2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

So I left my truck sitting for about a week while I was on vacation. I try to start it up for the first time and it'll crank all day but won't fire. My gauges aren't working, my odo is flashing my mileage, and my lift pump isn't getting any power. What do I need to look into besides checking all the grounds and fuses? Does this sound like a bad ECM/PCM? Thanks for any help. The truck is a 1998.5

I'd like to hear some thoughts on parts i'm going to be ordering soon. My exhaust manifold is cracked and my muffler has a good rattle and I'd like an exhaust brake for towing and to a lesser extent service brake life. Truck is a 1999 24v 5speed longbox. 1) I would prefer the the turbo mount exhaust brake but I may do a small turbo upgrade in the future which from my reading means I'll need to have the remote mount brake. So i'm thinking the BD remote brake. 2) I'm leaning towards this exhaust manifold. Price seems good and I've heard good things. DAP T3 with EGT probe bung and comes with gaskets and hardware. https://dieselautopower.com/diesel-au…

1999 2500, 4X4 auto stock... 147K, inherit from Step Dad. Truck sat for about 4 yrs, monthly starting. steel lines from the top of level sending unit is leaking fuel badly. (i.e. painting line paint in the street bad). I'm wanting to order and put in Drawstraw I from Vulcan. From what I "can" see it def the steel line. Wil the Vulcan handle the fix? Also the $50 question, drop a half tank of fuel or pull the bed...and where are your vids on either choice? Thanxs..

What should I plan on spending for 3rd and 4th gear syncros? I will need to have a trans shop do them as my life currently doesn’t allow me the time.

I finished my fooler the day after x-mas. I managed to find a 3 position on-on-on switch for the fast idle and a project box that fit perfectly in my ashtray. My only screw-up was on the label for the "Normal" on the fast idle side (the L doesn't show). In hindsite I wish I would have gone "Normal" on the bottom, "3 Cyl." in the middle and "6 Cyl." on the top; that way both switches would have been down in the Normal position. Today was the first time I tried, even after I drove the truck to NAPA to get a headlamp for my wife's car, it fast idled with the switches in the "6 Cyl." and "123F" positions. I thought this was a one time shot at start up, but for grins I th…

1998.5 24V It starts fine and quick, runs strong then the fuel pressure will fluctuate and it stalls. It will not restart. I found the fuel overflow valve is getting stuck in the full open. Replaced the fuel overflow valve but it keeps happening. If I push the ball on the overflow valve it will start again.

I believe this is related to my low power and P0237 issues but last evening I went and picked up a new boat 20 miles away. Idk when it started but i started hearing a lot of what sounds like valve chatter. Something tells me it has nothing to do with the valves but that it’s related to a timing issue. I’m also having rough idle symptoms again although a bit different from when I had air in fuel. What I’m thinking is since I have turbo play and all that i may have low boost which flipped the code and is causing low power. I also read somewhere here that low boost will create more timing and make a knocking noise and higher boost will retard timing. This boat I…

@IBMobilethis question is for you. The solenoid you recommended (ss598) is a different style than the one you used. Does this matter? Seemed to work fine when I first installed then me wife took truck out of town and commented on how hard it was to start. Solenoid doesn’t work now. Any ideas? Did I just get the wrong part or...??

I know from looking over the net, and exploring the site this could be many things, but I really need help with this. My 2001 Dodge 2500 starts perfectly when cold. The truck is hard to start AFTER it is brought up to normal operating temperature and attempt to restart after shutdown. It cranks for a bit, finally turns over, and then blows a bit of black smoke and runs perfectly.It does have the relay installed that shuts off power to the VP44 while cranking (this fixed the hard starting I experienced before). I have replaced this relay to make sure that this is not the reason for the problem now. I replaced the lift pump two years ago. It is a FASS DDRP2. I have a dash m…

So I’ve been having this problem with my truck, it randomly started the other day, when the truck warms up at an idle it sounds likes it missing, when I am driving it and hold it at a steady rpm around 1500 it surges and then when you rev it up, or let off the throttle to while it is in gear it takes a while to idle back down. I already tried to clean the injectors and changed the fuel filter and the water separator. Don’t know what else to do. Anybody know what’s going on?

Is there a "best" spot to install a FASS or Airdog pump? Thinking closer to tank because I heard the pumps are better at pushing fuel than pulling. What about cold weather? Any place better than another?

So I get the low battery light otw home, barely make it home with my edge reading 9v. I pull the 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator to check to see if the computer is calling for the alternator to charge. On the hot wire I got 9v,the ground wire I get 40 ohms . Isn't 40 ohms to high for the ground? I figured it should read a lot lower, didn't know if that was why my alternator isn't charging or not.

So I have a cracked #53 block in my truck. I have found a number of sites that claim the crack can be repaired by stiching it. Sounds like a bad idea to me. What do you guys think about this? Maybe if the truck would never be modded. But I plan on making 500-600hp. Are 12 valve and 24 valve blocks compatible in any way? Would a motor out of a 02 work in my 99? Im just trying to save a few bucks. I have a complete 99 engine lined up for $1100. But it will need a rebuild costing me another $4000. I also found a complete engine out of a 02 with only 94,000 miles on it for $3200. I was told some engines have cam and crank sensors. While others only have a crank sensor. Can I…

Well after all the nice things I have done for my truck it died today. It has cut off on me maybe 6 times at idle over the past 3 weeks but always started right back and kept going. I gues she paying me back for ignoring her. My scan gauge said there were no codes. I did the key trick and got a P 1694 code. I hooked up a snap on solust to her and it read no codes. Thanks to @Haggar for that and I am going to bring back to you. I tried to connect with the PCM and it wont connect, then the ecm with the same results. Checked the codes again and nothing, no connection. Even reconnected the scan gauge and now it will not connect. I ruled out the lift pump by hot wiring it…

Newby here, I just bought a 99 dually with an apparent wiring issue! I replaced the entire fuse box and harness this weekend only to barely touch the positive and have smoke start rolling out the fuse box!:banghead: I opened up the fuse box to peek under it and found the burnt wire is from the J/C 1 port. What is it,and how do I fix it? The truck was running before this but had the parking lamp on engine shut off problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I run a fuel boss only setup, no check engine light but I get a P0130 (and its 1693 companion) code if I go looking. I need to get a smog check this week so I'm preparing for that. Is there anything I can jump, remove, connect that will make the computer think a electric pump is present? Otherwise ill strap the old junk electric pump back in there and plug it in just long enough to get smog don't. .

FeelerI know there are aftermarket coolers that bolt on in place of the NV5600 PTO cover. I'm thinking of fabricating an inexpensive/affordable alternative replacement cover, not for added cooling but more for you guys who are not as concerned about cooling but more interested in just simple mods such npt ports for temp sensor, fill and drain with a magnet. Seems silly to pull the shifter for overfilling & pulling the PTO cover to drain. Why not a just a few simple npt ports. A couple of questions:Anyone have a spare PTO cover or 2 laying around? Looking for a few covers for prototype template fabrication/testing.Most guys are overfilling the NV5600. How many quart…

I finally pulled the trigger. My injectors are stock original as far as I know with 165k on them. Been noticing the idle creeping up a bit more lately, 0% engine load at idle and doesn't feel as crisp as it used to. So, called @dieselautopowerand talked to Jacob, explained what I have, how I use the truck and future plans. After a great conversation placed an order for a set of 7x0.009 VCO injectors. Looking forward to installing them to see the difference.

The truck is pitching a fit now. Was driving in stop and go traffic on the freeway last weekend. The temp started to rise a lot, then suddenly pegged. The CEL was on and then the check gauges light came on. Had noticed a bit of bucking and surging and the revs started to go high one time. Finally cleared traffic and then could not go over 1,500 rpm in any gear. Read the code after getting home, this is what was listed: P0606 PCM processor fault P0238 Turbo boost sensor a ckt high input P0123 Throttle position sensor signal voltage too high P0118 Engine coolant temp sensor high P0113 IAT sensor 1 Ckt temp high P0216 Injector pump t…

Hey Guys, First post! I recently picked up an 02' Ram (in my signature) with the HO 245HP cummins and 6spd, it's got 100hp injectors and a 4" exhaust and no chip/tuner This last weekend, I went for a 250mile drive, and all seemed to be well and got back home sunday morning.Sunday afternoon, I was heading out for a drive and noticed some white smoke at idle, when warming up AND while warm while at idle. While under ACCELERATION/LOAD the truck will now put out more black smoke than usual. The truck was idling fine and nothing seemed out of sorts. Figured I'd pull a code so I quickly pulled over and checked and got P0234. I contacted the folks at BD diesel (they are local-i…