guesswho512

what if you pay $100 for a 55gallon barrel?

no. the restriction would be the output of the canister. those stock lines are really small. you can order the big line kit from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffip.htm or you can read what the pieces are from that page and order them individually.

or 2stroke blue

looking at the big picture...the AirDog 100 uses the factory fuel pickup(ie the tiny fuel lines). the AirDog 150 comes with DRAWSTRAW1 so you don't have a restriction at the tank(before the pump). you will need a few extra fitting, but the AirDog should come with enough hose to include the factory fuel canister(ie fuel filter and heater), mine did.i personally would not spend the $ on a hot rod VP44. you can make plenty of power upgrading injectors or chips.

congrats to W&F

is the light anymore focused? driving at night sucks when you cannot see the road

no problem. i just happened to have the hood popped and no kids that afternoon!

i agree. wait till the tank is nearly empty. i may have removed the drive shaft. my buddy did it in about the same time . in retrospect, i wish i would have dropped the $ for a different draw straw. then you could run the return into the same as the pump pickup. if the vp44 really does return up to 70% of the fuel, then the fuel wouldn't have far to go. not to mention, not cutting my filler neck.

what is nice is you can stand straight up and work inside the van! doing cable contracting, i've always thought a sprinter would be sweet. i wounder if you could put a 30' bucket on that van? they put em on E350s

mine is just a rubber cap with an air fitting in the center. i found some random coupler that screwed on and used 2 washers to clamp the rubber. i drilled a 3/16 hole and stretched the rubber over the air fitting.

oh i tend to hang around http://www.therangerstation.com/ just thought i would see what others are doing

you can pressurize it to a point. the clamp i am using is a regular screw type hose clamp. it starts to try to slide off at~4-5 psi, but i did (very briefly) get up to 15psi, before backing it down. a clamp like what is on the intercooler boots is what is really needed. the fenders are rubbing both of my intercooler boots. right now its only on the raised edge of the inlet/outlet, and isn't leaking from what i can tell. the first time i did it. i swore i heard air going out the exhaust. either the wastegate isn't closing completely or valve overlap --- Update to the previous post... to test the wastegate, i took the rubber hose off the 90* and stuck a blow gun to it. set the regulator and test away.

i have the same thing. came on the big line kit(from canister to VP44). i have the tapped 90* on the VP44(since my canister has ports), but you could swap it around and put it on the canister. either way it is after the filter

anyone got one of these?i have a 00 single cab, I4 2.5l, 5speed, open 7.5 with 3.73.the thing is so basic that it does have a tach or shift lighthave done and are doing some mods and repairi have a explorer 8.8 4L11 that needs some love before it goes under the old girl. why do these little trucks always have saggy leafs?

taking a stab. on the side of the block where the normal lift pump would be. look for a pig tail. it probably has something plugged into it running back to the tank.(guess based on, they wouldn't change the harness to retrofit that pump.) my ad150 came with the drawstraw1. so you should be able to bypass it all.

i feel the exact same way. the jump between 3rd and 4th is quite large, but never changes. my driving style has adapted to it. i have ran in to a lot of people selling their cummins because of all the rowing of the stick. it doesn't bother me. and the NV4500 is plenty strong for the CGVW the truck was made for.

sounds like a trip to the salvage yard is in order

why are you putting it on the bottom when its much easier on the top http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=447 take your pick

here is my version of the same thing...the last pic is it in action with ~12 PSI. i had to put my finger over the "boost elbows" hole.

good find! i recommend adding it to the downloads section!

i noticed the same thing. remember that pressure, by its self, rarely gives the whole picture. i would think that the piping and size of valves play a large part in the PSI

had similar problem in the ranger. turned out the brass bushing in the output housing was scored and worn. even had to get a new yoke.

red lasers will not work. only green or blue. using optics and mirrors, you don't need much power.

before i did my radiator flush and fill, my average coolant temp when empty was ~145. i might have hit 190 when pulling a heavy trailer. when i did the flush and fill, i replaced the thermostat with a oreilly's thermostat(murry was the brand name). after that my temps are 185-195 empty, and 190-200 with a trailer. the thermostats where not the EXACT same dimensions, but fit and the springs where much stiffer. like you, i was also concerned. after asking some people, everyone said i was normal. if i was you i would make sure or radiator isn't plugged and free from defects. maybe you could find a "cooler" thermostat? --- Update to the previous post... here's the link to the thread i had http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1840-engine-coolant-flush