2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I'm still messing around doing my re-install of an airdog system (since Sept) I printed out the directions to have them with me in the carport. When sipping on a cup of coffee, I noticed under "trouble shooting" section Airdog says... "It is important that your ECM re-flashings are up to date. Contact your local dealer for the most recent re-flash". I've never had a re-flash, I never been to the dealer since I owned it in 2005. Had a FASS pump put in late 2006 and a new water pump and T-stat put in couple years ago. Is this a re-flash a CYA type statement or should I take this seriously? If so, is this re-flash a dealer item or wh…

Replacing the Airtex with an FRRP 100. The Airtex pump does away with the factory line that has a banjo type setup and just uses the quick connect fitting. I need this line for my FRRP to work but it is expensive....are there any cheaper alternatives? Assuming the P.O. just threw it out with the factory pump. I wish Airdog did the same as Airtex and did away with the banjo setup. Part number 8 in the photo....the line that has the support bracket on it.

I've realized that part of doing business is accepting whats available. Such as the nearly impossible 2nd gen 5 spd Trans on a fair priced truck. I found a very clean 2nd gen one ton dually, nearly perfect, it is priced right but, has the automatic trans. My question is... do the one tons come with a better built trans? More reliable? It has 177 K miles. It's a 1996.... are the front end problems the same as the 2002 trucks with trac bar and tie rods and BJs'? I might add, it was a power company truck so it was regularly maintained and will check fluids, and how she runs in the morning.

Rookie post even though we've own this thing since 2005. Often herd there are no dumb questions, well here is one Our Trailer and stuff in bed of pick up is about 12,000 pds loaded. 2001 truck is stock with 47re with a 4:10 rear end. When going up long mountain grades, I make it point to not go over 1150-1200 on my pyro. On long upgrades I usually end up falling in line with the big trucks and just chug up to the top about the same speed. But not unusual to be passed by other people pulling about the same weight, sometimes like I'm standing still. I understand newer equipment has bigger horsepower. I don't care if I'm not the first one to the top of hill or not.…

I am having a hard time deciding to so a • Single or dual disk clutch? • Which brand? •Weather or not to get a new flywheel? • If I should get the upgraded hydraulics? I mainly tow 6-7k 6-10 days a month. No further mods (Unless something breaks)

I ran acroos this post that pretty much describes a problem I've been having for some time now. First post that clearly explains why miss in idle when warm and why ac on it goes away. Any rpm above idle runs fine. One other question. When this happens is ac off idle is missing or ruff, if I turn the engine off then re-start ruff idle miss is gone why?????? From all the reading I've done on injectors seems the one's called rv275 seem very popular and majorty say they work very good. Anyone have any other thoughts comments on replacment injectors? Is it good idea to replace the connect tubes or just a new O ring k?…

I have a 2001 cummins 2500 all stock. Just recently put fuel gauge on and at idle I am reading 13psi and driving down highway I am at 10-11psi. I have a new lift pump on order but wont have for a few more days. Is it ok to keep running truck with this fuel psi till I get new pump in this Thursday. Or should I leave it parked for the few days.

I have play in the dana 70 when you move the yoke back and forth. It measures about an 1/8 inch worth of movement total is that to much. What is the max for the play.It regularly has metal on the dip stick in the cover. 243k on the clock.

Hey guys, I've had this issue since I bought the truck, but the IOD fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why. I do know that this fuse runs the OBDII port and several lights. I have checked all of the light connections and nothing seems to be shorting out. Can anyone throw out some more advice on why this fuse would be blowing?

As a new member just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I really can’t contribute much. Why? Well because I don’t know much. Even though I’ve had my 2001 since 2005 I have only done the simple maint stuff like change oil and filters. But that has changed after paying thru the nose for a bad install of fuel system. For last 3 years we’ve wintered in Yuma to get out of the wet of the northwest. The RV park that we stay at word travels fast. When our fuel system fell apart, the next day this guy I’ve talked to many times before walks up and asks what the problem was. At the time all I knew was truck wasn’t running and the garage was supposed to be calling…

Hi there,,,I'm a newbie,retired GM technician and frustrated Dodge lover. Recently I did the "easy" conversion from auto 47RE to a brand new NV4500 with upgraded Southbend clutch. My truck is a 2002 2500 4X4 SRW 24V with 110K miles,FASS150,RV275 injectors,Fleece Cheetah turbo,Banks air and intake. The conversion went relatively smooth besides some minor electrical glitches. I used all new hard parts along with a new PCM for a manual truck with my VIN programmed to it and Smarty programmed the ECM. It might be relevant to say that I had replaced my APPS unit ($Mopar) several months prior to doing the conversion because of failure codes,no pedal issues. Now,,,,,The conversi…

Hey so i got a 98.5 auto 24 valve an have been putting off for way to long the issue with my tc! Several months ago it stopped locking up and so I replaced the tc lockup solenoid on the valve body, and adjusted the bands while I was in there... didn't fix it!... so I took it to a dealer an had them hook up their code reader and they told me the lock up solenoid needed replaced and I had just replaced that so that made me think it was a wiring issue. And now lately whenever I turn sharp right the oil psi gauge on my dash goes to zero and the check gauges light goes on an then when I turn back straight it goes back to normal.... any similar issues? Fixes?

My 02 cummins 2500 4x4 with nv4500 has a rough idle or like a miss after the truck is warmed up. It smooths out if the AC kicks in or you let the clutch out just a little as if you were to roll ahead a bit. The truck has a new vp44, TPS, and FASS titanium pump. I've seen this problem posted on other forums but nobody had a fix to the rough idle. Anyone have this problem or have a fix for it? Any help would be greatful.

I drained my fuel from my fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets because I needed to fix leaky sump and mount Airdog pump in better spot. When I got ready to pure fuel back in noticed rather large beads of whatever (water, dirt, etc) mixed in with fuel. Finding micron sizing stuff on line, I ran fuel thru coffee filters (supposed to be around 20 microns). The fuel still didn’t look good to me. I then removed Airdog pump from truck and hung it in the fence and with long wires and a remote 12 volt switch and have been running fuel thru the Airdog filters. Airdog says one if its filters is 2 micron. I believe that filter is the one with a water drain valve. Fuel now looks …

Its been a few years since I did this and looking for a write up to refresh my memory, cant seem to find anything.

Hi guys. First post, been lurking for a while. My truck had the fuel gauge issue that reads empty when there's actually still a half tank. Anyway, last night I dropped my tank and pulled the unit out. Here are the issues I noticed. First, when I disconnected the lines, I noticed the vacuum nozzle had nothing going to it. Is that normal? Second, there is another nipple that is capped off. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flo22/media/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/Flo22/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg" border=…

A couple of odd problems bore their ugly heads today... I took my truck to get the tires rotated at lunch. After they pulled it out of the bay and handed me the key I couldn't get it to start to save my life. A month or two ago it gave me a fit starting, I pulled the clutch safety switch, cleaned it up and put it back and I haven't had an issues since. So, in the parking lot I reached up and pulled it out, tied the wires together and plugged that back in, but it still didn't start. I could hear a single click at the starter each time I turned the key. So, I am guessing the starter is bad. The guy at Les Schwab crawled under the truck (which is pretty great beca…

While looking at different fuel line set ups noticed a "ported" banjo bolt for the VP 44. I'm in process of installing 1/2 inch line from tank to VP44 via Airdog 100. In my head (maybe incorrectly) that a bigger fuel line equals more fuel available. My truck is all stock except for fuel line. I'm all for more volume and less restriction to get fuel from point A to point B. (Question) But is going from a (port) hole of .137 of an inch to .185 of an inch really worth it for a stock set up?

well guys it turns out I got the vp fixed right> oh don't remember yea I'm that guy that had a vp issue when I first joined , well guys I got some arp studs and a manifold and a gasket? why because I replaced my tappet cover gasket and it seemed to be leaking still well then it seemed my head was leaking?? no not really I got the gasket off and it looks perfect well??maybe, I'm no expert but guys the bolts look almost new ? or is that a common issue for the bolts to look new because they are preserved ?? also sorry for my typing I'm on a mobile phone, and asweel do I need to ge tmy head machine I mean the intake could be cleaned and I'm sure the valves could be checked…

Hello guys I thought it was my tappet cover but I replaced and still leaks, is there a common spot for oil to leak causing it to get on VP 44 lined and it runs down the top of tappet cover down back and drips