2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need some help! I just installed 7x.011 DFI injectors, I currently have a quadzilla with custom tunes as well. After I installed the injectors I’m getting a surging only when I press the clutch in to come bring the truck to a stop. Idles just fine no issues, no white smoke no ungodly knocking sounds. Idk what the issue is. I reset the apps after injector install since I unplugged it to install them. This surge happened with and Edge EZ as well. Can anyone help me narrow down the issue? Also no CEL codes. I should add this is 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 has approx. 181k miles.

So my vp44 is going bad. I am having dead pedal issues and its having idle problems and occasional white smoke at start up. History 98 dodge 24 valve replaced the vp 48 months ago at 180k miles, now has 198k miles. It had no start issues after getting warm and would start after pouring 5 gallons of cold water on it . I did the first replacement myself but could never get the truck to start and run so loaded the truck and took it to the shop and they replaced the vp44 with another one and it ran. The rebuilder diagnosed the first build as bad and paid the shop bill to replace it. That gets us to the present. The truck has following upgrades DP fuel lift pump in s…

Anyone installed Larry B's grid heater relay? Have to buy new one because old one got stuck and almost burned my truck!

Will the engine wiring harness from a 01' 3500 2wd manual transmission work on a 01' 3500 2wd automatic transmission. If so is there any modifications that need to be made. Thanks in advance

I have the pedal issue. It will go a mile or two and lose the pedal. I can turn on off the key and it runs great. I checked for continuity of the wires and they were good. Low voltage less than 2 volts at the apps. It has a new apps sensor and the Ecm was checked out and was good and the Pcm was rebuilt 50 miles ago. Along with a new vp44. I am checking grounds but I am at a loss. Any ideas?

Please help. At my wits end. I have a 2001 Dodge the problem is, after driving two hours on the highway if I come to a stop after driving this length of time and then accelerate again the truck will die I don’t lose my prime at the injector pump , I do lose pressure. but my pressure takes some time to rebuild and then it will start. I’ve pulled my tank draw straw no obstruction. I have a raptor 100 lift pump. After I restart the truck it runs fine. Starts fine when hot. Seems like it’s starved for fuel. If I bump the starter after it dies the pump will rebuild pressure and the truck will start. Any ideas ?

Ok I tryed searching and not good at it at all. Ive done it several times and cant remember. How do you remove the cross member to drop the trans?

Hey all! So I thought I had this w-t ground mod in the bag, haven't been driving it much but today I decided to drive it because I'm working on the Buick. So now I can't get two blocks without popping 150 amp breaker. Like I said I haven't been driving much really but the only thing that's changed since I did the mod a couple weeks ago is I just recently installed quadzilla, not sure if it's got anything to do with it? I thought of just unplugging quad, but will it even run right?? Plus having quad installed doesn't make sense why the breaker is popping anyhow. Any advice? I thought I read somewhere were someone was having a similar issue…

Curious if anyone running a sump vs a straw system has seen a drop in their fuel pressure after install. I have FASS 165G that would always see 16-18 psi no matter how hard I step on the skinny pedal. I just installed a sump into my 54 gallon metal tank and now my pressure sits at 14 and dips to 12 at times. Currently one fuel press sensor ~1 foot before the VP, and the Quad FP sensor is in the FASS pump, both reading within 1 psi of each other.

I have a 2001 3500 4x4 what would the proper fluids and sealing materials for the transfer case and differentials?

How exactly does the quadzilla adrenaline read boost and what should my boost be? The app on my phones reading like 19 max. I’m not hearing any boost leaks though.

Hey guys, Last night I headed home from a buddies house and the turbo (hx35) started making noise whenever I got above 15ish psi. It wasn’t gradual, truck was perfect when I got out and made noise when I got back in. I’ve never heard an exhaust leak on a Cummins or any turbo vehicle but it’s almost like the turbo itself is leaking. At first I thought it was something hitting the turbine or compressor at low rpm but when you get the boost up it sounds more like a leak. Looking around I see no soot on anything under the hood. However, I’m still able to build 36psi which is the max I could before. No extra lag or smoke, no loss in performance that I’d expect from a leak. T…

Another project I've been working on. Last week running the Cummins it would come to a idle and lightly misfire for a very randomly. Out of respect for Eric at Vulcan Performance I didn't want to post this till I found a solution or it was resolved. But I pull them all the injectors out, inspected them and didn't see any thing wrong with them so I assembled them back into the head. Still had the misfire with a warm engine. So I pull them back out and contacted Eric and sent them in to be inspected by him. As far as what I was told by Eric there was nothing wrong with the injectors and popped tested fine. So I got them back today and made sure to clean all the tips of the …

Hey fellas back again with a question for yas seems how this seems to be the only place to get any 24v info but The issue that I am having is this weekend at the dunes i was driving around and had bad terminals truck wouldnt start monkeyed with them long story short forgot to tighten nut that i had 12v power going to quadzilla. drove fine and then i shut it off... when i tried to start truck first thing the key was backwards all lights on dash lit when key was off and got a constant noise from fuel system relay when turned on nothing i unpluged tuner from fuse block in cab(engine fuse 9) and just plugged normal fuse in and all was normal just wouldnt roll over after plugg…

Need an ECM repaired. I looked at Pepsi's Chart. Think I will pass on Auto Computer Specialist. So moving down the list, has anyone dealt with dieselsystemservices? If so, I'd like to hear about it. Thanks. Leaky

Can someone tell me what the functions of the PCM are for a 2001 Ram 2500 4x4 automatic? I recently had the transmission rebuilt and the ECM replaced but the transmission seems to be slipping at 75-85 mph. I was told by the guy that replaced the ECM and programmed it that it’s a PCM issue but when I called trying to find someone to replace or repair my PCM they are telling me it is an ECM issue. All of my gauges seem to be working fine but my heated seat buttons on the dash light up when I crank the truck and they will flash for a while and then the hi light on the drivers side stays on all the time. The heated seats haven’t worked in a couple of years. The only issue tha…

Hello, So I went to run an errand with my 01 earlier after washing it and it fell on its face while driving down my street. Had a random speed sensor code that I cleared, but it wouldn't shut off even with the key pulled. I'm assuming it's the VP but I'm trying to find different opinions on the matter. I let it sit for 30 minutes and started it back up no problem. Everything came back to life. Turned it off again and re started it 20 minutes later and everything is fine. The pump is barely 2 years old and I'm reading 15 psi on my FASS. Any help would be appreciated.

Currently I have a stock 47re trans as far as my knowledge ( Previous owner had it rebuild but no records of the work done). End goal is to take the truck to 300 - 350hp and cap it. I want to build a reliable towing trans out of what I have and eventually look at a GearVendor gear splitter if I ever get around to it. As it stands now though, its a completely stock motor and trans combo that all works like it should but I want to try to get ahead of the ball on doing the preventative maintenance on it. I'd like to know what I will have to get swapped out and recommendations on what to get. I'd rather overkill the trans than it give out on my 1000+ mile road trips with the …

I have a homemade compound setup that has supply lines but does not have return lines as of yet. I was planning on using another oil drain of some sort. Either factory or aftermarket that pops into rear freeze plug port. But, what size is the hose for the factory turbo drain? I’m asking cause I don’t have any extra return hose laying around to measure “ID” So I can just order a bulk piece and cut to length. 5/8, 3/4, 7/8?

I installed a fass 100gph a few months ago and its been putting a steady 19 psi at idle and 17 at wot, and for the longest time now ive wanted to remove my stock fuel filter housing and lift pump. So i got to removing the housing and that all went well as did removing the stock lift pump. I left the bracket in plate to support the ecm wires, but i was just wondering what i do with the WIF and Fuel heater wiring. Can i just leave them unplugged without touching anything else (and tape them up) or is there a fuse or something i need to remove so i dont light the truck on fire because of the unplugged fuel heater plug? Please help, need to know asap ?