2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I have an 02 dodge 3500 6 speed and a few months back my ecm went bad and the one I replaced it with is out of an automatic truck... truck runs as it should but my question is if I put a programmer (smarty) on it will it work as it should or am I going to fry my ecm thanks in advance for any helpful info

At 75 mph my engine will cut out like it’s hit a governer or lost fuel pressure but comes back then cuts out and comes back and so on anyone have any ideas? Also fuel pressure on my edge does not cut out stays at the same psi when problem is occuring new fuel filters new o rings in air-dog 165 new check valve in vp44 and clean air filter

Radiator flush time for me. Just throwing this pic out. Had a heck of time searching to find exactly what I needed and how much. What do you think? Helpful or not or correct or wrong?

I have searched until I am blue in the face to no avail. I have a 2001 24 valve with a Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner installed. At engine operating temperature the coolant temperature sensor (located right next to the thermostat housing) is reading about 1,125 ohms of resistance which is about 190F. This level of resistance matches the coolant temperature. The problem is the ECT on the Quadzilla reads 160. Disconnecting the two wire lead at the sensor seems only to affect the gauge on the dashboard and not what the Quadzilla is showing. Where is the ECM or PCM pulling the ECT of 160 from? It does not appear to me it is from the sensor located at the therm…

Good Morning! A few weeks ago I was lucky enough to find a 2001 Dodge 2500 manual 4wd long bed with 62K original miles. I drove it down from Montana to New Mexico, which I had the brake lines replaced pretty much immediately because there was a slight leak. I was driving to work and then all of a sudden I lost power, which caused the truck to stall out in the middle of the road. It turned out to be a bad lift pump, which I replaced with the Titanium Series Fass95 only to find out the Vp44 went with it. The shop I had originally had the truck brought to drained both 10 year old batteries accidentally and for some reason when they recharged them one of the batte…

So...need honest answers. What's the worst case scenario if a rear mounting bracket isn't used for the vp44. I've heard of guys who had 200plus or more not notice until the vp44 change. I honestly dont feel like pulling the steering pump and try to easy out a broken bolt out of the block. Had anyone heard of anything go catastrophically wrong if there is no rear mount?

100HP DAP Injectors with aftermarket Bodies for 98-02 match flowed VOC? I Have a set of these and My Stockers have 147 on them, thinking of swapping these in, when I do the Valve lap tune up. I also have a HP VP44 , and was wondering if I should give it a try against my stock VP44, (was wondering if that would bode well with the 100HP injectors.) I thought maybe this would keep me from needing a tuner. My Turbo is the HX35 Let me know what you guys think

Hi. I changed the oil and fuel filter in my 2001 Dodge 24v Cummins, it would crank but wouldnt start after changing the fuel filter. I tried bleeding any air out from the bleeder valve and I cracked the lines to see if there was any air. I got a little air out of the bleeder valve but no air out of the lines. I got it started on staring fluid. Drove it for 2 days ran/started fine after that. Third day I go out to start it to go to work and it would just crank. So I started looking at the truck and I found that the sending unit and the plug were bad, replaced both of them now the truck will run fine in 1,2,3 gear. But once I'm in 4th and 5th gear at about 1500rpm the truck…

P1697, P1694 and P1698 no bus codes. No gauges working, most dash lights on, truck is running fine. 01 Dodge Cummins 5.9 turbo with Edge Juice chip installed a year ago...any suggestions where to start??? I can't afford a ton at a mechanic.

So my brother is about to buy a new lift pump for his truck. He has 150hp injection edge ez and wants a little bigger turbo. Should he get a 95 of 165. Fass or airdog. Any help or suggestions is appreciated!

@IBMobile Got my lockup switch installed today. Hit momentary switch and converter locks. Hit it again converter unlocks. Hit brake it unlocks. I used a toggle switch instead of a dimmer switch. When i flip the toggle it locks without pressing the momentary switch and brakes do not unlock converter. Only did a short drive to check operation but seems to work fine. Thanks for the write up.

After testing and conferring the consensus is my truck needs a new torque convertor. The truck is used 95% of the time towing a 8,000+ pound 5th wheel and the transmission is basically stock. Which brand is good and which type, stock or billet? Should it be a single or triple disk? High or low stall speed? Any thing else you can think of.

It's set at 85. Was going to set cruise at 90 pedal is completely dead. It will accelerate passed 85 then pedal dies I do have my seatbelt on.

I really don’t know anything About tuning on the iQuad v2 or and tuning in general does anyone know how to tunes these things with really good power but no smoke???

So two times now in the past two days my truck has taken 5 or 6 seconds to start. On a cold start it starts right up. It seems that if I shut it off and wait 20 or 30 minutes is when the hard start occurs. If it sits for 4 or 5 hours again it's fine. If I shut it down and instantly restart it it's fine. No obvious leaks no smell of diesel fuel. I have a wait to start light and I can hear the lift pump turn on. No codes. Any ideas? Should have looked at the other thread first.

When looking up the tightening specification for installing the bolts that hold the flywheel or drive plate to the crankshaft I found two different values. In the engine section under "Crankshaft Oil Seal - Rear" the tightening torque given is 101 ft. lbs. In the "Automatic Transmission 47RE- Torque Specifications" chart the number given is 55 ft. lbs. One of these is a mistake; which one is right?

So here’s the project: 1998.5 24v: ECM, PCM, engine harness, pcm harness, engine bay harness, and gauge cluster all 1998.5 from same truck. The cab/ dash harness is a 2001 gasser. My gauges power up fine, shows rpms but nothing else. Gauges appear to pass self test. Codes 920, 921. DOES NOT give me a NO BUS... I installed my brothers 1999 pcm and no change, took my gauges and pcm to his truck: my pcm works and his gauges work in his truck, my pcm and my gauges work in his truck. His pcm and my gauges work in his truck.... So: I feel that the 2001 dash harness has different wiring than the 1998.5.... also my head lights don’t work properly. …

Any ideas? Truck sat for a month, batteries disconnected. The fuel tank was topped off before it was shut down, and the darn thing seemed to be running fine. Return after a month down South, charged batteries, reconnected them, attempt to start. No wait to start light. Electric lift pump ran for maybe a minute, not much fuel pressure. Bump starter, wait for fuel pressure...nothing. Crank engine, fired once and disengaged starter but did not run. No check engine light. Tried several times, but now not getting any fuel pressure and no fire from engine. Finally dragged out my DRB III (its the only tool that can reliably read these early 1998.5's) and can see message: …

I’m thinking I’d like a lockup switch but I also want the option of having fully factory operation for when my wife or some other unsuspecting person drives my truck. I’m thinking factory/unlocked/locked. Is it possible? How would one go about wiring that up? Reason I want a switch is my triple disk converter seems to lockup to early for my engine. (All stock engine/tuning with exception to trans goodies from dynamic and the triple disk TC) It severely barks the turbo sometimes if I’m into the throttle enough or if I’m really light on the pedal it will actually lock and then immediately unlock almost as if it quickly realizes it’s too soon. This h…

Solder...found a old spool from Tandy projects. Probably 60"s or 70's. Unknown percentage of mixture. 1st QUESTION...Any certain type of solder for battery cables? 2nd got these things in pic that are 2 ought in size. Are these in pick or do I actually need the type that circle the battery post? And already picked up "military" type battery posts. Any help Thanks