try. Hoping I can find a new switch before it acting up again. Thanks for all the interest in being a helpful group. The morale and support is great. As always I learned a bit more today. A good feeling having some knowledge about a problem over a dark abyss and resorting to target practice over it. ....... The Henry rests!

Do you mean that it chirps while running all the time or when shutting down?