2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I finally got my truck to start and drove it last night after a year of sitting since last August I've already replaced the vp44,intank pump, fuel filler, tps and tonight went to start it started fine had no throttle and fuel level gauge. I had only had one code and it was a 122 code. these are all the codes that randomly appeared. I'm extremely mad it was literally doing fine last night and over whellemed with all these if someone could please help me out it wound be appreciated P 0500 @pull fuse 4 and 7 P 0463 @ high voltage to fuel pump P 1693 @ Ecu 121 Excelerator position sensor APPs voltage to low 1693 P 0380 @ Intake air …

I know this should start a interesting debate but I’m curious everybody’s opinion.... I want to change the oil in my Cummins turbo, curious what brands you guys recommend, previous owner ran Rotella 15 W 40 and change the oil every 7 to 10,000 miles, he also ran a quart of Lucas at every oil change, my question is what are you guys thoughts about running a full synthetic and which brand?

I’m leaking fuel from a plastic line connected below and to the right of the fuel filter. I took out fuel filter but can only get one hand by the leak. I’ve tried getting at it from underneath and can’t. I took the wheel well plastic guard off and there is no room. My only option that I see is cutting the metal out of the wheel well big enough to get my hands at the problem. Would there be an access through the fire wall I don’t see. I think I put my fuel gauge in the wrong place because it aways maxes out at thirty and never goes lower. Besides the fuel leak I’m worried about my injector pump because my truck aways started right away and now I have to crank it multiple t…

I have an automatic trans so what is the best way to hold the engine from spinning while loosening bolts on the dampner? Changing this weekend since the rubber is supposed to be even, flush to the steel. Mine is mushed out all around and wobbles when running.

Hi everyone, I need some help, I have a 2001 dodge 24v and I bought the Denso diode pack from the site store to replace the diode in mine. I knew I had a Denso so I bought it. However, I didn't know there were different models. Can I just modify my alternator body to fit the new diode pack? All the holes line up except where the lead comes out of the alternator. Or is there something possibly different between the 2 diode packs? The only real difference is where the lead comes out. The original it comes out of the side. Where the new one comes out of the back. here you can see the new one on top with the lead pointing up and the bottom…

Denso Alternator Modification I'm doing this write-up in case anyone runs into the problem I did and they don't want to buy a new or find another style alternator. After I bought the diode replacement and tried to install it I realized that it was slightly different from mine. Note: The new lead is smaller in diameter and shorter than the old lead. Here is a link on how to take the alternator apart written by IBMobile. If yours is like mine and the lead comes off the side the B+ post nut sizes will be a 13mm but the steps will be the same. Tools required for modification: * Small cut off wheel or Air saw * Ball-peen h…

I have a 2001 2500 4x4auto. I recently changed the entire body which was rotted to gas truck body. Went fairly well until I started truck and found out that power steering pump shaft broke? And hydroboost went as well. Fixed both and can steer and stop but now tryed to drive it and when u shift out of park it basically jumps into R or D depends on what u select,seems like brakes almost don't want to hold truck back,try to accelerate and truck moves then slows down then shifts then revs then shifts and 40 is highest it will go will Erving high?please help truck drove beautifully before changing bodies. I'm new to site so please excuse the way I described this problem,thank…

I have a no start a lot of times if I jump in a turn the key on. If I wait for all the dings on the dash it starts every time. Is this normal? I has been like this for a long time.

Ok, so pretty confused right now and hoping for clarification. Btw it's a bit of a read... What happened, lost control of o/d switch/ could not disengage but trans acted normal, where I am at we have had some flooding so on my way to work in the dark I missed some high water around a bend and went through it at speed no deeper than the axles not even ten miles up the road o/d hunting began got to work a few miles down the road and called the builder of the transmission, this trans has maybe 20k on it and is still under warranty. He told me to come straight there after work finished work heading over to him trans acted normal again. My immediate thought…

99 ats auto , ddrp on frame w/ relay, mechanical fuel press , boost , egt , trans temp gauges ,75 hp injectors ,usually edge ez , but have a so3 also . So been letting the truck set since beginning of the year , while out of state , with overhead camper on , in the CA Sierras thru po1689 , po1698 , po 380 , and po382, had a code reader , Turbo bark , shut down ,on restart erratic idle wont gain rpms I guess in limp mode , long way from home no cell service , walked to a phone and called Cummins pacific in West Sac , Towed it there ,I had dealt with them years earlier with a cracked 53 block and buy parts there , only place that came to mind that I trust …

This was a very heated and debated topic which I'm will to bring back up and report. I'm at 68k miles on the fluid. I've ran for 2 or 3 winters now and have zero issues shifting. Fluid operated greatly in temperature to -35*F and zero issues. I just checked the fluid level and color and it still like it was poured in from the bucket. Clear amber color and discoloring yet. By early summer I'll have 100k miles on this fluid and will check again on the color I might push past the 100k mark if the color is still bright and clear. Now that I'm travelling 250 miles every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday hauling @MoparMom to Dialysis treatments in Ontario, OR I've ha…

Happen to be walking by the truck parked in the shop and noticed a small puddle of green coolant. It where its at which is strange. Back at the bellhousing. I know the only freeze plug back there is the block freeze plug but as far as I can see right now there is no coolant coming from that freeze plug but I fear the worst.... Possible head gasket.

Hi folks, I have a 1998.5 24 valve Cummins 2500 RAM. I have inspected the diff covers and their respective tags. I think I have Dana 60 front and rear diffs. I am not 100% sure though. Front diff cover reads Dana 43600 3 007 Rev Q. 05 30 94. The front diff tag reads 52070148 610719 1 3.54 Yet in my 1998 Factory service manual the axle options are: 216 And 248 RBI Axles (is this 1500 half ton?) 248 and 267 RBI Axles (is this 2500 3/4 ton) 286 RBI Axle. (s this posi-locking rear type?) 9 1/4" Rear axle. (is this 3500 1 Ton size?) How can I determine which ones I have? My guesses are in brackets. Thanks, Keith

I got to say Thank You to @dripley ... He's taught me something today which I've got to pass along to all you. The 2002 Dodge Ram truck have only a 1 wire oil pressure sensor. The wiring diagram is incorrect for the 2002 trucks and does NOT have the Orange or the Black/Light Blue wires. Now looking at the 2001 and 2000 model years are 3 wire oil pressure sensors. I've even gone down to my truck and checked and sure enough only one wire the black/light grey.

Vp44 guys. Im doing alot of work on my truck, cutting weight etc...my plan is to completely gut the cab, pull everything out and leave just the column, seats, shifter, and guages...gonna use my tablet/quadzilla for tach and speedo. My question is, Is there anything in the cab that is a "must have" to complete circuits or anything that if removed would cause the truck not to run? Besides the obvious **** like ignition wires. Id also be open to wiring a push button start. Any info would be much appreciated.

Ok so this problem just started but when I’m at about 55mph the rpms are usually 1800 but then they drop to about 1400 an jump right back in a spot second, no idea what’s going on

I've been starting the engine with the grid heaters disconnected for 6 weeks with morning temps ranging from 28°-55°F with just a little white smoke and a loping idle for about 30 seconds. This afternoon, after my wife drove it this morning, the check engine light was on. I scanned the system with an OBD code reader and fond this, P1291 No temp rise from intake heaters. Monitor & Set Conditions Temperature rise from intake air heaters is monitored for first 15 seconds of engine operation. DTC may be stored if initial Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor reading is 0-66°F (-17.8 to 18.8°C), Battery Temperature Sensor (BTS) and IAT sensor are within 10°F of …

Morning guys and gals, over the weekend my brother and I put a new head gasket and arp studs on my truck everything went smooth while I was bleeding the cooling system I noticed that a screeching sound coming from the drivers side of the the engine couldn’t really pin point the noise. Double checked over head and it was good. Did some searching on the forum and found another member that posted a video of the same issue after new injectors but never posted a fix. Also have the hinkling my vp is on its way out, truck cranks a good bit before it fires and it’s been getting worse over the past few weeks, raptor took a dump on me about a month ago on a trip and I …

Hi everyone Ive got a list of parts im installing when they arrive from over the pond. The parts ive ordered are: Shift kit tfod Rear band anchor Front band anchor Band strut Superhold billet servo piston Billet accumulator piston kit GM solenoid upgrade kit including transducer. Any tips on the install mainly the shift kit Thanks

Hi folks I own a 1998.5 24 valve 2500. I am currently replacing the stock Carter fuel lift pump, (Right rear side of block) with an equivalent new replacement. This is a preventative maintenance measure as pump on there now is seven years old and making 8 psi under full load. I an interested to see what pressure a new pump will make. New pump is just being bolted down now. Is it ok to install this dry? Will it prime itself once I hook everything up and turn on the power? I know about the upgrades for these lift pumps. I do plan to upgrade to a more reliable pump with better flow rate, in the future. For now just going with stock until I decide on an upgrade s…