2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have had this issue for around 6 months or so. I will start from the beginning... Rebuilt transmission 1 year ago. 5-6 months later no lock up. Tested alternator Cleaned grounds Monitored transmission via snap on scanner Wired in lock up switch Added noise isolator Tested continuity on lock up cable to PCM. Tested apps Changed VB Changed solenoids Changed OSS Tested brake light switch All came back good Trans doesn't slip TC when it was locking didnt slip at all TC would lock up only if coasting whilst feathering throttle around 5% tps input. it would…

So I have been experiencing a gnarly vibration coming from somewhere in the drivetrain. The slip yoke into the transmission and the entire driveshaft is brand new so I'm inclined to rule them out. Nevertheless I inspected them and the u joints as I removed them and did not find any slop anywhere. Once I had the driveshaft off I noticed that the pinion had quite a bit of play both in rotation and in-n-out movement. I decided to tear down the pumpkin just to see what it looks like in there (I'm planning on changing gearsets in the next few months and thought exploring a bit in there couldn't hurt). I noticed the wear pattern seems to be way off toward the heel (…

Ordered a fuel gauge today http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/search.aspx?find=GS-T11_30 Hope it works ok!

Today I went to Tractor Supply Center to pickup some scratch feed for the chickens and notice they had their "Travelers" house brand 15W-40 Diesel Heavy Duty Motor Oil in the 2 1/2 gallon containers on the clearance shelf for $14.99. By my stubby pencil math, that comes to a $1.49 per quart. They had 9 2 1/2 gallon containers left on the shelf. Yours truly scarfed em all! I think 22.5 gallons of oil should hold me for awhile.

I know most of you use a BHF but this question is about the stock filter. I bought a Amsoil air filter 8000 miles back. Supposed to last 100k if blown out every 25k. Supposed to be made with some super fiber. My problem is at 8000 miles the restriction gage pops 65% plugged non towing. The filter is CLEAN! no dirt to speak of on it at all. I am confused.?????

Thinking about throwing my old injectors back in my truck. The 75s are plenty laggy and I don’t foresee any tuning in the near future to alleviate the problem. My old stock injectors have 128k on them. Any idea on how long they will last? I’ll clean them thoroughly before reinstalling.

Got the Quadzilla in and working. On power level 4 (add timing) My EGTs have dropped 50 degrees. With the EGT defuel set at 1250 and driving with some restraint I can keep them under 1200 no load. Pulling my trailer on 2 lane roads I shut off the overdrive, run 55 mph at 2150 RPM and my EGTs stay right at 1000. Trailer on the highway I had to rely on my foot and defuel settings. I added an entry level H2O kit. Spray starts at 8 psi and keeps EGTs below 1200. Overall my EGT problem is MUCH better but I still fell like I am missing something? No boost leaks. EGT 960 at 74 mph, 1960 RPM, and 2 lbs boost, and 23% load NO TRAILER. Do these numbers look right?

So I've owned the truck for about 3 weeks now. I've changed the fuel filters, oil change, all fluids bumper to bumper are at the right levels. It has a stutter that I can't quite isolate. I don't think it's a fuel issue because it fires right up, never struggles to start. Happens when it's cold more but still can happen when it's at temperature. If I could take a stab at it I would think it's the throttle position sensor because it happens when you barely touch the throttle for the first little bit then if you get on it more it smooths out so I would think rather than being a smooth climb (if you were to graph it) it would have a gap at the bottom and then be smooth the …

Hey guys, it’s been a while since posting but I have been checking in. Life is really getting in my way. I hope everyone is well. Now on to my issue. For the past few weeks my load (from OBDlink) at idle in gear has been very high. It’s higher now than when I’ve had my AC on previously. When at idle and in park it bounces between 0% and 4%. It’s when I put it in gear that it jumps up to above 15% (typically 18%-20%). I’ve also notice that my fuel rate has jumped to levels higher than when my AC was on (somewhere between 0.7 and 0.9 gal/hr). When I do have my AC on the load is well above 20% (around 24% +/-). Previously, with my AC on my max fuel rate …

I'm looking at a jacob brake off a 2001 5 spd with the HX35. Wondering if this will fit my 02 6 spd , and also wanted you guys to look at the pics here and tell me if it looks like it's everything here:shrug:. Seller says it doesn't have a switch with it for inside the cab because he's using it for lights now, so wondering if i can just use a normal toggle switch..and if there's anything else that doesn't look like it's there. He said something about a 4 wire mini harness that runs into the cab and connects to the factory harness ? Any ideas on that one. Also, I have the 4" MBRP turbo back which appears to be 3 1/2 " at the flange then expands out right away to the 4 " ho…

I recently got my high idle switch and so far install went easy everything seems to be of decent quality, however. It will kick on the 3cyl warmup when put in 6cyl mode and nothing happens in 3cyl mode. Any input? I watched a video on it and the IAT and ECT switch to the correct numbers and the led is the correct color but it doesn't do what it should be doing. Any help on this? Thanks @Mopar1973Man

About a week ago the truck started being a little difficult to start. I would try to start and have to give it a second set of cranks to get it to fire. Previously to this it would start almost instantly. No I don't have my fuel pressure gauge installed yet but do have a low pressure light on a Hobbs switch mounted on the VP. When I have difficulty starting I'm seeing the light come on a little and flicker. Never experienced that before. If I reved the motor up to 1200+ rpm pressure would stabilize. Now I don't see any visible signs of a fuel / air leak. I changed the fuel filter to see if that would help. It didn't look bad and made no difference. I know I need to get my…

so drivin down i25 @75mph with ac blowin cold outside temp 99F. temp gauge showed a bit higher than ive ever seen about 210. no problems, coolant is good never had a problem with overheating or over cooling till now. i wasnt hauling anything either. Now the issue i think is the tstat is stuck open allowing over cooling. barely will hit 170 in 99f heat with ac runnin doing 65. the fan is working fine, blowing strong but not locked. so i am gonna order a new 195f tstat and bolts then swap this week. thoughts?

So a little history on the truck its all stock no mods at all. Im driving the other day and my check gauges light came on, All the gauges looked fine except the voltage gauge. So the batteries have seen better days i got new ones. Installed those and the truck was fine until about 15 minutes driving it comes on again. I ordered a new alternator from oreillys and put that on. Still nothing. Im really confused as to what it is so i charged my batteries to get enough to where i could see the codes. Its throwing the p1698, p0252, p0234 codes. I also realized my Oil pressure gauge isnt reading nor is the voltage. Any help is greatly appreciated.Thank you.

Had the 5th gear retainer nut installed by my local shop about 6 months ago and now 5th is hung in gear. Just returned from that shop and was told they can't see any problem from shifter section on top of the tranny so it must be internal. He told me he shouldn't have to pull the tranny since 5th is in the tail section, that just means a little less in labor. This 5th gear is starting to $500 here $500 there me to death. He hasn't pulled the tail section off to see what exactly the problem is but I am sure it want be anything to do with the retainer nut because that is what he put in and said I would never have the issue again. So far he is correct I haven't loss 5t…

My 47RE is going out. Starting to chatter on low rpm lug in lock up and OD. I need to get my mind around gathering parts for the swap quick. Does anyone know how much I'll need to spend to get this done? Are there any sorurces that sell kit for reasonable prices? I have access to decent replacement auto transmissions locally for $1,500 tha have valve body upgrades, add $500 for removal and install and $1,000 for a torque converter and we are up to $3k. Can I do the swap for this amount if I do most of the labor myself? Kinda short on money. Saving for hip replacement surgery. Out of pocket looking like $5k plus living expenses while in recover.

99 ats auto , ddrp on frame w/ relay, mechanical fuel press , boost , egt , trans temp gauges ,75 hp injectors ,usually edge ez , but have a so3 also . So been letting the truck set since beginning of the year , while out of state , with overhead camper on , in the CA Sierras thru po1689 , po1698 , po 380 , and po382, had a code reader , Turbo bark , shut down ,on restart erratic idle wont gain rpms I guess in limp mode , long way from home no cell service , walked to a phone and called Cummins pacific in West Sac , Towed it there ,I had dealt with them years earlier with a cracked 53 block and buy parts there , only place that came to mind that I trust …

Thanks to all that share their knowledge. I just did the valve lash adjustment. Only took 4 hours. Not to bad for first time. Thank you Mopar1973man for your GREAT article with pix. Now onto my next project swap out the injectors for some RV 275. Couple more paydays then back here to get the info needed to do the job. The change in the sound at idle was amazing. Seat of the pants I would say 25-30% better running, seemed to get up to speed faster, will have to be careful already spun tires. Most of the valves were loose. intakes were .012-.013, exhaust .022-.023. I guess not to far out for 217778 miles.THANKS AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly…

Ok, my 01 will lug to the point it will almost die when starting off In first. When it lugs like that you can push in the clutch and it will get a burst of power and rev up some what. What the heck is going on there? I been running that way for a while. It runs fine in every way but when taking off from a stop. Cam sensor?