2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

First off, Merry Christmas, second off I would like to say thank you to TFAORO for helping me get the truck running while off grid in -10 degrees Fahrenheit I had a 10 mile ride on a wheeler just to get a form of cell reception then for Tyler to respond quickly was awesome . So long short this is her first winter back on road 99 24 valve 5.9 4x4 auto with 320k on the clock basic mods and hybrid turbo, full frame off restoration... because of that I'm not ruling anything out yet. The facts Outside temp was -10 dropping to -14f blowing 20mph Truck was plugged in on generator power for 6 hours tested for good voltage to find it present...…

I have been dealing with brake and ABS lights on all the time from key on to key off. I have also been suffering from "irregular" / "unpredictible" pedal feel. Sometimes pedal feels fine other times it goes to the floor. Braking power is still there however. So I got a hair up my butt today and started probing wires. Tested the rear ABS sensor, 1.8 k resistance, which is within spec for the sensor. While I was under there I unplugged the Sensor on the proportioning valve and BAM no more lights. So what does that sensor do? and why does the ABS computer throw a hissy fit when it is plugged in? I am assuming it is tellin…

Here is a good one I have been fighting, truck shuts off like you turned the key off while driving but wait a few seconds and it starts right back up, but if you try to just start it back upwithout waiting it will just crank. No codes, doesn't crank like it ran out of fuel just starts back up. Could it be a ground? New vp44, App, alternator. Yesterday day on a 300 mile trip it did it more often like something had to cool down. I'm thinking maybe computer?

Its not uncommon to read threads/posts where members are unaware of why their u-joint angles must be set correctly otherwise driveline vibrations will be a problem. I just ran across this 2 minute youtube video which I think does a very good but yet simple job of explaining whats going on. Maybe this will help some people out understanding whats going on under their truck. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5aCK4Bob6a0

Hey guys, I wanted to give you a heads up that we have created a Part Number Lookup tool in the new Articles. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/ You can find a couple of different years and configurations in the above link. You can open up the year / model needed and use the drop down menu to jump around or use the bookmarks tool on the main page to jump around. We will add more documents as we get them, but most parts should span the years we have.

Are there Tech articles on the PDC? If so I haven't found them. I seem to be having power/ground issues there (PDC) If I turn on headlamps the truck shuts down. Will restart if switch is off. Also have no heater blower at same time. Engine code is no ECM communication. Seems to either be a power interruption or most probably a ground issue? Any ideas on where to start. the bottom of the PDC is difficult to get to!

Hello all. Trucks a 2001 5spd/4x4. I had what seemed to be a failing lift pump so I installed a new FASS 150 and straw kit. My pump barely makes noise when I turn the key, sometimes my gauge goes to 2 or 3 psi other times 6 or 7. It seems like the pump is not getting the power it requires. I was told my ECM could be problematic. Truck seems to run fine I occasionally get a spike in my volt meter triggering "check gauges" but wouldn't that be a PCM issue? Any direction is greatly appreciated, I have searched but am nervous to shell out for am ECM if it's something else.

Hey Guys, So I guess this is just poetic justice. I installed my ARP stud kit Wednesday Night, and logged about 200 miles since installation. I originally planned to re torque everything and re check valve lash sunday. Unfortunatley disaster struck this afternoon and I am defeated. Firstly, I haven't beat on the truck very much. I left the Boost defuel on the quad set to 45 PSI. I left a stop sign on my way home from work today, and according to the data log I hit 37PSI of boost. I came to a stop and had a #2 cylinder miss, and White steam from the exhaust. I limped the truck a half mile back to my office, and now I sit here waiting for…

Looking for some fittings today on internet... 2 questions... 1. Any source for a 1/2 inch, 90 degree push lock fitting? Can't seem to find one. (2 wheel drive with a sump is getting pretty low to ground, try to keep line up much as possible) 2. Very many people use hose clamps on your push lock fittings? http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-2-Fuel-Line-Fuel-Pressure-T-Fitting-Adapter.aspx

I've looked up all I could about this, but I really need some quick info. I replaced my fuel line from the filter to the VP44 with an upgraded fuel line. After the install, I tried bleeding the lines by cracking the number 1, 3, and 4 injector connections. I got fuel to the number 3 and 4 lines after a couple of bumps of the key, but number 1 won't bleed fuel no matter how many times I try. The truck won't start. Could I be doing something wrong, or is this a sign of a bad VP44? Any suggestions?

01 6 speed No power, no smoke at tail pipe New fuel filter, brand new lift pump 15 psi at idle, no check engine lights or codes

Need to change the tranny fluid. Looked already but couldn't find detailed instructions. I am sure many of you have done this many times. Sounds like many of you fill from the top? Drain from a PTO bolt? How many quarts? What type of fluid? Any info would be great. Thanks guys.

4wd seems to make a funny noise if i get going beyond 55mph. Like I'm riding on the rumble strip. Anything else, runs just fine. You may recall i had to repair the shaft got a used one then redid the u joints on that. Could it be out of balance?

I want to go to 3rd gen brakes on my truck. I've gotten pretty good at rebuild calipers. Wondering about getting some used calipers for the price of core charge.

Hey everyone, Im new here and i have been having a problem with my 2001. I get a "grinding" noise from the transmission area that sounds like you are driving over a rumble strip. i can't figure it out what the problem is. I have tried pulling the relay for the trans out, removing the alternator fuse, and wrapping the ground wire in foil. This happens either I'm driving around town or on the highway. It does it under light acceleration but not under heavy acceleration. But it keeps making the sound when just coasting along or light pressure on the gas. I can only make it stop if I shift down to 1st and let my truck engine brake to a stop. Any suggestion would be great

All Please forgive me if this is a duplicate or stated somewhere already. I drove home about 3 hours last night and as I pulled into the driveway my check engine light came on. I had my High Idle Kit in MPG mode during the entire drive and did not notice anything out of the norm. This evening I pulled the codes and found P0113 and P1693. After work (cold engine as I didnt drive it today) I noticed with the High Idle Kit in the "OFF" position my Intake Air temp was showing -40* on my ScanGuageII (temp outside around 60*F). The truck also went into 3 cylinder mode shortly after. Would this be a bad IA sensor or something more complex? Any help is greatly …

Still have my fuel system apart. Fuel tank is on 2001 long bed and has chaff/rub marks where the metal straps makes contact. Question...What is OEM? Is there supposed to be anything in between the metal straps and plastic tank? Thanks

I have a couple of issues with my 1999 24v that's been bugging me. 1. Lately it's been getting cold here in New Mexico and I noticed that my grid heater doesn't cycle until the engine has been started. The wait to start light never comes on anymore, not even for a split second, and my lift pump no longer does the 1-2 second prime before engine start. Is it a bad ECM? 2. My truck is a 5 speed nv4500, when I first picked it up I used to be able to take off from a dead stop in second gear just fine, plenty of torque to get it to move even starting on an incline. Now I have to start off in first gear slowly, it feels like it's hesitating/bogging down. I can't ev…

I just want to see if I can clear the air up a bit on a few things and talk Cummins related additives From what I understood, in the past Cummins had never officially endorsed a specific additive nor advised using one. I believe they stated that as long as you were using adequate fuel, there was no need, unless you needed protection from gelling or worried there was a lot of water in the fuel for some reason. A lot of people seemed to think that Cummins endorsed stanadyne, but from what I've read, it seems that it was a misunderstanding. A person closely related or that worked for Cummins said that he really liked stanadyne or said some great things about it a…

Hey guys, looking to get a new, or at least longer, fuel return line for my fuel module. I installed Vulcan's drawstraw 5 that includes modifying my existing fuel modules so my fuel return from the FASS and VP/INJ all go back into the fuel basket. I had to cut out a couple of the old stock lines to eliminate some unnecessary parts, but now it's extra short and I think may be causing my 'hard start' issue. Problem is, it seems that when my fuel level gets below a 1/2 tank, I start having issues similar to having a leak in the return line, but I've fixed all those and problem is still there. So this is my last ditch attempt to fix this before I just say screw …