2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Started gathering parts for the swap today[ATTACH]5573[/ATTACH][ATTACH]5574[/ATTACH]

I just found out about the "53 block" and I have one. Does anyone know what the odds are that it will crack? It has 180,000 miles now and the person who had it before me used it to pull fifth wheel and goose neck trailers. It seems to have been well taken care of and is still fine. Should I be worried?

Good morning everyone, I have a question regarding my 99 with a 47re. I decided to do some investigating because the truck developed a noise. I found that my torque converter to flexplate bolts were loose. I was able to get a half turn when retightening. So I have a few questions, any help or info you could share would be great. First, are these bolts TTY? Second, if they are not TTY, should I remove them, use locktite, and reinstall? And last, would you happen to know the torque spec on those bolts? Thank you guys for reading and for your time. This site has been a life saver many times. Brandon

Where is the low power? I've been pondering this. Turbo upgrade? Diff gears? ECM mod? You get to a point when all forms and info get so jumbled you forgot what you are looking for. I don't tow much, some, but not much. I want that tire burning diesel action when I feel the need to use it. I can get about 35 lbs of boost with my setup, which is good, egts climb to the 1500s at Wot( rarely at Wot) . Little worried about that. From what I read my Hx35w (54/60/12) is a good turbo, but a 60/60/12 or 62/68/12 would spool faster. But would that rip the tires loose? If so what is the right turbo internal …

I am going to dump my Superchip with the thought of buying a new one. I want something I can use on the fly. What recommendations do you have????

Ok - so had tranny TC + VB replaced.Just had the evap/heater core replaced.Picked up the truck and I hear a funny sound - hard to describe - like a very low/dull whir/thud that "appears" to match engine rpm - making me think drivelineInitial thought was TC bolts - so I looked at them and they seemed tight with no play.If I had to say as a "guess" it sounds more like its coming from the block itself. Hard to say. Its very low compared to fan/engine and like a low whirring/thud sound as engine shaft spins.Could it be valves or something - I know we tightened my valves a few months back and no issues and not much play to begin with ?? Any other thoughts ??No codes ........ I…

New to the community today! Excited to meet you all, been lurking for a while. This may end up being a bit long winded, I figure the more info the better for opinions. Truck Is a 1999 24V 2500 ex cab automatic190,000+ miles (owned since 111,000) I had transmission flushed and filter changed early on. Some point a couple years in i started to get some transmission "hunting?" on hills in higher gear range with low throttle 45mph-ish (thinking in and out of overdrive?) Anyway, I had resolved this issue it seamed by moving the large ground wire away from the alternator to the top the radiator.. This worked for me for a few years. This makes me believe I must have the AC …

Can anyone think of a reason why I shouldn’t move my ecm to inside the cab or the firewall? My engine harness is out of the truck getting improvements and I have a second wiring harness that I was using to help diagnose my ecm issue. I realized I could use the second harness to extend the length of my current one. There is room on the firewall under the brake master cylinder or in the cab under passenger dash. Only alterations besides splicing I can think of is I would have to make more twisted pairs of the water in fuel(not used) and oil pressure sensor wires since they are the shortest and exit right by ecm. There are also 2 shielded pairs (vp44 and Cummins bus). The Cu…

So I've bought a set of sac 7x.011 dap nozzles 7 months ago, had them sent to local injector shop, right off the bat they said they look cheaper(they are by a bit), and the spray angle is wider. Dap claims there 225 hp injectors. They seem to not be much better than the 120s from ii I had on before, maybe got a little more power, a nasty haze at idle and white cruising. On top of that comes out more white ish black than just black on take off. That being said I'm interested in the weston 6x.013s and wanted to see how good they are and if they are as dirty. Let me know what ya think. Thanks

Hello, I'm certain many have changed out the Draw Straw to 1/2" but I don't seem to be finding discussion on it. Could someone please direct me to a discussion or documentation on doing it? Thanks. Leaky

got a pretty good leak going on, apperantly at the return tee at the back of the block. i have gone under the truck while the engine is idling but cannot see it leaking. it is however soaking wet. the fuel is coming down and hitting the front drive shaft and is being slung all over the place. when i park i leave a small puddle of diesel and can smell it pretty good. since i cannot see it leaking i am assuming the engine needs to be under load for it to leak.anyway its going to be a pita to work on. so anything yall know to make it easier would be appreciated. i am going to buy a new tee and replace it while i am back there. is there anything else that ususally fails in th…

Made a quick trip to the store and on the way back while slowing to make a right hander the Cummins Died . I coasted to the curb. Could'nt see anything wrong. drain a little fuel for Airdog 150 at water filter too see whats up there, looked ok. WALKED a block and a half to get tools, (I Know:lmao:). Remove Fuel PSI sender and add another gauge and was reading 17 before cranking, just the bump of the started so there is psi to injector pump. Then I called Tow Truck:banghead:. Too heavy for me to push that far. After I got home started reading about this, Ck code and found nothing. Now I ask should i ck the keyway at pump or what next? Any advise would be very helpful.--- U…

Announcement: I will start producing a combination high idle/3 cyl high idle/MPG fooler box in a quality manner. This will not be a 1 time thing. I am going to order in bulk & produce probably 25 at a time. All plug & play with a small durable weatherproof connector to go through the firewall. ECT & IAT wiring will be OEM style plugs so that you do not have to cut & splice the harness. It'll be similar to the MAP sensor harness on a tuner or boost fooler:Unplug connector from sensor, plug in HI/MPG plug to sensor & plug in HI/MPG plug to truck's harness.I am trying to work with a well known diesel performance distributor, so that it will always be…

Wondering if I should filter more. Right now fuel line goes from tank to airdog 95 (or 100?) Filters then to vp44. If I need more or better what would you recommend? Thanks

well guys iv got a 99 dodge 3500 4x4 and between 40 and 50 and sometimes at 55 to 60 it seems like it is coming in and out of lock-up sometimes it will jump rpms once or it may do it 5 times in a row before it desides to stay locked in. what could be the problem and how can i fix it please it gets on my nerves lol

Yup, Friday the 13th and a full moon has struck me... Got the transmission and clutch done went out for a short test drive and came back check for leaks or issues. Sure enough the driver side tank blew out started leaking just above the drain cock. Redneck fix. I cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap. This will allow the pressure to escape the radiator and not build pressure. I made 84 mile test drive and no issues. I've got a replace radiator in Ontario, OR waiting for me. $282 dollars for a replacement radiator. Oh well... Radiator lasted 392k miles and header tank seal failed.

Ok guys. I know this one has been hit before but I am having a hard time finding the old threads on it. My question is this. What fluid should I use? Is a new gasket required when putting the cover back on? Do I need any additive do go with the fluid? I dont believe I have limited slip. One tire will spin freely on slick surfaces anyway. This is on my 01 ram 2500. Dana 80 rear end with 3.55's. Thanks for any tips!!

Hey Guys, So my old group 27 batteries finally took a dump. I left the radio on in my truck for about 2 hours while I was loading up scrap, and it was enough that after starting the truck the batteries were just beyond this. Anyways, I did some quick looking and decided to upgrade to the famed Group31's. And the results are nothing less then amazing. So not only did the truck start up super fast, but even with the grids banging away the battery voltage went from 14.0 to 12.8V with the grids going off, and you don't even hear the change in the engine or the whine of the alternator, unlike with my old group27's Anyways here is how you do …

well this morning my check engine light came on so i cycled the key and came up with the P0122 and P01693 i know the 0122 code has to do with the TPS which would make sense as i was bugging moparman last night trying to trouble shoot my exhaust brake not working and started digging into the APPSi guess i could start by clearing the code and seeing if it comes back..correct? it may have thrown it when i was digging in the apps? or maybe i screwed something upalso.. mopar i forgot to mention maybe like 8 months ago i did have a dead pedal issue but i think it was a bad connection on my edge plug where it ties into the map sensor with the Y.this same time is also when it fir…

Anyone have any opinions on what to use and how to go about this process? Thanks.