2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Hi all, So I'm getting ready to do an oil change and I realized that I'm paying almost as much for Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40, which is full synthetic(not sure if it's group 3 or 4 though) as I would be for some of the Amsoil products which I know are group 4 base stocks. So I'm looking into switching to Amsoil. I'd like opinions on which version to use and if I should get a bypass filtration kit while I'm at it. I know they have several different diesel oils and I don't know which one I should use. I originally went with the Valvoline PBX because I wanted the 5w-40 and full synth for the cold temps up here. I can definitely hear when the oil gets to the mo…

First let me say Hello to everyone. My name is Jeremiah. I own an 02 that i bought new. currently has 168k. I still love the truck but it has me very frustrated lately and I need some advice. This is going to get long winded but im going to do my best to describe whats going on. It has a Banks big hoss tuner thats 70hp and some 65hp injectors. fairly mild set up and im very happy with how it performs. several years ago I had torque converter problems. it shuttered in lock up, and you could power through the clutch while it was locked. the more you loaded the engine ( such as in 4x4, or pulling a trailer) the worse the shaking got. i limped it along until it go…

I have seen it before some where but cant find it anywhere... HA Short and sweet: Where can I get a shim or make one to increase my psi on my fass 200 titanium. Heard of guys shimming with washers, but id like to move from a consistent 14-15 psi to 20 psi for my bigger IP...

Not sure if I'm going to go quad or Edge but if ones comes up for sale used is it a gamble how much life is left in them? Thanks

My 2001 truck is currently in "temp storage" on my side yard. I've been starting it once a month for last couple years. During the month it sits, the OEM alarm is on and what ever else slowly drains the batteries. Last month I pumped out 2 year old fuel and put in new fuel with a shot of biocide. Thinking I should disconnect batteries or install a battery disconnect. Maybe I could just pull a fuse to stop batteries from draining. If pulling a fuse is good idea which fuse or fuses should I pull? Any other things I might consider?

Hey guys, I've been looking for these wheels, hard to find. 7 slot holes, and slightly different offset from the pre-2000 2nd gens. I occasionally come across them on craigslist & ebay etc, but they are few and far between since they were only made for the 2000 - 2002 model year 3500 duallys. But alas I do find them! My question has to do with the factory coating. Does anyone know if the original factory coating for these 2000-2002 wheels was paint? or powder coat? Thanks!

truck 018.MOV truck 018.MOV 2002 6SPD ....pulling on highway truck died ....restarted after about 20 minutes but would only pull about 1300 rpm at most -idles great but if I don't start it everyday I have to bleed the lines to get er going....wont rev past 1300 at best ,just stutters and white smoke ???...seems like a vp44 death

So driving home tonight I spend a fair amount of time on a 50mph road. Truck seems to run at about (never realized how goofy our tach markings are) 1800-1900rpm in 5th gear at 50, or drops to around 14-1500 in 6th. Keep in mind I am empty (I know the towing answer) it’s pretty much flat the whole way (definitely use 5th to climb) just curious about the rest of the time. Opinions?

I've been reading up on every topic remotely close to the VP44 and fuel system for the last month. Lost my lift pump and sender unit same time which apparently blew my VP. So...100% stock 2001 6-speed...buy a new VP and decide on a FASS Titanium95. I read all the reviews but frankly the horse trailers and 5th wheels aren't a problem in these desert mountains (digression). Have FSM, did install last weekend of both. Removed old filter canister and bracket (no going back, I shaved the bolts to match the others with no bracket) and removed old pump. Fuel line is just hanging. Taped and sealed each of the three connectors, then taped them together, then zip tied t…

What does the"O" rings on the crossover tubes seal? Do they seal oil or fuel?

I was having an intermittent problem where the truck ran great for the first 15 min then after that I was having problems. It was acting like it wont spool up, ill hit the pedal and it will be around 10 psi of boost and will just sit maintaining speed for awhile until the RPM's hit around 2k where the turbo lights then takes off. Tried resetting my APPS. I have no codes on my scanner or check engine light. I have about 17psi fuel pressure and doesn't drop much at wot maybe to 15psi. I had a boost leak and fixed it then the truck ran perfectly for about 4 days. I was still skeptical if that was it and unfortunately i was right. The last two days it has ca…

So yesterday I pulled a trailer weighing approximately 6k-7k pounds that had most of my tools and some household junk in it. I decided to put the truck back to stock programming since I don't have a pyrometer installed. After flashing the ECM back to stock just for grins I checked for fault codes and have a p1488. I reflashed the ECM and still have the P1488 that won't clear. The truck runs fine and doesn't have a CEL so I'm sure it'll be an easy fix. I haven't dug into it but I suspect I'm going to find a bad MAP or CMP sensor or possibly bad wiring.

I do my best to try and figure what I can without asking others for help but I'm stumped on this one, trucks been starting fine, went to the store, came back truck wont start, figured just a starter, a few years old. Replaced it, still no start. Started chasing wires power to the starter but nothing to solenoid 5v wire with key cycled to the start position. Pulled the relay. I have no constant power to pin 30. Dont know if there should or shouldn't be, all the other relays have power on 30. If I jump power from pin 86 to 87 and crank the key it fires right up, the list of things I have tried goes as followed. Jumped the clutch pedal safety switch. Checked every last fuse …

Okay, so I have been wondering if my sensors were any good. So, I only managed to pull my IAT sensor and it only looked a little dirty. Nothing like what mike has in his pictures.I was gonna use a DMM to measure the ohms according to the temp. and I could not even get a reading from it. I checked the DMM and the DMM is fine. Is the IAT sensor bad?I did not have a socket to pull the MAP sensor. I need to go buy one but I'm confused about the size. Its definitely not 1 1/16".So I called o'reilly's and they quoted me $30 for the IAT sensor and $114 for the MAP sensor!Anyone also know if I can get these for cheaper? Would either one of them cause my mpg's to fall as well??

Hey guys I have a 99 Ram 1500 with a 98 24V and 47RE. I did not perform all the swap. Problem is trans wants to start out in 2nd? gear in D. Sometimes you get first manually. It has 3rd. OD?. A lot of info pointed me to the governor solenoid and transducer. I changed them, still the same. I was told ecm was swapped and repinned. Where can I find some solid info on diag procedures? I've looked into a full manual valve body ,800$, and tried finding a standalone controller,1400$! Looking for advice. Thank you

Good evening, I have a 1999 Dodge 24v and am looking at replacing the fuel return system. Has anyone made their own return system? If so, do you have a list of parts used? I may just buy stock parts, but would like other opinions. I am looking at replacing the line at the back of the head, line from vp and the t fitting. The return line going to the tank is in good condition and does not need replacing. The other lines are rusting and starting to leak. Thanks, Tim

Hello All, Sorry for the story, but I am confused. After reading all the articles on here with AC Noise Issues/Excessive alternator load, I began disconnecting my grid heaters (at the battery) during the warmer months (40F+). Over the holidays, I took a trip to the mountains for some time in the snow so I hooked back up the grids and first start up the check engine light kicked on. The engine was idling fine, but i noticed the voltage gauge took a long time to recover from the initial grid usage and every trigger (2 times) before I took it down the road to just check things out. At the gas station (5 miles away), I scanned the truck…

I just replaced the vp44 injection pump and lift pump, now it stalls when pushing in the clutch when coming to a stop. Rpm will bounce around sometimes you can keep it from stalling by giving it fuel and pushing the clutch in. It never did this before, I had a p0252 code is the reason I changed out the the vp44. The new lift pump is a OEM. Vp44 is a remanufactured.

Yesterday I was trying to pull my loaded trailer out of a snow covered driveway. I spun the tires in 2wd so I moved the transfer case shift lever from 2H to 4H but the front wheels did not spin on the snow while the rears were spinning. I shifted to 4L and same thing. I have no knowledge on these truck as far as the 4wd system. Any thoughts or hints on what might have happened and how I should proceed from here?

Hi, I bought this truck about 3 months ago. It came with no keys (no its not stolen, guess buddy lost them) so he put in a master switch and a push button. Master switch turns truck on, push button starts the truck. A few weeks back I took out my remote start because it was in my way and I didn't have the use for It with the lack of keys anyway. Nothing changed with the truck I still used the switch and button just fine. 3 days ago, I was frustrated with the wires from the remote start hanging out so when I got home I took only the wires that were connected to nothing out. Now my truck won't turn over and I've pulled out the wiring harness on the …