2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have been reading your articles and have a question about the Electric Fuel Gauge article. I am taking my tap point from the top of the existing fuel canister with a needle valve. I have a mechanical gauge now, but I am going to replace it with the ISSPRO EV2. Is this far enough from the VP44 or should I go a little further away before putting the sender in? I also have a question about the W-T ground wire mod - simplified version. In the article next to the last picture there is a connection in the ground wire about 3 inches to the right of your hand. Is this the fusible link that you talk about at the end of your article? I did my ground mod using W-T…

Went to change the oil sensor, ordered the switch from genos after confirming I had the right part number. Went to install today and behold, my truck fights to be different yet again. So now the question is, does anyone know what year sensor this is? I believe the truck is late 02 before the change to 3rd gen trucks, but I haven't been to the parts store yet to look at a sensor they have on the shelf. Part number for the 98.5-02 trucks is 4326849 and a complete different plug. Also, sorry about all the oil need to change the cover gasket on that side.

I have noticed recently that sometimes upon cold start my truck will idle at 900rpms instead of the usual 825 rpms. Iv also noticed that when accelerating I can seemingly feel dead spots in the pedal at times. Could my apps be going out? I can rev the truck and it will still idle high but when put in gear and driven and stopped it’s back to 825. Thoughts? Also I had a P0336 come up and replaced the crankshaft sensor with a Napa part and code went away along with the symptoms so that’s out of question.

Bought my truck in September 2018. 2002 3500. Winter came and all I could get out of my dash vents on position 2 was 80°f. Position 3 was 75°f. Position 4 would blow cold air. Installed grill blanket, no change. Installed 190 NAPA thermostat, temp guage now runs slightly higher and more consistent but no change in vent heat temp. Installed heater treater, no change. Flushed heater core with hose, temp now at 110°f on fan setting 2 and 95°f on fan setting three. Guess I have a heater core replacement in my future. Watched Mopar mans vid and I'm going to wait till summer to do it because I have to work outside in my driveway....... Can't wait!!!!! …

Hey guys, I always start hear first when I'm researching something on my 99 Cummins. This is my first post, forgive me if I am not posting in right area. My problem is my batteries die after about 3 days of sitting. Notice my seatbelt light is now on, my radio wont go off with the key, my alarm will not peep when I hit the lock button on the key chain and sometime my wipers and windows stay on when key is off? Please help thanks in advance Ryan

I just installed a brand new PCM from flagship one that they programmed to the VIN of my 99 Dodge Cummins auto trans pickup. At the same time I installed a used 99 Cummins ECM that I got from a friend, but he couldn't remember if that pickup was a manual or auto trans pickup. There are no codes nor CEL coming up, but at idle when I put it into gear now, it sounds like the motor has a lopey cam in it. If I put it into park or neutral, it idles smooth, and it runs smooth down the road. Now my pickup will display the WTS as soon as the key is turned on, and I don't have to wait for the WTS light to come on each and every time to get the engine to fir…

WTS Lamp will not come on. Truck still starts. Manifold heaters do not come on. Has a hard time starting in the cold without block heater(start up) Runs good. I usually wait for instrument light to turn off before starting.... WTS LIGHT has not been working for 5 months. Any ideas appreciated... I let it sit for two weeks. Batteries went dead. Tried to start and the lift pump stayed on. Charge the batteries and that problem stopped.

I’m considering messing with my injector pop off pressures. Iv heard of people having good results with 320 bar with the 75HP sticks. Basically I want the optimal pop pressure for my truck that is not running any tuning just the larger injectors. Part of the reason I’m pulling them is to make sure I have them installed correctly and all washers, o rings, etc are properly installed. Anyways what’s the verdict on pop pressures?

Who are you guys using? Lost 4wd amongst my electrical issues lol. I think I have a broken shift fork, but at 240k it's time to take a look anyway.

Maybe a numb question but I can figure it out. Fuse box in the engine bay, 140 amp alternator fuse, there is a positive and negative lead coming from the batteries. Why am I not getting a good ground there? Would be a nice clean place but I can’t get a good ground!! Can anyone enlighten me

My truck is a daily driver and I tow a 30' camper and various equipment on my 10k trailer several times a month. I would like to install an engine brake. Looks like Banks, Jacobs, Pacbrake, and BD are the primary options. I have also read that some turbo setups offer some braking ability. I would like to tune and setup for better low end power and towing. I would like better spooling down low also, so a different turbo may be in the works. My exhaust off the turbo looks like it necks to 3" out of the turbo housing and then up to 4", would like to make that one size if possible. So what would you all recommend? I searched this forum and others and most replies …

I am thinking about adding an Eaton True Trac to my Dana 80 rear axle with 3.54's. I have gotten by with open differentials for almost 17 years on this truck but have gotten stuck bad only once. I have noticed on MANY occasions that my truck has almost ZERO traction on level ground on grass and inspite of my best efforts NOT to spine a tire almost always do. Yesterday while checking on a forestry unit I had to drive up a very steep access road which was little more than a smoothed up logging road. I made it to the top but I could feel the tires slipping here and there while in 4WD. Has anyone here had an Eaton or similar True Trac differential installed in their truc…

100hp dap injectors @30 psi boost on stock head bolts kinda wondering what’s a “safe” point for as max timing and fuel

Finally put a Bhaf on the truck, but now with straight pipe 4” (outlet currently under the truck, no tip), no silencer ring (does the ring create any congestion?) and a bhaf, it is just getting too loud. Contemplating whether I need just a muffler, just a resonator, a combo resonator/turbo (Jones/aeroturbine) or a separate resonator (under the cab) and a big muffler further back. thoughts/experience?

Ever since I got the truck 3 years ago it’s always had a bad rumble while 4x4 was engaged. It hasn’t effected any performance of the 4x4 but it just doesn’t sound good. I believe it’s the double cardan in the front shaft but I’m unsure. It doesn’t seem to have a lot of play but I plan on removing the front shaft this weekend to see if the rumble goes away with 4x4 engaged to see if it’s the t-case or the shaft. I’ve heard that the from double cardan is a bear to replace but I’d much rather do it myself than spend $300 on a new shaft. Any tips to replacing this joint? I plan on doing all spicer joints so I hopefully won’t have to do this again for a while.

Ok, so as my title states, my truck never came with a lift pump. I only have a FASS titanium fuel pump, and huge lines running straight to the vp44. Would it help anything by putting in a stock lift pump later? Or can I just keep my current setup? Lately it's been loping kind of funny now and then. I'm terrified my vp is getting ready to **** the bed. I'm heading to Williston ND tomorrow to start work Monday, but that's easily a 16hr drive for me, if not longer. After Gillette WY there's alot of empty roads and no service.... Im going to change the fuel filter and water separator just to be safe before I go. The truck has made it from Casper Wyoming to Dickinson Nd, …

Maybe a silly question but I'm curious if anyone can explain to me why my 98 24v is much quieter at cold startup than when its warm? Theres barely any fuel knock at all and its really smooth sounding. Once it warms up and during the warmer months it just sounds like most other 24v. I run 2 stroke oil in my fuel. It would be great if I could figure out how to make it sound so smooth all the time.

99 ram 2500. torque converter locking & unlocking constantly only when i have my lights on. As long as lights are off everything works fine. Any advice on where to start looking would be greatly appreciated.

My truck is hard to start after sitting even for a short time. I have replaced the washers on the banjo fitting back of the head, the seals on the T fitting, and the fuel line to the tank. I just pressurized the tank with air there are no leaks I can find anywhere. It has new injectors and new crossover tube O rings.still has the same problem. No fuel in the oil. Any suggestions from the experts?

As title states, my tcase went crunch on the way to North Dakota for my new job. I'm assuming the way it locked up the innards are toast. I had to disconnect both drive shafts to move it. As of now, the truck is going to be put into hibernation until I figure out what's going to happen next. That depends on whether or not I can get a decent case for cheap enough. I've also considered adapting it to run an np205, and hopefully not have to worry again. But I really don't want to have to get new yokes and drivelines. What do you all suggest? Who could rebuild it for a reasonable amount? Who sells gears and stuff besides all state? The truck has 4.11s…