Doubletrouble

Ok, thanks.

I looked at my build sticker in the glove box for the rear end gear ratio and I noticed the rear axle states it's an "anti-spin" differential. In dodges terms is this the same as a posi traction or locker? Just curious. Thanks!

Yeah I get that dripley, time at home is worth a little less mpg. I won't go crazy with the mpg battle but I figure once the motor wakes up a bit with better power through injectors, tuning and a few other light mods to make it more efficient. I don't expect to get 20-25 mpg but a little better than the 16 I get now would be good. It will probably go up some once we get out of the winter blend fuel season as well.

I'm unfamiliar with the term hypermiling. What does that mean? (Sorry if it's a dumb question) I'm watching this thread as I would like better mpg eventually.

Well if you ever head to Ohio I'll be here. Lol Now that I have a truck that I could trust pulling a camper up a hill or mountain I'd like to travel further and see some things my self. The wife loves to travel to different places as well. She didn't travel much as a child so there are a lot of new things out there for here to see.

I agree Mike, it's time to mourn, heal and then move forward. You have a new life ahead of you with Eileen and many wonderful things to come and new memories to make. You and her can now concentrate on one another and allow your relationship to grow. The pain and sorrow will eventually subside and you will be able to replace it will love and happiness and have all the wonderful memories of your parents. I wish you well my friend, it is a process but I'm sure with your family here and your new family with Eileen you have many friends and family to count on.

Not that I could see.

Prayers to you and your family. Sorry for your loss. I lost a loved one Friday as well. I hold peace in the fact that her suffering is over and in God's hands now.

Not to bad of a job on a K1500. Top bell housing bolts are a bit if a pain unless the truck has a body lift. Me and a buddy have done several. Nice looking shop! I'm a little jealous.

That all being said, I'm guessing I will need a draw straw along with the big line kit? I will probably go with 3/8" line. I don't plan on crazy upgrades in the future. Mild at the most. I just have to plan things in stages. We all know these can be very expensive projects. I will have the truck for a long time and plan on upgrading gradually. Side note: one of the reasons I bought a diesel was it's reliability, can't go pumping thousands into it right off the rip. Wife would flip. Lol I also want to perform alot of preventative maintenance since I don't know the history of the truck. Cooling system flush, oil change and so on. Also have some cosmetics to fix. Mainly some slight rust issues (welcome to Ohio). The transmission also needs a bit of attention, syncros are out shifting into 3rd gear so double clutching for now to avoid the dreadful grind. Plans are: fuel system big line kit tank to LP and LP to VP and relocate LP to frame. Gauges, FP, Boost, EGT BHAF After that I'll consider maybe upgrading injectors and possibly a mild tuner. Baby steps. I don't have a set HP goal, mainly want a bit more grunt with reliability and maybe a bit better mpg.

I want to begin to upgrade my fuel system, truck is stock for the most part (see sig) but does have a FASS ddrp lift pump. What I'd like to do is relocate the pump to the frame near the tank with a relocation kit and run a big line kit from the tank to pump, pump to filter housing and then filter to VP44. Can I do this in steps? Such as filter to VP first, then relocate pump and run the rest of the big lines at that time? Or should I just accumulate the parts and do it all at once? Will I also need a draw straw with this setup? Also, will the larger lines decrease pressure? I'm not a fluid expert but I would think larger lines would increase volume but possibly lower overall pressure? I would go to a better FASS setup but that expense is not in the budget at this point, I have other things on the truck to do as well to set it up for towing our camper. I do want to address the fuel system this year though. It will all be a work in progress over a period of time. Thanks for any input.

I try to keep 2 stroke on hand at all times for chainsaws anyway, just have to keep more on hand now. I looked at Walmart the last time I was there. Their 2 stroke went up, it's now $26/gallon. I'll have to check at my local farm stores and see what they are charging. Also, I am not quiet familiar with some of the terms when it comes to diesel fuel content. What is the HFRR reference that I have seen on a few of the fuel threads? What does that stand for?

So as the owner of a basically stock truck, with stock ecm and no tuner am I ok if say I take a trip somewhere and am stuck buying bio-diesel or bio-mass diesel? Assuming it's spring/summer temps out no additives other than 2 cycle oil for lubrication.

When you are hooked up to a water source the TT has a bypass valve in order to just pressurize yor water system without filling the tank. As far as the toilet, they have a foot valve to flush them. Simple step on it and the trap door opens and water starts to flow to flush the contents down in the tank which is normally directly below the toilet.

Your dash looks like mine just different color. Lol I'll pm you.

I need to get some gauges

I don't think I would try the liquid stuff. You certainly don't want any of that making its way into the fuel line. That would cause a lot of havock. Doesn't loctite make a thread sealer as well? Though I read about it somewhere while looking for something else.

I was just curious if she was in the average range for what it is. As far as the abs sensors, I had a Chevy suburban that the abs light came on. Had to remover the sensor and clean the mating surface. It would get a bit of rust build up under there and increase the gap between the tone wheel and the p/u. I haven't checked for this on the Dodge yet. Honestly, it's been cold and I haven't felt like it. Lol

Prayers to you and your loved ones.

The speedometer works just fine. The light is an annoyance more than anything. Once it warms up I will address it. A buddy has an expensive snap-on scanner that does abs. I'll see if his will read the codes. If not I can just replace the sensors and see if that fixes it or take it to a dealer for scanning. Just don't like going to a dealer for much of anything. Very expensive just to plug into it.

Yes it is winter blend diesel around here (northwest Ohio) so I imagine it would improve some in the summer. I also snapped a couple pics of the live data scanner while the truck was idling. I've attached them for y'all to look at. I'm new to diesel pick ups so let me know if you think something might be off. And yes, the abs light is on. It flashes constantly. Not sure why, my scanner won't link to the abs system. Brake light is only on when parking brake is set.

I was just reading your write up on low pop pressure and how to recognize it. I have an obdII scanner with live data. I will plug it in next time I drive it and check the engine load at idle. Mine tends to idle a bit above 800 rpm so I am now wondering if it is due for injectors. If so, would it be better to go with a slightly bigger injector? Like a 50hp or 75hp?

I have a 2001 3500 dually 4x4 quad cab long bed, stock tire size, nv4500 5 speed with 3:55 gears. What is the average fuel milage expected from these trucks? The only "mods" done that I know of are a FASS ddrp pump in factory location and the exhaust has been replaced but nothing crazy. I measured the tailpipe it's 4" but have not measured the rest under the truck yet. So to my knowledge it's pretty bone stock with 141k on the clock. Last I checked I was at about 15mpg. Mainly to and from work, about a 20 Mile drive, about 5 of that is considered city the rest is state route 60mph or highway about 65mph. Just curious if I'm around the norm for what I have. Thanks.

On Jeeps they would act like that when the steering box broke loose from the frame but that wouldn't explain the fluid puking out. That's an odd thing going on there.

I am curious of the syncros as well. I will be paying attention. My 3rd year syncro was out when I bought the truck. I have been double clutching 3rd to avoid grinding the gear down for now. I want to at some point replace all the syncros and do one of the 5th gear fixes to avoid that problem in the future. Possibly a clutch at the same time. I don't plan on a bunch of big power mods in the near future just don't want the trans to crap the bed while pulling our camper or something.