Oil change

[notlimah]

I know this topic can get a little heated so I'm really not trying to start that up, just want to gather some info.

 

It's time for another oil change and I'm doing it myself. My dealer raised their prices so it no longer makes sense to take it to them. Here's my questions

 

1. Currently have 15w-40 dino oil and looking to swap to synthetic. I've only seen Amsoil that has a synthetic 15w-40, does anyone else?

2. If I do put something like Rotella T6 5w-40, what's the chances of making leaks worse or appear?

3. Should I even worry about running a lighter weight oil when my current climate never see's 0* or below temps?

[jlbayes]

I've gone back and forth on synthetic and dino. Literally no difference other than my wallet after purchase. Ran the same intervals between them. No more leaks or noise differences.

[notlimah]

You got no leaks because you have a nice rebuilt engine right?! I'll probably just look into the regular ol dino then. Any specific brand you like more then others?

 

Also, my driveway has a bit of a nose up slope, would I be ok draining oil, then adding about 10 quarts and moving it to a more level ground then adding more and checking level then?

[IBMobile]

Why not do the oil change in a flat parking lot?   I've done literally hundreds of oil changes in paring lots (ie: Wal-mart, Safeway, apartments) and on the side of the street.  In 23 years of running a mobile maintenance and repair business I've only been told 4 times that I couldn't do that kind of work on the property.  Just don't make a mess.

[Mopar1973Man]

I've seen more high mileage vehicle on petroleum oils than synthetic oils. I've had worked on several Dodge Cummins trucks with over 600k miles and more with just petroleum oils used. Like my last oil change I ran Rotella (Rosmella) 15w-40 petroleum. The best thing to do for a good oil change on the Dodge Cummins is making sure to let it all drain out. This means bringing it to full operational temperature (190*F coolant temperature) bring it home and pull the drain plug and oil filter. Now walk away from it for few hours till it stops dripping. Then install the filter and drain plug and load it back up with 2.75 gallons of 15w-40 engine oil. 

 

Oh... Just for the record I'm running the new CK-4 engine oil and nothing has changed... The engine didn't throw parts either. Almost got a 1,000 miles on this oil already and I just changed it last Sunday.

 

As for climate I've been running 15w-40 just like all the big truck out here run. No block heaters or nothing. Just fired up and ran. Same with my truck I've lost my block heater cord years ago and never swapped oil because of cold climates. Out here you might get a weak or two of  -30*F then pop right back up to +30*F weather. Like most they start the engine allow it to build oil pressure and bit of heat before rolling. If I lived where the winter average temperature was minus constantly for the entire winter I would change out for 5w-40. With all the logging trucks up here still running and running 15w-40 without a problem I'm not going to panic either.

Edited June 24, 2017 by Mopar1973Man

[notlimah]

Thanks Mike, makes sense. I saw the Rotella at Walmart for a pretty good price. Figure I'd run that or something similar. I did check for the CK-4 label on the back and didn't see anything pointing it out.

 

What's your guys thoughts on just jacking up the rear to level the truck to change oil?

[Mopar1973Man]

11 minutes ago, notlimah said:

What's your guys thoughts on just jacking up the rear to level the truck to change oil?

 

In my case, it would be jack up the front axle, not the rear axle. I just say leave the engine to drain a long period and most will come out. Best to leave engine to drain over night. My last oil change I left the plug out for two hours and it stopped dripping. While it's draining I check the differential fluids, transfer case, power steering, brake fluid, pump grease in all the u-joints and ball joints. Pull out my grease needle add grease to my tie rod ends. Then pull out the tire pressure gauge check tire pressure and rotate tire if needed. The run around the truck with oil can and oil all door hinges, hood hinges, door latches and hood latch, then move to the tailgate and lube the tailgate hand release and the two latches.  While I'm at it adjust the parking brakes. So there is a lot you can do while its draining out.

[JAG1]

JMHO, I would also stay with the oil that the engine is used to running.

 

 

 

[dave110]

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've seen more high mileage vehicle on petroleum oils than synthetic oils. I've had worked on several Dodge Cummins trucks with over 600k miles and more with just petroleum oils used. Like my last oil change I ran Rotella (Rosmella) 15w-40 petroleum. The best thing to do for a good oil change on the Dodge Cummins is making sure to let it all drain out. This means bringing it to full operational temperature (190*F coolant temperature) bring it home and pull the drain plug and oil filter. Now walk away from it for few hours till it stops dripping. Then install the filter and drain plug and load it back up with 2.75 gallons of 15w-40 engine oil. 

 

Oh... Just for the record I'm running the new CK-4 engine oil and nothing has changed... The engine didn't throw parts either. Almost got a 1,000 miles on this oil already and I just changed it last Sunday.

 

As for climate I've been running 15w-40 just like all the big truck out here run. No block heaters or nothing. Just fired up and ran. Same with my truck I've lost my block heater cord years ago and never swapped oil because of cold climates. Out here you might get a weak or two of  -30*F then pop right back up to +30*F weather. Like most they start the engine allow it to build oil pressure and bit of heat before rolling. If I lived where the winter average temperature was minus constantly for the entire winter I would change out for 5w-40. With all the logging trucks up here still running and running 15w-40 without a problem I'm not going to panic either.

Rosmella, that made me laugh! I've been running it (15-40) steady in the last 2 trucks with no problems. It does have an odor for the first 1000 or so, but I've come to like it.

I also do my greasing and other periodic maint. while it's draining. You can chew up an hour or two without realizing it doing other stuff. 

11 hours ago, notlimah said:

Thanks Mike, makes sense. I saw the Rotella at Walmart for a pretty good price. Figure I'd run that or something similar. I did check for the CK-4 label on the back and didn't see anything pointing it out.

 

What's your guys thoughts on just jacking up the rear to level the truck to change oil?

If you have a Tractor Supply nearby, wait til it goes on sale. They run the 2.5 gal. jug for $30 here. That's $12 a gal. Pretty hard to beat. Old Sam Walton has enough && anyway  .

[JAG1]

I have a source for the old CI-4 oil and still use it in both trucks. It also smells very oily when up to full temps.

[AH64ID]

I too still run CI-4+ oil in my truck and will do so until Amsoil stops making it. 

 

With my low annual mileage I like the synthetic for the better winter performance and still only change my oil once a year.

 

The year after I rebuilt my motor I ran dino 15w-40 and it hated winter, even as "warm" as 25°F. 

 

Synthetic also does better at high oil temps and since I spend a lot of miles at 19-20K GCW I perfer synthetic then too. 

 

 

[WiscoRedkneck]

On 6/23/2017 at 4:45 PM, notlimah said:

You got no leaks because you have a nice rebuilt engine right?! I'll probably just look into the regular ol dino then. Any specific brand you like more then others?

 

Also, my driveway has a bit of a nose up slope, would I be ok draining oil, then adding about 10 quarts and moving it to a more level ground then adding more and checking level then?

My truck had 310k on it when I switched to synthetic no change in leaks or noises the only difference I can visibly see is, in winter oil pressure comes up faster but in summer a little slower.   Overall it has a way more consistent time to build pressure then with dino oil from summer to winter.

If you do it in your drive get it to the safe range then level the truck and top off or go to wally world with a drain pan start draining the oil then walk in buy the oil, filter and all other shopping then come out make sure it stopped dripping install filter and plug then add oil....

[01cummins4ever]

2 hours ago, WiscoRedkneck said:

 walk in buy the oil, filter and all other shopping then come out make sure it stopped dripping install filter and plug then add oil....

Caution... Wal mart sells el cheapo bottom of the line Fram oil filters. that I wouldn't trust on my lawn mower rather than put my 24v. at risk. No matter where you change your oil or what you use make sure you have a quality oil filter like fleet guard, mopar or even a Donaldson on hand. Oil filters are no place to save a few bucks weather its for convienence or quality.

[WiscoRedkneck]

I misspoke and was a bit misleading, at least by us you can get bosch or KN filters at wal mart and you are 100 percent correct on using a quality filter.  90 percent of the time I run a wix or napa gold I always have a spare fuel and oil filter around since the oil filter always gets changed before the oil, I use oil analysis to know when to change my oil.  I have the luxury of being able to give a friend the entire used  filter and about a quart of oil for free and his shop runs the test

[CTcummins24V]

Walmart near me carries mopar filters

[AH64ID]

1 hour ago, CTcummins24V said:

Walmart near me carries mopar filters

 

Yes, but they are often the Fram made Mopar filters and not the Fleetguard made ones. 

 

I prefer Donaldson Blue filters. Nothing else touches their ratings or life. 

[dripley]

56 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

Yes, but they are often the Fram made Mopar filters and not the Fleetguard made ones. 

 

I prefer Donaldson Blue filters. Nothing else touches their ratings or life. 

I use the blue ones too. Thanks for turning me on to them. Pretty good price wise also if you buy several as I remember. 

[jlbayes]

On 6/23/2017 at 5:45 PM, notlimah said:

You got no leaks because you have a nice rebuilt engine right?! I'll probably just look into the regular ol dino then. Any specific brand you like more then others?

 

Also, my driveway has a bit of a nose up slope, would I be ok draining oil, then adding about 10 quarts and moving it to a more level ground then adding more and checking level then?

 

Rebuilt engine? My name isn't @TFaoro. Heck no. Buncha 200k+ mile junk lol. I generally use rotella.

[Mopar1973Man]

On 6/26/2017 at 8:43 AM, jlbayes said:

 

Rebuilt engine? My name isn't @TFaoro. Heck no. Buncha 200k+ mile junk lol. I generally use rotella.

 

Make it 300k+ junk... Typically any "name brand oil" with API of CI-4 and above with a viscosity of 15w-40.

 

Gotta ask @dorkweed about his 84k oil change on SuperTech.

[TFaoro]

On ‎6‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 8:43 AM, jlbayes said:

 

Rebuilt engine? My name isn't @TFaoro. Heck no. Buncha 200k+ mile junk lol. I generally use rotella.

Yeah, but it blows oil out the tappet cover breathers like it has 550k