2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have play in the dana 70 when you move the yoke back and forth. It measures about an 1/8 inch worth of movement total is that to much. What is the max for the play.It regularly has metal on the dip stick in the cover. 243k on the clock.

Hey guys, I've had this issue since I bought the truck, but the IOD fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why. I do know that this fuse runs the OBDII port and several lights. I have checked all of the light connections and nothing seems to be shorting out. Can anyone throw out some more advice on why this fuse would be blowing?

As a new member just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I really can’t contribute much. Why? Well because I don’t know much. Even though I’ve had my 2001 since 2005 I have only done the simple maint stuff like change oil and filters. But that has changed after paying thru the nose for a bad install of fuel system. For last 3 years we’ve wintered in Yuma to get out of the wet of the northwest. The RV park that we stay at word travels fast. When our fuel system fell apart, the next day this guy I’ve talked to many times before walks up and asks what the problem was. At the time all I knew was truck wasn’t running and the garage was supposed to be calling…

Hi there,,,I'm a newbie,retired GM technician and frustrated Dodge lover. Recently I did the "easy" conversion from auto 47RE to a brand new NV4500 with upgraded Southbend clutch. My truck is a 2002 2500 4X4 SRW 24V with 110K miles,FASS150,RV275 injectors,Fleece Cheetah turbo,Banks air and intake. The conversion went relatively smooth besides some minor electrical glitches. I used all new hard parts along with a new PCM for a manual truck with my VIN programmed to it and Smarty programmed the ECM. It might be relevant to say that I had replaced my APPS unit ($Mopar) several months prior to doing the conversion because of failure codes,no pedal issues. Now,,,,,The conversi…

Hey so i got a 98.5 auto 24 valve an have been putting off for way to long the issue with my tc! Several months ago it stopped locking up and so I replaced the tc lockup solenoid on the valve body, and adjusted the bands while I was in there... didn't fix it!... so I took it to a dealer an had them hook up their code reader and they told me the lock up solenoid needed replaced and I had just replaced that so that made me think it was a wiring issue. And now lately whenever I turn sharp right the oil psi gauge on my dash goes to zero and the check gauges light goes on an then when I turn back straight it goes back to normal.... any similar issues? Fixes?

My 02 cummins 2500 4x4 with nv4500 has a rough idle or like a miss after the truck is warmed up. It smooths out if the AC kicks in or you let the clutch out just a little as if you were to roll ahead a bit. The truck has a new vp44, TPS, and FASS titanium pump. I've seen this problem posted on other forums but nobody had a fix to the rough idle. Anyone have this problem or have a fix for it? Any help would be greatful.

I drained my fuel from my fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets because I needed to fix leaky sump and mount Airdog pump in better spot. When I got ready to pure fuel back in noticed rather large beads of whatever (water, dirt, etc) mixed in with fuel. Finding micron sizing stuff on line, I ran fuel thru coffee filters (supposed to be around 20 microns). The fuel still didn’t look good to me. I then removed Airdog pump from truck and hung it in the fence and with long wires and a remote 12 volt switch and have been running fuel thru the Airdog filters. Airdog says one if its filters is 2 micron. I believe that filter is the one with a water drain valve. Fuel now looks …

Its been a few years since I did this and looking for a write up to refresh my memory, cant seem to find anything.

Hi guys. First post, been lurking for a while. My truck had the fuel gauge issue that reads empty when there's actually still a half tank. Anyway, last night I dropped my tank and pulled the unit out. Here are the issues I noticed. First, when I disconnected the lines, I noticed the vacuum nozzle had nothing going to it. Is that normal? Second, there is another nipple that is capped off. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Flo22/media/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v290/Flo22/Car%20Stuff/8844B518-D38B-4D60-98C3-4E74AD27EBB5_zpsdplbblrv.jpg" border=…

A couple of odd problems bore their ugly heads today... I took my truck to get the tires rotated at lunch. After they pulled it out of the bay and handed me the key I couldn't get it to start to save my life. A month or two ago it gave me a fit starting, I pulled the clutch safety switch, cleaned it up and put it back and I haven't had an issues since. So, in the parking lot I reached up and pulled it out, tied the wires together and plugged that back in, but it still didn't start. I could hear a single click at the starter each time I turned the key. So, I am guessing the starter is bad. The guy at Les Schwab crawled under the truck (which is pretty great beca…

While looking at different fuel line set ups noticed a "ported" banjo bolt for the VP 44. I'm in process of installing 1/2 inch line from tank to VP44 via Airdog 100. In my head (maybe incorrectly) that a bigger fuel line equals more fuel available. My truck is all stock except for fuel line. I'm all for more volume and less restriction to get fuel from point A to point B. (Question) But is going from a (port) hole of .137 of an inch to .185 of an inch really worth it for a stock set up?

well guys it turns out I got the vp fixed right> oh don't remember yea I'm that guy that had a vp issue when I first joined , well guys I got some arp studs and a manifold and a gasket? why because I replaced my tappet cover gasket and it seemed to be leaking still well then it seemed my head was leaking?? no not really I got the gasket off and it looks perfect well??maybe, I'm no expert but guys the bolts look almost new ? or is that a common issue for the bolts to look new because they are preserved ?? also sorry for my typing I'm on a mobile phone, and asweel do I need to ge tmy head machine I mean the intake could be cleaned and I'm sure the valves could be checked…

Hello guys I thought it was my tappet cover but I replaced and still leaks, is there a common spot for oil to leak causing it to get on VP 44 lined and it runs down the top of tappet cover down back and drips

I have been running stock since I damaged my original motor a few years ago. I have not kept up with the latest trends. I run around with a lot of weight as a welding truck, 10k the last time I checked. I am putting my 50hp injectors in this motor soon. I almost want to stay with just inj. but I dont know whats out there, I have read some on the smarty. I do pull heavy sometimes, 20-28k. Any info would be great, Thanks

(Confusing) Parts book says I don't have a roll over ball. But service manual says I do have one. Service manual says roll over ball is on top of fuel module. But actually holding the fuel module in my hand, I think the roll over ball is inside near bottom near "inlet" filter. Or at least something that looks like pic in service manual is near bottom of fuel module. It is white and about size of ping pong ball. Do roll over balls go bad? If so I would like to replace now as fuel tank is out of truck right now. BUT!!!! and here is part I don't understand...the fuel is being sucked by a oversize fuel line added in 2005, and the line that ha…

Finally got around to hiding my High Idle Switch. I figure I would share my idea may there are some folks that don't want a dash full of holes.

Truck started acting up last weekend and had codes for APPS. I reset the APPS, which is about a year old Timbo APPS, and ran fine. This evening coming home from work truck was cutting out(dead pedal) Cruise control wouldn't even work and kept kicking off on its own. Got it home thankfully and got codes of 0562, 0575, 0342, 0112, 1488, 0606, 1295, 0237. Have Edge JWA truck is 2001 with 6spd and 273k on clock. Am I lookin and a new ECM? Any suggestions or where to start.

I was looking on your site to find the fix for the fuel leak on the back of a 24v head, which I did find and it was very well written and I found the info I needed and I appreciate the excellent write up. One thing I do not understand is the fuel line going to the back of the head. Please excuse my ignorance but what exactly is the purpose for that line? I'm sure you cant block it off but I was curious about what its purpose is.

Was out doing some running around this morning and had to jump out in to some traffic and get down on the right pedal. I was thinking I had a stock truck but happened to look in right rearview mirror and noticed some (not a lot) of black smoke. Is this normal on a stock truck or is that an indication that there is a programmer on the truck? Also, once I was in the flow of traffic I noticed the MIL was on. I pulled the code when I got to work and it's a P0234 which I read could be MAP sensor, stuck WG or an actual overboost condition caused by a programmer. Is there a way for me to know if there is a programmer installed? Also, I called Dodge to price a MA…

I NEEDS ONE!!!!!!! so does everyone else!