2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,279 topics in this forum
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Been trying to get this thing fixed, Went through the grounds and the 1488 and 522 codes keep coming back. Trying to trouble shoot from the book but seems it's just getting more confusing:mad: The book:1488= Auxiliary 5 volt sensor feed is sensed to be below an Acceptable limit. 5-volt Supply Voltage low. Sensor Supply voltage for E C M sensor is too low. book: 522= Oil pressure sending unit voltage input below the min acceptable voltage. Question? is there a sensor that supplies 5 volt's to the E C M?I thought the E C M did the 5 volt thing.:rolleyes:Thanks Ed.
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- 7 replies
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2001 coming up on 100K. Do all late 90's and early 2000's have killer dowel pin problem or just the 53 block? I know my odds of a failure are slim; coming up on 100K. But want to make sure. I'm unsure if "Mexican" block cracks more than the "53" series or if the killer dowel pin getting loose and falling is prone to one block or another or both? Thanks
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- 18 replies
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Hey guys - 5.9 cummins project getting a Jeep body swap on it. first post here hoping for some help! Since buying the truck in March I’ve recently replaced the cylinder head with a tested/inspected reman and threw in ARP headstuds and a new head gasket. After installing head I have no start. truck was running and driving perfect before and since the head it’s a no go. fass lift pump and thoroughbred diesel VP44 were each about a year old before I bought the truck. Lift pump is working as it should but I have a feeling injection pump has something wonky going on. When I bleed the rails, fuel shoots intermittently with a ton of bubbles. I’m getting a ton of air in the…
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So in order to complete my conversion kit for my he351ve swap, I'm having trouble deciding which exhaust manifold to use. I'm trying to figure out whether or not I will see anything negative with running the 6.7 manifold than the 5.9l. Flow restrictions, etc. Sound is not a huge deal since its all going to change anyways. I don't want to keep mulcher hanging by a string, lol.
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- 10 replies
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I don't think there is any real issue here, just thought this was weird. I have started my truck the last 2 days with the 3 cylinder high idle engaged. When I get in the truck my EGT gauge is only reading 50* while the Quad is reading around 560*. I have both sensors mounted next to each other before they enter the turbo. When I step on the brake and return to normal idle, both readings equalize. Does the 3 cylinder idle shut off the first 3 or last 3 cylinders possibly causing this? I kind of assumed it shut off every other cylinder, 1/3/5 or 2/4/6. If it matters I am using the moparman switch with the TSB enabled and not the Quad high idle functions.
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- 4 replies
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- 3 followers
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I just found out about the "53 block" and I have one. Does anyone know what the odds are that it will crack? It has 180,000 miles now and the person who had it before me used it to pull fifth wheel and goose neck trailers. It seems to have been well taken care of and is still fine. Should I be worried?
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Hello everyone I am new with dodge cummins and might be little slow of understanding few thing so please be paintent with me. I recently purchased a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 cummins and discovered that the block was 53 and that it was cracked. So I said no problem, and I went and got a 2001 long block for it. Upon changing over the wiring harness from my 99 to new 2001 I descovered that the 2001 did not have a crack angle sensor. Check on the 01 crank found that there is no wheel for the sensor. Now I know that 99 had a CAS but 01 and on didnot. My question is how do I midigate this problem. Do I change the crankshaft or there is an easier way to do this. Please help.
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- 10 replies
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http://www.locknstitch.com/cummins_5_9_block.htm I'm sure many of you here have seen this page before, I do not think I have seen much discussion on their "preventative measure" though. Would this be something worth doing?
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Finally got around to changing fuel filters at 54k miles. Don't look bad for 54k miles. No loss in fuel pressure either. Those where install 220k miles I just changed them at 274,500 miles.
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- 5 replies
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I know this topic has been beat to death. Sorry! I just bought a 2001 4 x 4 five speed with the NV 4500. At this time there has been no failure. My thinking is open up the back of the transmission verify torque and weld the nut to get some more life before an ultimate rebuild. Maybe that would be a waste of time and effort? TIA
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- 9 replies
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- 2 followers
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Starting this thread to help troubleshoot and document a host of problems with my father's "new" truck a 2001 24v 3500 dually with a 6 speed. Problems Truck will start and idle fine but will surge/buck inconsistently with throttle/load Codes p 1475 p0522 p0122 p 1295 p 0237 p 1488 and the companion code. Alternator ac noise seamed good <.03 No wait to start light but truck has a grid heater delete block on it not shure if it was installed "correctly" Probably is ecu but I'm going to check out the 5v system just to check. I did notice temp sensor was spliced thinking wires might be swapped? Grounding out the circuit Truck seamed to behave b…
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Got the cows unloaded before they got too hot.. I been hauling short trips to pasture all day, and this last load I got up on the road, and it was bucking all over the place.... clouds of blue/gray smoke. I shut it down and bumped the starter. No lift pump. I opened up the drain ____, and get a good stream only while the starter is engaged.. no 30 second run-on. The air dog was extremely hot. After half hour of open hood cool down, it started to pump again. Engine ran perfect (no smoke and easily rapped up to 3500 ) then about 30 seconds later, the pump shut down again. Mike, if that ecm is …
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Hi I have this most wonderful transmission in my truck. I'm trying to learn more about it and this is the best place for that!!! For starters, the truck has just under 100k miles on it. 1) FLUID TYPE: What fluid is best to use (The tag is saying Texaco STF 1874 Chrysler P/N 04874464) 2) FLUID TYPE: How much Fluid does it hold? 3) FLUID : Is there an additive that is advisable? 4) TRANSMISSION COOLER: Is there some sort of manual transmission cooler add-on for the trans that would assist in extending the life of the unit? I understand there were few of these made and the company that made them is out of business. Therefor …
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I believe I am having issues with my 6 speed manual... i have a good size rear main seal leak... 6 speed manual... lately i've noticed.. my fuel milage slipping... but it gets better after about 2 or 3 hours of hauling a medium load.... i don't get it...ill be towing a trailer and albeit i know 6s isn't a pulling gear after about 1900 rmps it will pull okay when you ask it too... but not the first 2 or 3 hours of my voyage... anyhow... i've had a few back yard guys look at my truck and they are all suggesting... im getting oil from my rear main seal to my clutch??? Is that even possible? Truck has been a hwy truck since 50000 km where i bought used ... back then it had a…
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Any body using the 6.7 water pump in their 5.9... if so see any improvements like when towing in mountains stays cooler longer before fan comes on? Any other pluses or minuses? Thanks
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Starting back in the beginning of 2023 winter I opted to play with 200 degree Cummins thermostat from a 6.7L Cummins. Now as winter got to the coldest of minus 7 degrees I was happy to keep a warm cab and engine. I watched over the winter time and as I was able to keep temps above 80 degrees in the intake manifold (IAT) I noticed an improvement in MPGs because cold air does rob the engine of ignition quality and more heat energy is not wasted to the coolant jacket. Now fast forward to now. I made a trip to Lewiston ID for monthly supplies and food. Still running a 200 degree thermostat in 90 degree weather. This is a Gates Thermostat and seems to hold steady …
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- 11 replies
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I have been tossing and turning, surfing every post I can find that seemed related for 2 weeks trying to get answers. I am on the verge of rebuilding my 1998.5 as soon as I buy a newer rig to daily from now on and have this one as a toy. I’ve read more than one post about 6.7 crank in a 12v. And ppump on a 6.7. I was looking at stock bore or maybe 20 over(is anything bigger safe?) with a 6.7l crank and it seems I need shaved pistons to make stock compression. Are the crank gears interchangeable? When I rebuild it I’m going to try my hardest to get the crank polished and balanced, pistons coated, rods polished and hardened. And maybe my head milled off if the budget will a…
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Ok - so you know I hate showing my "jr badge" ..... but 65 mph - start to get a shake in the truck front end. Can't feel in steering wheel.Only thing I notice at front end is the inside edge of the tread is definately wearing quicker. Can these 4x4 be balanced,aligned etc ?? Assuming balancing yes ...... alignment other ? Have newish shocks and springs - but they all look/ride ok.
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- 14 replies
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