2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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Like title says, I have about 4-5 psi at idle and 0 at WOT. I used a gauge that I connected at the VP44. Does this mean new lift pump? Injection pump?
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Starting this for a discussion as well as for FYI for those interested Discussion thead here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/344262-mighty-diesel-cylender-head-bolts-anything-good-bout-em.html product here http://www.mightydiesel.com/store/index.php?cPath=108 Speculation here Tony from Mighty Diesel is using their Houdini headbolts, (12mm) running about 60PSI boost.. a small S400 running about 575HP on a marine headgasket (.020" over stock thk) and those bolts.. no O-rings. And he's been pulling in the 2.6 class like that for a while. He claimed a customer has run their bolts at 100PSI boost (70PSI…
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Trying to find torque specs for nv4500 to bell housing and bell housing to adapter plate.
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- 7 replies
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- 1 follower
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Has anyone tried a stacked rotary switch similar to the switch on the bottom of pg 3 of the attached link to get everything into one switch with multiple positions for each of the functions/combinations needed to get both the High Idle & MPG Foolers into one pkg? I haven't sat down and sketched it out to see if it's even possible, just thought I'd check before playing it all out. It would require more then one of each resistor but they're cheap and would reduce the wires through the firewall to 4 and just one switch. No idea how many "stacks" the switch would need or number of "load" terminals for all the possible combinations involved but I'll work that out. It is mo…
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Do the cummins brand of t stats have a fail safe?The question is when they go bad are they made to brake in the open position? My engine gets hot 190.The t stat housing is hot. The radiator fluid is cold.I am thinking water pump. The radiator and heater core were flushed in summer.
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I hope you guys will be able to help me out because I'm at a complete loss. So i have 2002 dodge 2500 with 174k and it has a rough idle when the motor is at operating temp. The truck idles just fine when it is cold, only when it is hot does it start idling like s**t. It almost sounds like it is missing, but I don't think it has a miss, I don't know what else there is to replace on this thing, everything is all new. This is a daily driven truck, it does not have a programmer on it, just 100HP injectors, 60/67/12 FPI turbo, 4in exhaust, BHAF, gauges. Here is a list of everything that have been done to the truck in the last 3k miles and it has not solved the problem. …
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- 36 replies
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- 2 followers
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Guys I’m pretty sure this topic has come up so sorry if the question is redundant. 2000 Cummins was starting fine and also idleing fine, but if I gave it and throttle the engine would shake. Tried checking the pressure on the lift pump, 0, none at all. Figured it was a bad lp so I dropped the tank and swapped it for a new one. I bumped tested the new one and nothing. Now truck will not start. Checked my relay and swapped it out with the horn relay and truck still honks. Please help!!!
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Hi guys, I understand this topic has been beat to death but I have had the following issues with my 98 2500 24v. Over the last two years I have had random codes pop up with no performance problems (low voltage related to apps sensor) had them cleared 2x about a year apart. Did hours of research and the common thread seemed to be a failing apps sensor (no dead pedal up to this point) So i bought a new bell crank assy to have on hand in case. About a week ago it happened dead pedal, when I pulled to the side of the road it went away. So when I got home I replaced the bell crank/apps assy asap. Been driving it for a week without issues yesterday when I was deceler…
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Hi, Installed reman VP44 from DAP, no codes, no problems. But engine now requires excessive cranking to start when hot. It fires right off when hot. Truck has FASS 150 that provides 20psi all day and I've always used a protected isolation relay between ECM and the FP. In preparation for a trip last weekend, and with limited time, I modified my existing isolation relay by adding the NC relay and using the B+ from brown solenoid wire to hold FASS150 at bay during cranking. Moparman has an article on it. No noticeable improvement was seen. I switched to a FASS DDRP-02 I have as spare (circa 13psi) and truck fired right off. Suspect problem is to…
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I have been involved in electronics as a hobby for over 50 years.I am a Amateur Extra Class Ham Radio Operator. Now that said.I have learned one thing. Heat is the enemy of electronics. No way around it. Especially solid state stuff.I wasn't aware of how much electronics are in the vp44, and I don't know how much are in other injector pumps.Today I drove on a trip that was 35 miles one way, and came back. Ok no big trip. I drove at 52 mph, and tested fuel milage, and fuel pressure to my pump. Milage turned out to be about 25 mpg, and fuel pressure was around 12 psi. for the trip.When I came home I made a routine inspection under the hood, and I reached down and touched th…
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Hello, new to the forum To get started here I bought my truck about 6 months ago (99 dodge cummins) first cummins. And everything seemed fine for a couple months then the park break and ABS lights came on, didnt think much of it as for the truck still ran perfectly fine a few weeks later I start getting this problem of idle jumping around and speedometer jumping around while driving and it jumping in and out of overdrive. (im guessing) Then just from driving around like the dumb kid I am (not being very nice to my truck) I lost my transmission, had it rebuilt by RedLine Transmissions in Boise ID. When I got it back the park break and ABS …
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Howdy All, I have a 2wd 01 2500 5.9 with very few modifications. Primarily an Airdog Raptor FRRP a K&N filter and a 5" turbo back exhaust. I normally run 1oz/gal of Walmart 2 stoke oil in my fuel and my truck as been an absolute workhorse and has run super smooth....until this morning. I filled up with fuel yesterday and ran about 65 miles. This morning, I headed out to the hunting property. As I got onto the highway and accelerated, my truck started "stutering" (for lack of a beter term) as the RPM climbed. I pulled off of the highway, and put the truck in neutral. With the truck in neutral, I slowly reved the motor up to 4500 RPM and it went up nice and sm…
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After testing and conferring the consensus is my truck needs a new torque convertor. The truck is used 95% of the time towing a 8,000+ pound 5th wheel and the transmission is basically stock. Which brand is good and which type, stock or billet? Should it be a single or triple disk? High or low stall speed? Any thing else you can think of.
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No, I don't have a write up for this but I will post the PDF document for the service manual. http://www.myholsetturbo.com/manuals/HX30_32_35_38_40_GW.pdf I'll admit it's fairly easy to do. You will need a very good pair of snap ring pliers. Everything else is a standard tools wrench and such. I did run into a snag and created a bind in the shaft. Make sure to put your thrust washer back in. Once I grab the manual and seen the exploded view of the turbo I knew right away what I missed. Sure enough dug into the ashtray I put all the old parts into and there it was. Slipped it on the shaft and it spins good. The 2 end are 12 points the turbine is 19mm 12 p…
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So on my way to work this morning I noticed my pedal was for the most part dead. No acceleration and the engine was "missing" for lack of a better term. Made it to work, truck idled smooth like any other day but if revved a few times it would begin to miss again. Had the OBD scanner in the truck so plugged in and saw the P0216 code. That was the only code present. I know this is the VP death code but before I drop big $$$ on a pump, is there anything else I need to look at? I want to properly diagnose this and not just throw money at it. Can't afford that rout right now. Thanks in advance......
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I know this is a dead horse but i need input from anyone that has experience. My current setup is HX35/ht3b, Edge juice (HOT) WAM, JL Machining 240hp injectors, Haisley head gasket with fire rings, ARP studs, 6 spd, SBC 3600 DD , 3.54 ratio. I think I have enough supporting mods for everything I have but I know the JL's are way to big for towing. I can easily stab 1500 in the back in about 3 seconds when I get on the juice. I have towed with this setup some but really have to be on top of it. I been there and done that and now I just want "usability" so I am fixin to order some new injectors from Jacob(diesel auto power) he seems to have some good prices. I have decide…
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Wondering if more filtration would be a good idea? Completely stock except Airdog fuel pump with… fuel filter is 2 (or3) micron and water I have no clue what spec’s are. I change out filters every 6,000 miles. Filters are whatever Vulcan sends me when I ask for Airdog 100 filters. Fuel line goes from Airdog pump to VP44. Fuel is bought at high volume places and I change my filters and other fluids often. (All except steering fluid I'm pretty lazy on.) If more filtration is suggested, what is a good set up in your opinion? Thanks
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So the truck came with a set of Rickson wheels 19.5" and a set of tires that were less than a year old. I liked the old forged-in-America wheels so I decided ot keep them on the truck. I have never had one of these trucks befoer this one so I have no comparative baseline on how it "should" run and drive. In LA these trucks are like hen's teeth and I have not found anyone near me that knows much abou them at all. My local dodge dealer is a waste of real estate and every time I've gone there they turn up their nose at my old truck and try to sell me a new truck :-) I couldn't even get a radiotor cap from that palce. After studdying this issue of …
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