2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

What is the benefit of a torque converter having a billet front cover or not? Im not questioning the internals of the TC as I understand what bigger/better components within the TC do but I’m just talking about the billet cover itself...

I've been reading that the Cummins engines in our trucks, when idling in cold weather, get buildup in the cylinders from an incomplete fuel burn; causing all kinds of mayhem in the motor. I was curious as to what's different with these engines? I ask this since all the other diesel engines I'm around on a daily basis (pulp truck , skidder, excavator, ect) will run all day long, with lots of idling in that time span, and yet it doesn't seem to bother them any? Looking for some clarification.

Here you go gang... I got done with the manifold gasket job on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 a while back and knew I needed to change coolant. The coolant was like 4 years old being I only drove the truck like 3-4K a year. So why change coolant when the truck just sits. Well here is my thermostat housing... As you'll see the housing is starting to rot away from the pH imbalance of the coolant and it attacking the metals.So needless to say I got the cooling system on the 1996 Dodge 1500 flushed out and fresh coolant and tap water back in the radiator. Call me crazy but it works fine...

Just got a renew email invoice for my high idle switch out of the blue. Why? Sorry that I started new thread for simple question.

I'm asked frequently why I consistently "tinker" with my truck even though it's running good, no maintenance issues to address usually, just want to flip the hood and stare in amazement sometimes. But, this time I spotted something while I was installing a BHAF this morning. The lower exhaust manifold bolt on the rear cylinder was backing out! I grabbed the tools and tightened her up and checked the rest. The upper bolt on the rear cylinder was about half a turn loose as well. All the others were fine. Glad I caught that!

My truck has airlocked on me twice in a few months. The first time I didn't know what happened it just shut off while driving and I had to have it towed. The second time I cracked the injector lines and it fixed it. I do remember that each time this happened it was right after I goosed her a bit and let off the throttle. I would like to figure out what is causing it so I don't have to worry about it shutting off in the middle of traffic again.

Hey,Before anyone ask I have a needle valve and a Autometer fuel pressure reducer which is a fitting with a small hole in the middle. That setup has worked fine for several months and was working fine after I installed the VP and injectors for about two months.Recently I noticed the fuel pressure gauge start shaking around and dropping down on pressure, a few PSI at most. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and that seemed to fix it for a few miles (5), but today after I down 2-3 miles down the road it started it again!!!!:thud:I played with the needle valve and it seemed when I closed it down more the shaking settled, however, it is still there and I bet as soon as I tak…

I dropped the fuel tank today to clean up extra hoses and tubes and fix a small leak at the sump. I had no idea I had so much stuff on top of the tank. The end of the straw is probably a match head of inch from bottom of tank. What is your best guess of why a draw straw would be installed one day and next day after installing it says he is going to install a sump? Thanks

My 01 doesnt get used much anymore, I start it about once a month for about 15 min. Used to get very little corrosion peach fuzz on battery cable when used daily. But now being parked lots of build up.

Well I finally got around to cleaning up my RV275 injectors again... I've always had a random misfire problem with them at idle, only when hot. Finally got bad enough that I couldn't deal with it any more. I yanked them out and stuck in my stock injectors. In the mean time, I went out and bought a digital caliper for the tool box. So I figured I would pull them apart and measure the pintle needle, copper washer thickness, and spring shim.Kind of shocked at a few injectors... [TABLE=align: center][TR][TD]Copper Shim (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thick end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Pintle thin end (Inch)[/TD][TD]Spring Shim (Inch)[/TD][/TR][TR][TD]0.0545[/TD][TD]0.1570[/TD][TD]0.1270[/TD][T…

So after reading most of the forums i could find im still haveing the wide open throttle issue. I put a new APPS on it calibrated it started the truck up worked great. But if i turn the truck off and start it back up its wide open throttle again when i touch the gas then back to idle when i let off. But i can unhook the battery cable for 20 minutes or so hook it back up start the truck and it works fine. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

This has been going on for a long time now. My cold starts are perfect no hesitation fires right off. When I start the truck after work in the evening or whatever when it has been warm I fire it up and have a rough idle for like 10 or 12 seconds. Also accompanied by blue smoke. WhT the heck is the deal? Iv been putting up with it for a while but I worked on a 24 valve at the shop the other day that started and ran way smoother than mine.

I have a 99 2500 4x4 with a quadzilla tuner and air dog. Today on my way to work my cruise just stopped working, my air bag light came on and it spitted and stuttered a little. When I went to leave work I bumped the key to engage the pump and no pump and no start. I have always had to wait for the wait to start light to go out before starting and always had a hard start. But this just has me puzzled. Could this be my ECM or is it somewhere else?

Camping / family reunion. I'm at home, not that I could do anything anyway. (MS Sucks) has small enclosed trailer with her... and daughter & 2 grandkids. Phone call I didn't want. Quit in the middle of the road... Had it towed to a diesel shop. No codes with code reader. Turns over. lift pump is running & putting out fuel. Shop closed Sat. open again Monday. Old production Airdog. No FP guage. Spare filters under seat. ?? air leak rubber hoses? Quadzilla XZT+ set to econo 65,000 miles & 14 years on original VP44.

Truck died and will not start. Checked fuel pressure, 10 psi. Decided to change fuel pump to Airdog FRRP-100. Now with Airdog FRRP-100 pressure is at 10 psi (which I believe is low for priming pressure) with Airdog pressure screw all the way increase via screw. Cracked VP44 return line banjo bleed than tried to bleed at 1,3,5 but pressure was low very little flow. What would cause the pressure to be so low? There seems to be air still in the lines and can't seem to get it out- think be cause the pressure is so low. I did change the VP44 out in December & fuel pump (Airtek) ~year ago any suggestions?

I am told by a Dodge mechanic that the control arms will fit. Anybody try this? Does anybody know if the front springs will fit? Perhaps level out the truck without a levelling kit?

Morning All, I finial bit the bullet and picked up a gauge kit (trans, boost and pyro) and other goodies from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ most of its straight forward, but i have a question about drilling the manifold for the pyro, who has drilled and tapped the hole with out removing the turbo? also, is there a standard paint number for matching the gray trim? thanks (truck is a 99 2500 auto)

I have to pull my head, and the hoist I had lined up fell through. I can either a new or used 1 ton HF hoist, and am wondering if it will reach our motors. I'm only using it to pull the head, as it's just me, and there are no handy trees around me to help.

1999 dodge cummins, 5 speed, 4x4, duelly.The truck died going down the highway and will not start back. Truck has 210,000 milesno codesreplaced IAT sensorreplaced MAP sensorreplaced lift pumpreplaced filterreplaced vp44removed edge programmerwill start but not run on starting fluidbatteries goodgrounds cleanThe truck turns over but gets no fuel, lights work, dash works, intake heater worksIs it possible the cummins ecm died and if so can it be tested?

Truck will not start. Turn the ignition switch and nothing. Have power to everything else. New starter, batteries, no codes checked fuses, changed starter relay in PDC. Happened last week and had the starter retested and put it back in and it started right up! I have gremlins. Looking for suggestions. Thanks!