2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I put that airdog 150 on my truck, and , one morning it would not start, zero fuel pressure from the gauge. After troubleshooting the obvious suspects, I took a rubber mallet and started tapping on the air dog pump itself. The air dog came to life and the truck started as normal and ran great the rest of the day. Next few days same thing, I always had to take rubber mallet while somebody else was turning over the truck and it would finally start. So I called air dong and told him I have a bad pump, and they said take the gears out the side and soak them in motor all overnight. I have not done that yet? Is it a waste of time or has anyone else had this problem before?

Have a 2001 dodge nv4500 I’m having issues once the gauge starts to move and truck warms up I’m having a cuttting out issue around 18-2200 rpm it’ll cut out like it’s banging off the rev limiter have some whiteish blue smoke and you can floor it and it goes away. Ive replaced the. Injection pump,lift pump with a air dog 150, injectors, turbo, cam sensor. Tpps, map sensor, IAT sensor, coolaint temp sensor, fuel lresure is 18 at idle 14 at WOT. Funny thing is if you drive the truck like a jack *** it doesn’t mess up but if you drive it normal it messes up every time. Ecm???

Hey guys, I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction here. I've helped and been helped a lot on this forum regarding my Ram 2500. I have another question and was wondering if anyone knew of a good place to check. I recently got a 2012 freightliner cascadia with a dd13 12.8 Detroit with an eaton fuller ten speed. The manual says the governer kicks in at 2000 something rpm and mine cuts all power at about 1650 no matter the gear you're in. Twice the other day as I was pulling logs up a hill in 8th it suddenly opened back up while I was bouncing off the governer and cranked right up to 2000 rpm, letting me grab one more. Any ideas why it randomly…

Any of you put the 3rd gen bar on your truck. I have put a couple good 2nd gen ones on and a couple low buck specials on it. They all fail. I have driven this truck 20 k in 6 years. I do have 285 tires on it with M/T aluminum wheels. They are actually a lot lighter than my chrome original ones with the 245s on it. So I am thinking of buying the bracket that bolts to the frame and putting the 3rd gen bar on. I can get the bars for free if the stock ones fit my truck. Thanks for any input, positive or negative. That is how we learn.

The truck is a 98.5 leaks power steering fluid, couple weeks ago had to add more power steering fluid before leaving work loosened the 90° fitting for my fass to the IP above the power steering reservoir. I thought by chance I heard a crack noise when doing so. Drove an hour home truck seemed to be running okay. That night I went hunting and when I went to leave the truck had a hard time starting like it had air in my lines so I figured I just didn’t have the fitting tight. A I also noticed at that time the truck didn’t have the same throttle response etc. I took the 90° fitting off and tightended the banjo to the injection pump before reinstalling 90. Now this is here …

Dang! I'm not catching any breaks these days. Doing my weekend inspection on the truck and noticed my coolant reservoir is down to the add mark just about and then noticed the small drip puddles on the floor. Tracked down the leak to my oil cooler gasket is leaking. Hopefully, that is a fairly straightforward repair for that gasket. Any information on this task would be great.

looking for advice from anyone who has done a cad delete and free spin kit. Who did you go through? EMS is the only place I have found that offers a 32 spline delete kit for the 00-02 Dana 60. What do you do to have 4wd indication (dash light) after delete? Leaning towards Spyntec shorties anyone have first hand experience? I’m going to have the front end apart to replace ball joints and I’m seriously contemplating on cad delete and free spins. Huge chunk of $ I know but I may just do it. Also axle seals hear they’re a real pain? Any advice would be very much appreciated

My trans dip stick pops up a little, I shove it back down and 3 or 4 tanks worth of fuel later the dip stick has poped backed out maybe half inch. Dont know what's causing it, vibration or pressure from venting is pushing it back out. Been doing this for long time. Any ideas what's going on? and if normal is it ok to put something on it to hold down to keep dust out? Do you have this problem? Are other vent holes maybe plugged and creating more venting out of dip stick hole?

Just curious if anyone has experienced this before. I recently installed a Adrenaline with iQuad on my truck. When monitoring the boost reading from the iQuad on my phone it reads about 3psi lower than my other boost gauge. I have a 0-60 Autometer elite, its not a junk gauge and has never been over pressurized since my truck is mostly stock so I would expect it to be accurate. Could this be a conversion thing with how the Iquad produces its boost number or a sign of a failing MAP sensor? Truck runs great no weird issues I have noticed just curious since if it is low all my fueling will be thrown down 3psi levels. Thanks

Hi, I'm a new cummins owner. Finally got mine back in April, and she bit my *** right away by eating the transmission. But now that she's going again, I'm upgrading the ancient edge juice with attitude tuner (circa 2008). I've heard smarty is the best, but also heard quadzilla is the best?

Spotted a 96 3500 quad 12v 4x4 for sale on fleabag over here in Scotland for £6750 has the usual electrical gremlins like windows not working, door locks not working.... biggie is trans not changing right, seller dropped from £7500 on 2nd day of listing due to someone pointing out it will probably need a trans rebuild, don't think it will come up in searches from the USA due to seller not adding international.

Does anyone know if there is a native wire that receives 12v (when the key is turned on) by the rear bumper/trailer connection area? I like to have the option to view my rear view cam at any time but don't want it to be constantly on. I haven't found one so far and thought I'd ask before I run a long wire back there.

Filter or electrical? 74E8D060-977B-4DC8-AB17-0FACB8B9EB23.MOV

Thinking I (want or need) more fuel filtering. Right now no problems with airdog 95 or 100 (cant remember which) going from tank to airdog directly to vp44. 2 or 3 micron I believe. Want to install a 8 or 10 micron before fuel goes thru airdog filter. In late 90's or 2000's at work some of our trucks had water and fuel filter that was plastic see thru, that you could just look at and see fuel drizzle down into plastic bowl or not. Getting a visual on fuel came in handy to see if any fuel problems going on. Like out of fuel, pump not working etc. ( I do have a fuel pressure gauge) never had a problem with cracking or leaking. I'm trying to find a system …

So last week my clutch went out and so I bought a new clutch for the truck (Southbend Single Disk Feramic clutch if anyone is wondering) and I threw everything onto the truck up until reinstallilng the transmission itself. Just got done packing the throwout bearing and input shaft (high temp wheel bearing grease) and I realized the clutch is in the truck and everything already and I don't want to take it out again to get greases in the splines since I was told there needs to be grease in the splines of the input shaft and to use the clutch to spread it in the splines and I assume get some in the splines of the clutch as well. Make sense? I hope it does because my question…

When the truck is cold the oil temperature is fine when it warms up it goes down to 8 psi. When I accelerate it goes up. I have a edge tuner so the gauge is correct.

I’ve changed the cam sensor and the crank sensor but the code keeps coming up, I have also chased down all the grounds and cleaned them along with connectors.. I have 5v to the orange at every connector and or plug I’m at a loss for words right now

Did some searching around and figured I would post my experience here. Alot of people replacing the VPs over this it seems like. I went onto the dealer site and found the diagnostic tree for this code. Nowhere does it say replace the pump. It says either electrical/wiring issue which I understand could be the circuit in the pump, or the ECM. Personally I am assuming my circuit board is fine and I have a problem elsewhere. I live where there is an issue with rat damage. My pump is tapped for the Edge. I had a spare APPS to try. I tried the relay swap that moparman suggests. I cant fully rule out alternator noise but i have the BD kit and keep that ground wire r…

Seeking feedback, ideas, To install an exhaust brake (EB) with a non stardard method to control the EB. How?, leverage some functionality by adding micro switches, relay(s), tapping into the vehicle control modules. This is not the preferred setup and will require the operator or system design to replace the functionality of an electronic control box. Why? I have the brake itself, don’t have the expensive electronics. Thanks in advance, First Post Ever,.. Application: 2002 Dodge Ram 5.9 H.O. Cummins, 6 Speed Manual Trans. i figure a switch and string of micro switches that will turn the eb on/off could be…

A BHAF Muffler - Uhh?? I like the Cummins engine, but I try to do anything I can to make the engine quieter. The BHAF air filter flows lots of air, but it also allows a lot of engine air intake noise to be heard in the cab – more noise than the factory air box and the factory air filter. This inspired the idea to experiment with a BHAF muffler on a big honkin’ air filter – in this case, a NAPA 2790. A BHAF muffler is not for everybody. If you like air intake sounds, turbo sounds, and amplified exhaust brake sounds inside your cab, then this project may not be for you. For my first muffler I used a length of ribbed plastic drain pipe inserted in…