2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hello. I'm a first time poster, but have gleaned countless amounts of valuable info from this site. Thank you all. Now the Question. I'm adding edge juice w/ attitude as well as a pac brake to my truck. Both require to be plugged in to the obd2 port. (My truck is an auto trans) I have seen obd2 splitters on the web but don't know if the separate components will operate at the same time. Thanks for your input.

Guys help, I have just purchased a 24 valve and drove 230 ish miles, next day it just died pulling from dq to a gas station, I added fuel and started truck it ran and idled fine, get going down road make right turn go 300 yards and it dies no idle just dies, well I removed edge ez, eventually rehooking, earlier today it would start and run then surge , eventually just die, now p0122 p1388 cam up, well, I reset everything even messed with apps, well noe it don't just dies again and is throwing the asd no signal code 1389, but I don't know, any help appreciated , thanks, edge is removed bte

I have just recently got my hands on a 2000 ram 2500 with 24v and 5 speed tranny. I drove the truck for a few days and it threw code p0122 and p0234, had diagnostics ran and replaced the apps. Drove for 1 day with no engine light and then it cam back on with the same codes. Got them cleared, checked voltage on apps and got it to .51 dc. Drove truck again and it done good for a few days then the light came back on with p0122, p0500, and p1693. I’ve checked voltage again on apps and it was .39 and couldn’t get it to set around .51, I’ve checked all wiring and grounds and it all looks good. truck is completely stock as far as I’m concerned beside a cold air intake. Please he…

I’m finally getting around to replacing all the battery cables and doing the WT mod. I have a very early 1998.5 24V, and all of the other posts and pictures about the WT mod seem to be on later second gens. I have pictures attached with markups. Can someone please confirm I’m on the right path. Thank you!!!

I've been having trouble with my 98.5 2500 for sometime now. I go to start the truck and it "lopes" about 10-12 times and dies. I have no throttle response when pressing the pedal while it does this. I have replaced vp44, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, throttle position sensor, grid heater relay, I have newer batteries, also cleaned the grounds really good in the batteries as they had a little bit of corrosion on them. When I turn the switch on it takes a couple of seconds for the WTS light to come on, when it comes on i can hear what I believe is the fuel pump priming. WTS goes off and I start it and it does the 10-12 "lopes" and dies. Any help or …

Found a replacement fuel tank for 2001 3/4 ton. It came with 3 rocks about 3/4 of inch by 3/4. My first thought was kids? Then again I wonder if the rocks were put in tank to slide around the bottom to keep it clean. Wondering if they were put in on purpose? Your thoughts... have you ever heard of this before?

To start with make sure you have the supplies to complete the install: 1. Wire crimpers and strippers 2. Wire connectors 3. Gauge pod for the steering wheel 4. electrical tape 5. Add-a-circuit fusible tap 6. Tons of zip ties 7. Wire connectors with a round end for a screw or bolt 8. Two sided tape (Usually comes with gauge mount) 9. Fuses 10. Sockets, screwdrivers, dikes, razor blade Next the install! 1. Take the front knee board off and set it to the side without losing the screws 2. Run the wires for the fooler through the gauge pod 3. At this step you can either use the supplied glue to hold the fooler tight against the mount, or you ca…

The headlights on my truck are not bright as they should be. What would be the best way to do this. Would LED bulbs be better? If so what all would I have to do to make this work? Just replace the bulbs or is there more involved? Is there other options that I can use? Any ideas would be appreciated .

Hi, my name is jeremy Excuse me to disturb you, I have a dodge ram 24V 2500 99 with a 47 RE tranny, I have a little problem with my tranny> All the shifts are good, but the problem is the 2nd to 3rd hesitate, i need to accelerate more to pass this shift, and the 4 is ok > Ive changed the governor pressure only, not the transducer,and there is no changing! but I ask to myself if the problems would be a 2-3 valve stuck on the valve body, or the TPS is faulty! I adjust the front band and the rear too, the fluid was correct, red, and there is no particulate on the filter he was clean! So I need to your help before changing something…

So I bought a 2nd gen, had high miles on it and could tell had been sitting. Upon buying I started having troubles, after driving it home 6 hours away I started trying to get it back to 100%. Narrowed down the first job to being bad injection pump, so I bought a new one and replaced it. Seemed to have fixed the issue and was running good, the truck doesn’t get driven daily it’s my farm truck, I started driving it a lot in the last month and when driving the truck is fueling really weird. #1. It does have hard start after sitting over night. After that starts fine all day. #2. When driving and maintaining speed say 1700 rpm you hear the turbo and fee…

Is the 4500 5 speed a good pick for the switch ?

Do you need to remove all the injector lines to remove the intake plate? I was looking at the Crazy Carls intake plate in the store and says it installs in about an hour. I know if I have to remove the injector lines it will take a lot longer than an hour.

It's being a REAL bast*** !! got the starter off, the bolt holding the retaining clip out, and even popped the dipstick tube up. I Can turn it freely.... but the dang o-ring has got a death grip! Does that have a groove it indexes in? or am I facing a dozen years of heat making that oring a permanent part of the block? Last thing I want to do is break it off flush with the block! :banghead: going to spray some penetrating blaster.... maybe that'll help break loose the oring Am I missing something? - - - Updated - - - worked like a champ! hosed it down with pb blaster, and wiggled it around, then it came right out! …

Anyone know what would cuase an intermittent click under the dash? It don't happen very often but it drives me nuts when it does it. It's kind of a high low high low click. Also when I left for work this morning it sounded like my fan was running? What would cuase it to run when temp is 45 outside and coolant temp is under 140 degrees?

What would be the culprit(s) for getting 1.45v at the VT/WHT wire right off the ecm for the camshaft position sensor.

I believe my DANA 70 housing is damaged and while searching CL for a replacement I found a DANA 80 SRW from an 02. What are the downsides to swapping out? Weight and rotating mass, anything else? Should it bolt up?

I'm preparing to check and repair my KDP. I down loaded directions from Geno's Garage. One question Geno's directions did not address was the removal of the Harmonic Balancer and Crank shaft pulley. I believe they are both Keyed and only go on one way. My question is "Do I need a gear puller" to remove them. Information will be appreciated, Thank you.

I know this might not be a leak most encounter, but when I rebuilt my engine, I used a little RTV on the o ring for the cam plug in the back of the block, did good for 120K or so, then I added Lucas oil supplement, WOW at start up had near 100psi oil pressure, started leaking like a sieve, any way this time no RTV on O ring but I did use Permatex sleeve retainer # 64000/ and the Surface prep/activator # 24163. Hoping it will last me more than 16 mo's.

I can't imagine this is a common problem but I thought I would share my story. I developed a driveline vibration at cruising speed so on my first day off I pulled it in the garage and sure enough the U joint by the rear axle was bad. When I checked the other joint and it was fine, but I happened to push up on the driveshaft and when I did the whole transfer case moved up and down with it! Upon further inspection two studs that hold the t-case to the trans were gone and all but one were backed way out. Also because the one stud was tight the t-case pivoted off of it and put a pretty good crack in my trans tailhousing. It's not leaking and I got everything tightened up with…

Is there a wiring extension that can be bought that will allow me to install my code reader plug to my dash for easy access?