guesswho512

i replaced my oem batteries for the big ones from wallmart when my starter contacts were going out last year. i was a little irritated but starter contacts were ~$24+shipping. the wallmart batteries are 1000CCA and at $75 bucks a pop. i get slow starts now. when i took the clutch hydraulics out to bleed them, i guess the clutch switch isn't in the same spot. i almost have to put the clutch thru the floor pan. but people are more likely to put the clutch to the floor, since it took them 5mins to realize the reason they couldn't start my truck is cause they didn't put the clutch in enough!

thats about like my 2yr old. daddy is working on his truck. she goes gets her bike rides over to the truck, and grabs a handful of wrenches so she can "fix" her ride.:lmao2:i try to encourage youths to work on their own vehicles by loaning tools/jacks/air compressors. seems like no one knows about vehicle maintenance. most people i know with automatic transmissions have never even changed the fluid!

YES! i save them for my accountant. i right the odometer miles down on the back of the receipt. it has a date and time stamp. that is how i catch my mileage log up....and then i hang on to them with my schedule "C". how long are you suppose to keep tax documents?

my grandpa always uses needles(maybe for sewing, i don't sew) that are a "T" and claps alligators to that to test wires. you can use a multimeter to see the amperage. or see from the manufacture how many amps the said device is rated for

yes. the anti-stall fuels it enough to keep ~800 rpms

heck, i take off in 2nd and don't even have to give it gas. the anti-stall launches the truck forward. i could not spin the 33s in 2nd(and barely in first), but a little pedal will spin the 245x75r16s

bumpanyone else have an opinion?

were talking about no load right? take off in first and have to shift 2 more time before i get thru the intersection? i think not. i only use 1st if i'm on a hill or pulling a trailer.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=130 page 7, last paragraph. not trying to sling mud, but i don't want anyone to think i made that number up.

so if i had a faulty APPS...it would show up during cruise control?

i don't know about the pop pressure, but the VP44 can produce up to 26100 PSI

i changed the fuel filter in the canister the other day. after draining the can most of the way down i noticed a gold blob sitting at the bottom(separated). after thinking about it, i shoulda touched it. i just took a photo and poured it out.i don't run fuel additives. the only additive i have ran since the last filter change is TC-W3, but quit using it as i have been using 5% bio. when i saw it, it made me think of frying oil.has anyone else ever seen this?

when you have the cruise on, does the ECM/PCM use the APPS? if you have an APPS related DTC, would the CEL come on?

i believe that is just a cover...ie goes over you cracked dash --- Update to the previous post... i stand corrected. they have both covers and a replacement dash

can you say, bad relief valve? the cheapo set of gauges i got at harbor freight broke on the second use. i thought i would just check the dodge. if memory serves i had ~40psi lowside, and ~255psi highside. as i was disconnecting the crimp on the high side blew off sending freon and oil all over the front end! the hoses said they were rated for 500psi! i took them back. the gauges seemed ok...but at $45, sometimes you get what you paid for

i've been following your "events" for awhile, jl. and when you started down the harness path, it made me wonder....in the cable industry, when we are looking for a bad spot in the line(possibly 100s or 1000s of feet) we use a TDR. the TDR sends a RF wave down the copper. the TDR then tells of any impedance on that line, and how many feet away that is. could something like this be used to test an engine's harness?

i don't know about quality, but right now O'reilly's has monroe shocks. buy 3 get the 4th free after mail in rebate. i have been wondering about bilstein and if they are worth the money?

if the bearings have any numbers on them, O'reilly's does an awesome job of matching them up!

my dash had a few cracks in it when i purchased the truck. over the course of 3 yrs the cracks have become much larger and many more. the dang thing would rattle and creek driving down the highway. nothing some black duct tape couldn't cure. supposedly there is a company that gives a lifetime guarantee that their dash won't crack. anybody know who?

check your vacuum lines. the vacuum pump sits behind the power steering pump. there is a thick vac line that comes out of the pump, up to the cowl on the drivers side. at the cowl there is a T. at the T on side goes to the AC and the other to the cruise.

i have a 53 block. no problems so far. i think the problem is most people that have them don't know or care. continued use means the crack is going to spread.

that is how mine is installed. no problems so far. if you left the stock return line in place then there is nothing left to do. the return path has nothing to do with the fuel canister.

i have not been able to hit 20+MPG since i change the rears from 33x12.5r16.5 to 245x75r16. and those were some heavy beasts! but it lowered 60mph rpm.

i don't know how the anti-stall works. i would think that if you can turn high idle and 3 cylinder idle on with a DRBIII tool, maybe you could turn the anti-stall off. if you could find a stealership that has a DRBIII and who is cool enough to try?

funny you should say that. a week or 2 after buying my truck, i went on a business trip to Taunton, MA. when i went thru NY, they had sign posted every saying if your diesel idled more than 5mins you were going to get a ticket! still to this day i have not payed as much for fuel!